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Hi James!......it is indeed possible to fit a dump valve to the S-Coupe Turbo!.

The easiest way is to find a point low enough on the alloy up-pipe where you can sit a Bailey DV26 dump valve..... (no other model if you want to vent to atmosphere & get the `whoosh`).....& still close the bonnet. Now drill a hole just smaller than the i.d. of the valve, clear out all metal filings/swarf & either weld or (using plumbers` epoxy putty) bond the unit in position.

Use small-bore vacuum hose to connect the dump valve to the small hose linking your fuel-pressure regulator with the intake manifold assembly.......you`ll need a `T` piece to do this, which you can buy from a shop selling pumps & filters for aquariums.

Click the car name above my avatar (aircraft pic.) to see `click-to-enlarge` pix of my intercooled setup.......I used a re-circulating DV 30, with the vented boost going back into the intake tract for stealth purposes (it`s near silent)!.
Bailey dump valves are available here :-
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/images/locator/main_red1.jpg

You may be interested in The U.K. Hyundai Coupe Club Forums :-
http://p205.ezboard.com/bukhcsmessageboard

Maybe talk with you there!
Nick.
:)

Intercooler Piping.
Briefly you first have to make brackets to lean the top of the radiator back 2.5"...so the piping can go round each side of it.

The alloy up-pipe is then cut off 2" below where you`ve fitted the dump valve & the part below the cut removed from the turbo.

For the piping to & from the intercooler I used 45mm. i.d. SFS silicone piping with 90 degree reducers at the turbo outlet & the connection to the alloy up-pipe & 135 degree bends to go around the rad. A cheaper option would be to get an exhaust shop to make your pipes in stainless & just use silicone for the joiners & reducers.

Basically, the pipework runs from the turbo outlet, around the left side of the rad. (as you face the car) & onto the intercooler. Boost then goes through the i.c. & goes through pipework around the right side of the rad. & up into where you cut the factory alloy up-pipe.

All this work (including mounting the i.c.) is quite difficult & very time-consuming, as due to snags, you end up designing it as you go along! (a few days off work could be handy!).

My i.c. came off a `93 Mitsu. Shogun 4x4 & had handy top inlet/outlets. The cost of the i.c., piping, joiners & clips alone was about £300.


[Edited by VALKYRIE YB70 on Oct 1, 2004 7:56 PM]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so y can i only use that dump valve? does it hav to be just that one? can u get me pics off urs that are close uop?
 

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Hi again!.....because of our car`s induction set-up, a normal dump valve will cause the engine to bog down pig-rich & stall/backfire when it operates. A re-cycling valve like mine solves that problem completely = (DV30).
However, because so many people with MAF-equipped cars wanted to have the `whoosh` sound, Bailey produced the DV26.......these are the only dump valves available in the U.K. which will work with our cars.

A close-up pic. won`t show much more than a magnifying glass......you now have all the info. you need!.

Nick.
 
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