[turboxl]

Hey guys. Its been a while between posts but ive been busy studying for my final exams. Just recently however ive noticed that my head deck, well i believe it to be the face plate, has screwed up. It still works, but when i am driving it will turn itself up to full volume... distortion city... the stuff that blown speakers are made of i guess... also, it turns itself on when im not around and as such has caused 3 flat batteries in the last week. I think, emphasis on think, that it could be that the "up volume" button is stuck in as when i press it it does not click like all the other buttons. Also, it is very sensitive so when i give it the most delicate of touches, it turns up... If not this, what else do you guys think it could be? and if you guys think thats the problem, is it safe to take my face plate apart and try fix it or will i most likely end up screwing it to the point of no return?
Cheers in advance, Anand.

 

[LilTimmy]

Sounds like you may be buying a new H/U or sending that one in for warrenty. IT sounds messed up maybe take it to a local stereo shop to look at it but it sounds internal. As far as it turning on by itself, if it is wired properly it should not be able to turn itself on unless the key is in accessory or ingnition. Unless there is a short int he wireing or int eh H/U. My friend's mom has a sunfire and the stock deck goes reall loud like that too but we are just going to replace it. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

 

[187sks]

Problem #1 - improper wiring or short inside of deck. It is correct that it should be impossible for it to turn on with the key off. This is your big problem. If your wiring is right the short could explain the volume issue as well. If it's wired properly your deck is screwed.

Problem #2 - volume button may be stuck. I wouldn't worry about it unless you sort out problem #1 and it was a wiring problem. As long as you're handy you may be able to disassemble your face plate and repair a button. That depends on how the face plate is put together.

 

[LilTimmy]

Good call Don

 

[turboxl]

yea, call it inexperience at the time, but i wired the H/U directly to the battery and so it can be on when the key is out. This is mainly cos i didnt no how to wire it so that the key needs to be in. However, I believe that my remote wires safeguard against constant drain while the car is off, unless the H/U "magically" turns itself on... As there is no warranty, if worst come to worst, i shall dismantle it but only after ive saved for a new one (just in case).

 

[187sks]

Well, fix your wiring and it will solve the biggest problem you have. Then gently try disassembling the stereo face. If it has little screws take them out and see if you can get it apart easily. If you start forcing things be prepared to buy a new deck. Depending on the kind of buttons used it may not be repairable even if you find the problem. Good luck.

 

[turboxl]

thanks for the advice man. Can ya sorta gimmie some advice on where to wire it so that it cannot run without the key? Cheers heaps, Anand

 

[187sks]

Well, the best way is to buy a test light, should be around $10, then find a wire around the stereo that is hot with the key on and not when the key's off. There was one originally running to your stock stereo so it should be just laying in there somewhere. I assume the stock connector has been chopped off, right? If you can't find a wire there then look in your fuse panel and find an open spot. Verify that it is only hot with the key in the on position, and wire it to there.

 

[turboxl]

ahh thanks man. I shall attempt to do that when i next get some free time. Lastly, it might sound like a stupid question, but what wire am i running to the "hot wire", is it the one that currently runs from h/u to battery? Also, what kind of wiring should i use? Cos i got some of that thick red wire (not sure of GA) left over from puttin in the second amp. Or is the wiring used to power splits sufficient? Cheers, Anand

 

[187sks]

You will need to have a small constant hot for keeping your station presets and clock time. Then you need to connect the one you have currently running from the battery to the ignition hot. As long as the wire you're using to provide power is the same size as the short wire provided for your stereo plug or larger you will be okay. It doesn't need to be very thick as it doesn't draw much current.

This is the standard for aftermarket stereo wiring. If your stereo's wiring harness does not follow this you'll have to look in your book or look it up on the internet. Note that this does not apply to factory car wiring, that varies by make and model.:

Red- ignition switched power
Yellow- constant power
Black- ground
Blue- Power lead (amp/antenna turn on)

Green- Left rear +
Green/black- Left rear -
White- Left front +
White/black- Left front -
Gray- Right front +
Gray/black- Right front -
Purple- Rightrear +
Purple/black- Right rear -

 

[turboxl]

Thanks man! That info is really helpful! Like i said before ill give it a shot after my exams.
Cheers, Anand