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2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've tried looking for any recommendations on site in regards to oil change and servicing in regards to first time owning an older Hyundai after my own experiences. I own a Lantra J2 series Sportswagon that had a rough life. Been used as a surfer grom mobile, towed a dual axle caravan through 3 states and was on the higher mileage side of the odometer. Being a Beta I engine it has HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters for the uninitiated 'new to Hyundai/older model' owners) they were noisy cold and would return to being noisy once they had fully warmed up and oil pressure had dropped. I guessed that this engine had never been flushed in it's life and a lot of laminated gunk and carbon was living in the oil journals, hydraulics and the piston rings. I have my own oil flush technique that I've been using to help silence hydraulics and restore some compression from carboned up piston rings and grooves. I am not saying that this method is recommended but every car I've serviced has benefited from an oil flush. As follows -

- drain oil and remove filter, back drain as much oil from the used filter as possible and reinstall the used filter*
*the flush oil will already be filled with contaminants/deposits and using a new filter will defeat the end outcome
  • add 2.5 litres of a cheaper grade oil than you intend to use for the oil change plus 0.5 litres of diesel fuel (engine oil capacity is approx 3.5 litres and filling to capacity will not impact the end result)
  • now for the part that gets everyone fired up: drive it normally for a day. don't beat on it, don't let it sit idling for 10 minutes, just drive it normally. if the hydraulics have been rattling in the head, the flush oil should purge the build up in the lash adjusters and within 10 minutes the noise should be all but gone. the extended driving will work it's way through the piston rings and get them expanding and return some compression depending on how far it's gone. leave it overnight.
  • next morning, start the engine and let it idle up to operating temperature so the oil will fully drain, perform your regular oil change with a fresh oil and a new filter** take note on the condition of the flush oil. if you get a mission success, it will be almost jet black. engine oil quality will be extended through to the next service interval

**the Beta I engine uses a Z79 oil filter : I have upgraded my filter to a Z148A that is a larger capacity filter. increased engine oil capacity (a good thing - more oil, longer service life) and bigger internal oil filtration surface (more filtration = improved protection) I always pre-fill my filters before installing to prevent oil cavitation and have oil ready to go straight through the oil pump. some people say not to due to the risk of fine metal debris in new filters not being caught in the filter from start up, but if the cheap ass filters you are buying are that badly made you already have problems... new oil capacity will be closer to 3.65 litres (this is factoring in priming the oil filter before installation) not much of an increase, but everything helps

Now for Beta II and why first time owning one this is kind of critical. It has a VVT solenoid that relies on oil pressure to actuate the cam timing. the Beta II head isn't hydraulic (no lash adjusters) but there are oil flow critical valvetrain components that will be affected by poor servicing. and a hidden catch that took me by surprise...

below the thermostat manifold on the rear of the head, there is a cap with a 14mm bolt head on it. underneath this cap there is a small stainless steel strainer that feeds through to the hydraulic cam actuator on the end of the exhaust cam. this strainer must be clean for the actuator to get proper oil supply and protection from possible debris. it isn't difficult to remove but there is a crush washer under the cap that you will need to make sure you don't lose during removal/installation. if you are going to do the above oil flush, remove, clean and reinstall this strainer before using the above steps. I was not aware of this strainer and when I stumbled upon it purely by chance during an online search, it made a big difference to the outcome. I would also consider removing the VVT solenoid and manually cleaning it (BEWARE - some of these solenoids can come apart and end up locked into the head, it is a task to remove one if it has jammed and may end up requiring brute force to extract it and result in the solenoid getting destroyed. you have been warned, I've been through this myself and it was the worst job ever. it should only take 5 minutes - it resulted in 4 hours of shredding the solenoid body to get it out of the head and then attempting to extract all metal chaff that had dropped into the VVT recess)

my son inherited a 2002 XD Elantra and I doubt this strainer had ever seen the outside of the head -

Fluid Finger Wood Thumb Gas

yes, there is a mesh strainer under that mess...

Automotive tire Automotive exterior Rim Hood Automotive wheel system

attacked it with everything - oven cleaner, carb cleaner, dropped it in my ultrasonic bath for 10 minutes...

Sky Wood Gesture Finger Thumb

and now my clean (but blurry) mesh strainer (y)

*there is an added bonus on this. the Elantra had been sitting for 18 months before being put back on the road. in the meantime the oil relief valve had frozen up, preventing full oil flow. on it's first outing the oil light went on and the engine made the dreaded 'knock of death' before stalling. I had checked the oil prior to driving it and it 'looked' fine - oil was clean enough and at full capacity. luckily there was no immediate damage and I then went on to do the full oil flush and change using a Z148A filter. the VVT function began to slowly improve (it was noisy prior to the flush and made a distinctive 'chattering' noise off and on throttle)
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