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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've got a '96 red 4 door Hyundai (E)Lantra, 1.8l engine, GLS model with a few electric options. It's the one with no grille and the elliptical styling on the bonnet/front bumper.

Let's pretend this car looks pretty much like a boring, slightly out of date family car.

I feel it lacks in performance a bit. Assuming there's nothing actually wrong with the engine/transmission that should be fixed, what minimal sorts of performance enhancements can I do to it without destroying my insurability to get a few extra hp out of it? Just a few hp, note... Further, what are the easiest things to do? Like machining heads, extractors, etc.

The other thing, is there a bumper bar replacement which contains a grille? The next model Lantra had a small black grille on it, and I've looked it over, it can't be retrofitted on the '96 model because they also restyled the headlights and the side guards slightly to change the look some more. Is there any way of getting a grille onto the 96? It looks dated.

Cheers,
Sean
 

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you can replace your front bumper and headlights with 99, as far as performance, is it a standard or automatic? I converted mine to a standard and ill tell you what it was a big diffrence, now I have CAI, and a resistor for my AIS which also helped and my exhaust has been revamped I now have one muffler instead of 2 and NO resonator, and a high flow CAT
 

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what do you mean replace your bumper and lights with a 99? How? is it bolt on? :??:
 

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96-98 elantras share the same body as the 99-00 to my understanding the fenders are the same as well, so in that case the front bumper and headlights from a 99 will bolt on. As far as the same body I was told this by the manufacter. I dont like the evo kits for these cars and the only way to get anyting diffrent is to go with the 99 and it will bolt up just have to change the headlights (they are a little bigger for the 99-00)
 

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Easy performance modifications (if you don't mind the extra noise) would be the basic I/H/E combo.
Intake - AEM is nice, but expensive... a cheap ebay knockoff would do
Header - just one... it's a 4 cylinder! ebay cheapies give some power... more expensive brands often give a little more
Exhaust - the infamous fart pipe! There are some quiet ones out there... if Apex'i doesn't make the World Sport line for the Lantra, then you can get some good piping and a World Sport axleback to bolt on. Nice and quiet, adds some power.

Once you have those basics, you can look at some aftermarket pullies.

Other simple, low cost things include indexing your spark plugs, cleaning everything you can get your hands on, and replacing pretty much anything that gets worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, thanks guys...

[body]a 99 bumper will bolt on but you will have to do some work around the headlights. they changed the design on the 99.hope this helps [/body]
just on this, I believe the bonnet (hood) and side guards got restyled slightly with the new headlights (which are better units anyhow, I believe). Are you saying to do some work to reshape these panels? (I'd thought of doing the bumper and headlights, but I parked my 96 next to a 99 and noticed all the differences in the cutaways on each panel.) Otherwise I'd have to do replacements of the sideguards, hood, headlights and the bumper, heh.

Any more clarification on the I/H/E mods? Sorry :puzzled: back to the newbie forum, heh. Not sure I want it to be really noisy afterwards... A low-end improvement in torque would be better than high-end, it's sluggish getting away in town traffic, etc. it IS an auto, clearly the torque converter damps it down a bit... I'm not making a racecar, just hoping to improve on what nature intended...
 

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Sorry, I was a little rushed when I posted before! I'll see if I can go into a little more detail. Since you mentioned machining heads, I thought perhaps you were a bit more experienced... that's not a simple procedure at all! (plus, you only have one head... do you come from a V8 background perhaps?)

Anyway, to further explain the I/H/E stuff:

The stock plastic intake junk (tubing running from the front of the car near the headlight to the intake manifold toward the back of the engine) can be removed and replaced with an aftermarket piece. There are two types of aftermarket intakes commonly used. The first is the easiest, and it's called a Short Ram intake. It's basically a short length of smoothly bent piping (called mandrel bent piping) that attaches to the throttle body. On the other end is a cone shaped air filter. This type of intake is SIMPLE to install, requires no modification, and increases power a bit. It allows the engine to suck in air more directly. More air = more power. The second type is the Cold Air Intake (commonly referred to as CAI) This intake attaches to the throttle body just like the short ram, but it passes through the engine bay into the fender well (basically in front of the front wheel, behind the plastic water shield). This sort of intake does the same thing as the short ram, but rather than sucking in hot engine bay air, it sucks in colder air from outside. Colder air is denser, and has more oxygen. Denser air creates more power.
The cold air intakes generally cost a bit more, but not MUCH more. I have one on my Accord, and I like it. Good brands for either type are AEM and Injen. Be aware that the CAI can suck in water if you go into a large puddle! That will destroy your engine! Many people stay away from those types because of that. AEM does make a "bypass valve" that can prevent that from happening... but that's getting ahead of things.
You can find cheap intakes on Ebay. They don't HAVE to be the expensive brands... cheap is never better, but if you're not looking to squeeze out every possible horsepower, you can go cheap. As far as the intake pipe is concerned quality wise, a pipe is a pipe!

You can also replace your header (exhaust manifold). That is on the front of your engine... 4 pipes coming from the motor that are merged to form your single exhaust pipe. The stock pieces are often rough cast iron pieces, or crudely formed steel (if you're lucky). Aftermarket pieces with mandrel bent piping can make a HUGE difference! Header pricing can vary greatly. You can get a cheapie for under $100 US... or you can get a work of art for $1200 US. The cheapies might give you 3-4hp, the work of art can give up to 20hp. If you want something inexpensive that's decent, you can get an OBX header on Ebay for under $200 US (sorry for not converting...)

As for exhaust, there are many things you can do. I went to a muffler shop and had them weld on a custom setup for me. I don't have mandrel bent piping (meaning I have narrow points where the bends are) and I have a cheap muffler. It's not very quiet, but it sounds good. There ARE mufflers out there that are very free flowing (airflow is key) that don't make a lot of noise. Look into Apex'i and Magnaflow for quiet performance mufflers. If you get a muffler shop to bend your piping, you can add a quality muffler for performance AND quiet... an "axleback" system is what you'd shop for. A full exhaust system is often called a "catback" or "aftercat" system... it goes from the catalytic converter back. A good size for your car would probably be 2". MAYBE 2.25", but that could make you lose too much low end.


The purpose of the I/H/E combo is to get greater airflow into and out of the engine. The engine is essentially a large air pump. The easier it is to get air to flow, the more power you'll make. The key is to make sure air flows at the proper velocity. By upgrading all 3 parts, you eliminate some major stock bottlenecks (if you have the intake and header, but no exhaust, the extra air you suck in won't be able to get out properly). You should be able to gain 15-20 horsepower with decent parts... give or take.


If you're looking for low end, I would recommend getting a short ram intake, a 4-2-1 header (4 pipes merging into 2, then those 2 into one), and a 2" diameter exhaust. That should add some grunt to your car, and you'll gain the high end as well!
 

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That's my only beef with the Apexi World Sport... it ONLY comes in a single tip!

I have a dual tip on my Accord, and I love the look. I only wish it was a little quieter! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I parked next to a 99 E/lantra on the weekend, and measured a couple of differences.

If you replace the front bumper and headlights only, as someone suggested, it doesn't matter about the side-guard and indicator restyling, as they don't really come into it. I think the bumper will still align with the bottom of the indicator.

However, it seemed that the width of the bonnet right at the front where it tapers into the bumper is a little different? By about 1 cm? So that would suggest the 99 bumper won't quite properly continue the line of the 96 bonnet. Unless I'm crap at measuring, or there was a difference due to a different bulge profile.

Thanks for the other suggestions on performance mods. Will discuss with a hyundai performance crowd i found in sydney, or else my regular guys...

lowering looks better also, tho i already scrape the front spoiler a lot...
 

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Performance wise, you find much for the elantra, but anything for a 4 cyl. Tiburon will work. We have the same engine and management system.

The first thing I did on my 04 Elantra was the intake and the infamous fart pipe. That gave approx. 8-10HP. With the intake, all you need to do is take the filter box off and slap a K&N cone filter on the hose, also remove the airbox inside the front fender. Then a remapped ECU will give you a gain of 20-40HP, depending on how much you wanna spend.

As for your header and exhaust, stock is good. On the 04, you have a 4-1 header, 4-2-1 would be nice, but what you got is good. And for the exhaust, take the resontaor off, the thing before you fart pipe, and your car will flow.

Before I slapped the turbo on I dynoed at 155bhp with 148ft/lb torque.


Easy and cheap, for the little bit of horsepower your looking for.

[Edited by rbwerring on Mar 22, 2006 10:22 AM]

[Edited by rbwerring on Mar 22, 2006 10:27 AM]
 

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there was a reccomendation that you can go cheap on a header. Don't. It is possible to get one inexpensive, but you need to pay attention to build quality. Primary is the thickness of the header flange. It needs to be thick. If you get a header with a thin flange, it will warp, giving a bad seal on the head surface. you could end up with water getting to the valves. this can DESTROY your motor. Very bad. The next problem is cheap welds. if it has bad welds you will have leakage. Rust. and possibly water to the valves. Another problem can be thin wall tubing. Thin walls will be more likely to rust through. They also lead to greater underhood temps. It's important for theexaust to stay hot through most of the exaust system. Uneaven tube lengths. Uneven lengths will gove you poor performance. you want equal length runners for peak power. It doesn't cost anything more for equal length runners. Make sure it has a threaded bung for the O2 sensor. It's fair to pay $2-300 for headers. you can get for less if you shop around, and I reccomend you look into header wrap or coated headers as it will SUBSTANTUALLY reduce under hood temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks, everyone. i understand all the posts if i read them twice, heh.

there is a slightly limited catalogue of parts at PSC, http://www.performancestylingcentre.com.au

ceramic coating on extractors is very expensive, adds another $250 or so...

just one other thing for comment: if i just do the input side, being wide throttle body, CAI and the K&N air filters, will I get an improvement totally independent from doing up the exhaust? i.e. are they unrelated? or would i have to do both? (additive or interactive?)

alternatively, how and where do you get a souped-up ECU? PSC only sell one reprogrammed for 95/98 octane, and that's expensive too...

[Edited by 96ozlantra on Mar 30, 2006 3:31 AM]
 

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Stick your finger in your left nostril. Then take a deep breath through your mouth. Now close your mouth. Breathe out through your right nostril. Intake and exhaust are very much related!

Those concerns about a cheap header (is that the same as "extractor" in your neck of the woods?) are valid. I believe I was the one who mentioned the cheapie. It is true, you are better off going with DECENT quality, if not great quality. Cheapies might be alright (I know plenty of Honda guys running Ebay junk) but the potential for problems is always present with such things. Header wrap, while it does reduce underhood temps (a good thing) has been rumored to put extra stress on the metal of the header. I have no hard evidence on this, but it may warrant some more research. Ceramic coatings are good, but not really needed. Many people prefer stainless steel over ceramic coated mild steel.

For the ECU, I can't really help there... I'm not familiar with Hyundai enough to know that much yet, and if it's anything like Honda, 96+ puts it into the OBD2 range... not fun to tune at all. www.pgmfi.org might have some info for you... but it's VERY technical. That's where you go to learn how to tune your ECU yourself.
 
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