How many volts does and amp remote wire carry?
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Buy a voltmeter and see what voltage you measure,at the amps remote turn on connector.
Oh............and it's not a 'signal'.It's just a voltage and a small amount of current.A signal has to do with a frequency,either analog or digital.Not trying to be an ass,just want to let you no the difference.
[Edited by MADTIB on Jul 22, 2004 11:01 PM]
Oh............and it's not a 'signal'.It's just a voltage and a small amount of current.A signal has to do with a frequency,either analog or digital.Not trying to be an ass,just want to let you no the difference.
[Edited by MADTIB on Jul 22, 2004 11:01 PM]
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i think it is 100mili amps.
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I know it's 12v for sure with any standard deck, although I'm not entirely sure that it matters what the voltage is. As long as there is enough voltage there to turn on the amp it should be fine.
You can even just run a wire from any power source in the car to a switch, then from the switch to your amp's remote and use that to turn it on/off. Doesn't have to be the remote wire.
You can even just run a wire from any power source in the car to a switch, then from the switch to your amp's remote and use that to turn it on/off. Doesn't have to be the remote wire.
if you are the least worried about it, then put in a relay, then who cares about the voltage.
or you can wire in the led which takes almost no power, and not worry about it, because it is not enough voltage to worry about.
just so you know, some amplifiers like, um cheap ones (pioneer, power acoustik, etc etc) have been known to draw up to 10 amps through the remote lead. so always using a relay (4.99 at most autopart stores) kind of makes sense if you think about it.
their is doing an install right, then there is doing an install right and proper.
or you can wire in the led which takes almost no power, and not worry about it, because it is not enough voltage to worry about.
just so you know, some amplifiers like, um cheap ones (pioneer, power acoustik, etc etc) have been known to draw up to 10 amps through the remote lead. so always using a relay (4.99 at most autopart stores) kind of makes sense if you think about it.
their is doing an install right, then there is doing an install right and proper.
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Ok, that I agree with completely.
That, wtf? 10 AMPS on a remote lead? Not likely. I've had 1 power acoustik and 2 different Pioneer amps, neither drew more than .2 amps. Even if either had drawn 10 amps, it might draw 10 amps for a fraction of a second and then the fuse on the deck would blow. Using a relay for a remote wire is really unnecessary unless for some reason you're going to run other accessories off the remote as well.
depends on model # and year, the best amps I have ever owned have been pioneer, the worst amplifiers I have ever owned have also been pioneer. All I am saying is that some certain models do draw current through the remote lead, the smaller amplifiers are the ones that do this. Also, a 10 amp fuse will not blow at 10 amps, it will blow usually at 18-20 amps if it's a spike.
uzzled:
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A relay is simple. Basically it's a switch that is activated when there is voltage on the input terminal.
There are normally 4 terminals on a relay: +12v (source), remote, ground and +12v (output).
You have a good +12v source connected to it, and a remote type lead connected to it. Also, there is a +12v output and a ground. The ground is not really important so long as it is connected and grounded properly. When there is no voltage on the remote lead, there is no output. Literally, the output is not even connected to the source. When voltage is applied to the remote lead, the switch is activated and the output is connected to the source. The output is drawn from +12v source as opposed to the remote, thus, you can have a heavy duty relay using 8ga or whatever type of wire you want that is activated by a remote. You can then use the remote to turn on/off devices that require more amperage than the remote can supply.
Hope that helps.
Oh, and basically, if you want to be %100 safe, go ahead and use a relay for LEDs or whatever connected to your deck's remote wire. But in reality, the LEDs aren't likely to draw enough current to warrant it.
There are normally 4 terminals on a relay: +12v (source), remote, ground and +12v (output).
You have a good +12v source connected to it, and a remote type lead connected to it. Also, there is a +12v output and a ground. The ground is not really important so long as it is connected and grounded properly. When there is no voltage on the remote lead, there is no output. Literally, the output is not even connected to the source. When voltage is applied to the remote lead, the switch is activated and the output is connected to the source. The output is drawn from +12v source as opposed to the remote, thus, you can have a heavy duty relay using 8ga or whatever type of wire you want that is activated by a remote. You can then use the remote to turn on/off devices that require more amperage than the remote can supply.
Hope that helps.
Oh, and basically, if you want to be %100 safe, go ahead and use a relay for LEDs or whatever connected to your deck's remote wire. But in reality, the LEDs aren't likely to draw enough current to warrant it.
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just go to auto zone and tell them you need a 30A relay. Or got to the electrical section and look for your self. It will have 4 or 5 post stick out of the bottom and a 1/2 inch metal tab stick out of the top! not hard to find.
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On the voltage think it would I'm running 12 from the power lead
Don't no on I'm doing the same
But now having hot spots on my fuse
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