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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Elantra GT 5 door with a 2.0L engine (from what I've read, I assume it's the Beta 2? please confirm). I have read that it has a solid lifter setup. My Honda 1981 CM400T has to have the valves adjusted yearly, which I've never done(9,000km's) :eek: because I don't know how to adjust the valves. Could someone perhaps provide an idiots guide to a valve adjustment? Diagrams and pictures are great. I am very mechanically inclined and have access to pretty much every tool you could think of from work, if I don't already own it. I am just spoiled with hydraulic lifters on all my other vehicals.

Cheers,
Trev
 

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Go to www.hmaservice.com and register. Click "detail search" at the top of the page after logging in. Check the "shop" box, select "Elantra XD" as your model and "2006" as the year. Then search for terms "valve" and "shim". Two links will be found. Click the top one. A new window will pop up. Scroll down and you'll see the whole procedure spelled out with pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
thanks very much - ill do that

i read a lot of google sites but non seemed specific to the elantra - cheers again - thanks

trev
 

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the only time you would have to "re-shim" is if its making alot of noise.


reshiming is a PITA!! and for the love of god when you remove the cams...please make sure that the blue links are match up with the holes in the cams...the shop manual is wrong....there is actually a tsb about it.:D
 

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the only time you would have to "re-shim" is if its making alot of noise.


reshiming is a PITA!! and for the love of god when you remove the cams...please make sure that the blue links are match up with the holes in the cams...the shop manual is wrong....there is actually a tsb about it.:D
With the proper tools, there's no need to remove the cams to re-shim.
 

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Sir, your engine uses oil filled HLA's... why (how?) can you adjust those? Coming from a 60's inspired SOHC 8V Mitsu, I can tell you adjustment of such clearances (quite easy btw, takes you 30 min w/o getting too dirty i.e. you can still hit the club up later w/o washing and pick up) is impossible on a beta. If you're making ticking sounds, either

-Add oil
-check oil pressure releif valve
-caked oil is blocking passages (superhighmileage engine)

run an engine flush, do a compression test(wet/dry), Record the results - look out for:
-two adjacent cylinders showing a marked decrease in compression (esp. wet vs dry)
-4+ cranks on any given cylinder to build compression (with more than 30 psi deflection on cranking)
-hissing or light tapping on peak torque acceleration (this would entail a road test under load, with just your ear as a guide, and of course, an assembled engine)

If any of the readings taken indicate +/- 20% change in compression, car-part.com a new head (around $100) machine it (lathe - $100), spend the saturday and swap it, making ABSOLUETLY sure you have a feeler gauge and you're checking the HLA's for any play to x 0.millimeters (see engine guide for specifics), re install in reverse order of removal.
 

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Sir, your engine uses oil filled HLA's... why (how?) can you adjust those? Coming from a 60's inspired SOHC 8V Mitsu, I can tell you adjustment of such clearances (quite easy btw, takes you 30 min w/o getting too dirty i.e. you can still hit the club up later w/o washing and pick up) is impossible on a beta. If you're making ticking sounds, either
Jed, the Beta 2 in the '01+ Elantra and Tib has solid lifters with shims, NOT hla's.
 

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Oh, well then that's beneficial... higher revs anyways.

tick tick tick tick... :p
 
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