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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
***THIS IS UNFINISHED***

just getting things started, pics will be coming a bit later. i really don't have time to write this all at once.

admin: please leave this open for me to edit until finished, if you like what it ends up as feel free to sticky it. god knows we need more how to articles.

everyone else: suggestions are VERY welcome but please keep the trash talking to a minimum. i have written tech manuals in the past, so this might get a little wordy...

****

INTRO AND DIAGNOSIS: this article will describe how to replace the clutch in your accent without removing the transmission from the engine bay. there is enough room that the trans can be moved off the engine and allow enough room to work with. the car in question is a 2004 LC2, 1.6L. procedures should be very similar for the 1.5L as the layout is very similar. in my case the bearing has worn a groove into the fingers of the pressure plate. at that point, i opted to replace the whole damn clutch assembly and be done with it.

the problem i had was a very noisy clutch bearing. this is an indication that it is going to fail at some point, and failure is quite catastrophic. the bearing can break and when that happens you're replacing the clutch. this guide can be used for replacing just the bearing as well. they are well known to be a weak spot on these cars. diagnosis is done by the particular noise that bearing makes, i'd recommend confirming by using a mechanic's stethoscope, they're very cheap.

a definite sign is hearing the noise with your foot off the clutch and then it immediately stops when you hit the clutch pedal. making a good racket while hitting the pedal can also be a sign, similar issue

i have also included a video below to help with the diagnosis. you can hear the noise but keep in mind the audio quality isn't so great.


TOOLS: beyond the basic set of wrenches, jacking tools, sockets, etc. here's what is necessary for this job and what i recommend:

32mm socket, impact preferably
brake bleeder of some sort
new trans oil (synthetic please!)
new coolant
new brake fluid
brake cleaner
johnson bar (or breaker bar some call it)
rubber or dead blow hammer
prybar
torque wrenches. a big must. you will need a large one and a medium sized one. *add ranges i use later*
extra jack or two, some wood, extra jack stands if you have them
**OR**
get your hands on an engine hoist, its much easier and safer.

recommended:
electric or air impact gun, the job will go much faster!
disposable gloves for handling the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel
knuckle joints for the above impact gun
anti-seize lubricant for a good deal of bolts...you'll thank yourself later.
rechargeable LED worklight, they are wonderful.

recommended safety:
safety boots
glasses - for laying under the car and avoiding crap in your eyes
gloves
earplugs if you're in a garage for the impact gun

STEPS:

- FIRST AND FOREMOST: track your bolts. some us egg cartons, other sorting, i like to put them back where they came from when possible. you don't get left with many bolts this way. put them in something.

-jack car up on the front end, check for safety, use wheel chocks. take your time, we're going to be removing engine mounts here!

- if you have a hoist (really, its much easier) remove your hood and put it somewhere safe. not a bad idea even without one, more room to work with.

- start by draining fluids. transmission oil, coolant and the clutch fluid. don't reuse that stuff. replace it.

*get pic of the trans drain plug later*

- remove air snorkel , entire air box and the accordian hose up the throttle body. remove the battery and the tray it sits on.



- next remove the rad hoses and the rad itself. take the fan with it, simply disconnect the electrical connector. the hoses that are on the engine and do not go to the rad will not get in your way.

- remove the clutch cylinder. disconnect the banjo fitting, you may need to replace the copper washers to avoid leaks. if you haven't removed the little spring valve in it now is a good time if you like. see below for that clutch mod to decide what you want to do with it.



- you'll notice the hose for the clutch cylinder is held on top of the engine mount with a couple bolts and a clamp. its a simple plate of steel that you can pop out, remove the bolts. this hydraulic line does not need to be removed, but take advantage of the rubber hose portion to get it out of the way. i like to use zip ties, but whatever.

- remove the shift linkage, there are two cables held in by washers and cotter pins. they are quite different looking, but remember what goes where. they are also held in place by a small bracket....remove those bolts and get them out of the way. hold them back somehow. the big round piece of metal on it is a counterweight, it needs to go too.



- now its time to get down and dirty. remove the wheels if you haven't do so already. also, remove any guards in the way. there's a couple plastic ones.

*if you do not have an impact gun, have someone hold the brakes and proceed to the NEXT step and then come BACK to this one*

now remove the brakes. secure out of the way by using some steel wire or some crap to hang them from your strut springs. remove the rotors.

noob tips: turn the wheels to get better access to the mounting bolts behind the calipers. this is a REALLY good time for brake work if you need to do so. machining rotors (i did) and new pads if needed.

- now its time for the dreaded castle nut.... as shown in the pic below, there's a bent over cotter pin. straighten it out best you can with some needle nose pliers. gently tap the pin out with your mallet, put a wrench or some steel against it and tap that if you get trouble. pull from the other side. you may need to replace these, but they are quite reusable. take your impact gun OR johnson bar and 32mm socket to that castle nut. its on there good, about 180-190 ft-lbs. the castle nut is the big brass one in the middle of the brake with the pin through it.



- remove the strut bolts from the wheel hub, get the strut off the hub. use your rubber mallet as necessary.

- now the hub is loose, simply pull forward on the hub pivoting on the ball joint to get the end of the drive shaft out. you'll have to be firm, but do be careful so you don't tear a CV boot. you will need to firmly push on the hub with one hand and pivot the end of the drive shaft with the other to get it out.



- you can let the driveshaft rest on the frame of the car. get underneath with your prybar, the drive shafts are held in by simple snap rings. i know its not the best pic, but take a look below. you can see where the end of the driveshaft mates with the transmission. the transfer case actually, the differential is housed in there. simply slip your prybar between the large end and the transmission. give it a firm pop and it'll come right out. no need to muscle it.



- carefully remove your driveshaft and inspect the CV boots, replace as necessary unless you fancy doing this again later. also check the seals. now is the time to replace them if there is ANY damage. use a seal puller to get them out. put a small amount of MP grease on the seals to eliminate the possibility of a dry start if you are taking your time, essential with new seals.

- INSPECT your CV boots. if you have a torn/damaged one, you WILL wreck the CV joint costing you a pretty penny for a new driveshaft. replacing the boot is about $10 or less. this is the time to replace it if you need to, the shaft is out.

- now its time to support the engine and remove the mounts. if you have a hoist, get your hooks into the two hoist points. they're brackets and marked in the pic below:



- if you are using jacks/wood get your trolley jacks out and support the engine with some wood and that jack. you're going to need another for the trans regardless.

- with the engine safely supported, remove the three engine mounts connected to the trans. there is an upper one in the engine bay near the driver's side strut tower, one front mid of the car below where the rad was, and a third at the back of the engine bay again bottom mid. remove the brackets as well to make your life easier. note that the bolts mounting the upper driver's side mount to the frame are kind of hidden behind rubber access covers in the driver's side wheel well. see below pic:



- finally its time to remove the bolts holding the trans onto the engine. disconnect any electrical connectors on the trans if you have not yet done so already. remove all bolts securing the transmission to the engine. take your time, there are a few of them and the odd few are bastards. there are a couple below the coilpacks that are difficult to see, but are easily accessible with a good extension on your socket wrench. see the pic below from HMA service. note where the holes are on the bellhousing in the diagram, that's what you're looking for. please note that the speedometer cable is NOT mechanical so its just another plug to remove.



- in the above pic you have probably noticed the starter. yes this needs to be unbolted, same way as the bellhousing bolts. the starter comes right out with two bolts, no need to disconnect it. simply support it somehow or if you're getto like me let it hang and don't jerk it around on its cable. its a thick cable anyhow.

- this is where it gets fun. there is no trick to doing a clutch without removing the trans. simply stand at the driver's side fender and face the engine bay. now reach one hand and arm around either side of the transmission. twist and grunt until it slides off, those alignment pins can be a bitch. you SHOULD have the trans supported at this point with a trolley jack which can move with you!! the end of the trans on the driver's side will rest easily on the frame, the trans won't really go anywhere at this point. i suggest jacking it at the differential casing. its not overly heavy, but be careful. because you're completely bent over like you dropped the soap in a prison shower, its not hard to throw out your back. see the pic below for final results, you can easily get more room that what you see. this is just resting on frame and trolley jack! plenty of room to work believe it or not.



- now comes the part where we need to figure out exactly what the problem is and what needs to be replaced. as seen below, my problem is that the clutch bearing has completely wrecked the fingers of my pressure plate. at this point i opted to replace the entire clutch assembly while i was there. sometimes, the bearing has simply failed. they are not that strong really, only serious weak point in these cars reliability wise it seems. however, there is often a root cause. if you don't find it you'll have to do this job again like i did. i replaced just the bearing around a year and a half prior to this! now my pressure plate is trashed!! the root cause? the slave cylinder was holding the bearing on too tightly....once the job is completed, you can test for that. i'll get to that at the end.

-decide on what parts you need, this guide will help you to that end. if its just the bearing, omit the clutch steps and do just the bearing. below pic is the bellhousing after i've given it a bit of a clean - i had nasty black dust everywhere from the damage. the bearing is actually easy to replace, note its orientation so that you can easily replace it. pull forward until it lets off the fork. yeah it's that easy. clean the shaft off and apply new grease to both the fork and the shaft. many clutch kits come with grease just for this, use it if you have it. if not MP grease will do just fine. don't put gobs on, you don't want that crap in your clutch assembly. install is the reverse, hold fork out and push on the shaft. take care to get the fingers of the fork into the little brackets on the back of the bearing.

*pic of bellhousing, fork and bearing, go take one you lazy bastard*

- now time to remove the clutch itself. the outer metal cover is the pressure plate which holds the clutch disk onto the flywheel tightly to connect the engine with the transmission. there are 6 bolts on the outer edge of the pressure plate, remove them and the pressure plate AND clutch disk will come free. its that easy. save the bolts, they ARE reusable.
 

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"if you haven't removed the little spring valve in it now is a good time if you like. "

What does that spring do? Could it have anything to do with the throwout bearing turning all of the time?
 

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tl;dr

don't forget to support the tranny so you don't break/bend the input shaft.
 

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weird how the reason your posts get deleted is only unknown to you. the rest of us know why. keep your ****ing mouth shut. momma doesn't love you.
 

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X3 **** u, and your mom in the ass, i didnt't even say anything bad, it was more about how can u do a clutch without pulln the trans, and yelln at zero for being a dick at the end of his post * which is usual for me and him*, so go suck a dick and drive your hyundai.... Wrx Sti BEotch I love u girlfriend, who convinced me to sell all my pos and put a down payment on a new car :)...
 

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U know what BAN me im sick of this bullshit with all these uneducated dumbasses, who think there cool cuz they can drop in some pos, hook up a dam ECU and be like yeh i can design a whole car off the top of my head... EAT **** im done helping you bastrds....I hope your cars break a timing belt :). Except zero... i wish the best for him... even though we hate each other.
 

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Bye zero... may u drink many and bang much. Last day on this pos forum.... no one comes on anyways. And the ones that do... are ****in lame. WHat have they contributed..... except talking **** to me, if you look in the past I HELPED TONS OF PEOPLE, i had no problem doing that for god sakes i was A MODERATOR.... just check the stickers sticky.... yea i did that... for the admin i was trying to keep this pos together but **** u mother ****ers and your mom, PURE ANAL prolapse.
 

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Sounds like it's someones time of the month again :rolleyes:
 

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Dude wtf, gone for a couple days... oh well **** it. And no one believes your going anywere dude so chill.
 

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what's the over/under? 3 days? wait for the meds to kick in then there will be an apology again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i've been dealing with a family crisis and still in training for work. be patient kids, it'll get done.

G4, calm the hell down man. the other forums are worse, the admin over at another is a COMPLETE ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
added some more. if you think something is missing, hold off until its finished. i'll probably get it;) if not, let me know at that time. the video is added, pics will probably come last. uploading is a pain.
 

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nice vid...i noticed the car lowered a few feet when you got in...lol jk

i bought my shelby z with a bad clutch. the p.o. told me it was throwout bearing but it never squealed. i yanked the engine and trans and when i removed the trans part of the clutch disk fell out and when i removed the pressure plate the rest of the clutch disk shattered...

when i switched my truck over to a manual trans my t.o. bearing went out after 2weeks(lol) so i drove it 2hours to replace it.
i thought i add my experiences with manual trans and clutches...

can't wait for this to be finished so i can use it as a model for when i replace my clutch...thank you in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
it'll be a while, but it'll get done. hopefully by end of week or start of next!

car didn't lower that much, i'm a skinny bastard:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
CONTINUATION DUE TO PIC LIMIT

- at this point you should have a good view of the flywheel. i HIGHLY recommend getting your flywheel resurfaced. it may be fine, but at the same time you've gone this far. it would be a shame for it to not be fine and totally trash your new clutch and have to do this beast of a job again. there are 5 low profile 12 point bolts near the center of the flywheel, you will need a breaker bar to remove them as its pretty much impossible to get an impact gun in there. you can see a pic of mine here, surface isn't bad but i got it reground anyways



*****
FEW NOTES ON THE FLYWHEEL:
- firstly, after much research on my part your mount bolts ARE reusable. they are a dealer specific part so order in advance if you feel the need to replace them. the torque on them is quite low for the size of bolt and puts the bolts nowhere near the yield point, well within the reusable limits. i confirmed this with a dealer, ran the bolt calculation myself as well as with a good friend of mine who is a professional engineer (mechanical). don't believe me if you don't want to, but there it is. i also used blue loctite on the bolts to ensure that they don't move in the future.

- choose your machine shop carefully, you will want to know exactly how they are going to resurface the flywheel. if they get cranky they are not a good shop, any shop worth anything should be happy to explain this to you. you're looking to get it blanchard ground which will take a very small amount off the surface to refinish it.

- as mentioned before, if they flywheel is NOT in perfect condition don't expect the clutch to get too far.
****

- back to the job. this one is for the noobs. when removing the bolts, the engine will want to turn. to solve this, you need to put either a breaker bar or a large socket wrench on the main pulley with the proper socket for the main pulley center nut. simply rest the handle of your bar/socket wrench on the frame on the passenger side and you will have blocked the engine from turning.

- take care removing the flywheel, it's going to have a bit of weight and you really don't want to drop it.

******
REASSEMBLY
******

- reassembly is the reverse of disassembly after the clutch is installed, so after that point things will be a little brief. be sure to adhere to torque specs, i can't stress that enough guys.

MY TORQUE VALES ARE FROM www.hmaservice.com AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS REFERENCE - VERIFY THEM FOR YOURSELF!

- when putting the flywheel back on, use the same engine blocking method as before. its best to have a friend help hold the flywheel. i noticed with mine that the bolt hols are NOT equally spaced. this means that the flywheel goes on one way and one way only. if your bolts don't line up, remove them and rotate the flywheel 1 bolt hole and try again. do NOT apply threadlocker yet, see if it fits first. once all bolts have been threaded in by hand, remove them and apply threadlocker one by one.

- using a good torque wrench, tighten those bolts down. you're looking for 88-95 ft-lbs. be sure to tighten your flywheel bolts in a star pattern same as 5 lug tires. once they're down, go over them once more to be sure you have the right tension on those bolts. this step is critical!! if you don't tighten these bolts properly, you WILL cause severe damage!

- clean the flywheel with brake cleaner, likely light oil on it from machining. clean the pressure plate friction surface with brake cleaner as well for the same reasons. make sure the cleaner has all dried off before proceeding.

- this is a little tricky, but not bad. an extra set of hands is helpful here. place the clutch disk on the flywheel and the pressure plate overtop the clutch disk. note the orientation of the clutch disk, it only goes on one way. one site will be labeled flywheel. continue to hold this on by hand pressure, and with your other hand slide the clutch alignment tool through the center of the pressure plate and the clutch disk. the end will seat in the small hole in the center of the flywheel. leave this tool in place for now. this alignment tool should have come with your clutch kit if you bought it as a kit, it slides smoothly through the center splined hole of the clutch disk.

- while still holding the clutch disk and pressure plate in place, start threading in the bolts for the pressure plate. you'll notice that there are small alignment pins for the pressure plate on the flywheel so that you get the alignment right. don't worry so much about the pressure plate sitting flat yet, that will happen once the bolts are torqued down. there's a lot of tension in that thing. loctite on the bolts if you want, and thread down by hand as much as possible. again, using your torque wrench tighten them to 11-16 ft-lbs. its not a lot. exploded diagram below to give you a better idea:



- after this is done, you can remove the alignment tool. its only job is to center the clutch disk onto the flywheel.

*finish the rest later, pick up from clutch replacement and flywheel inspection*
*remember to **** G4's mom in the ass at least thrice*
 

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Oh K Guys.... (Zero & g4) i love what you have done to help with this forum, ive been on it ever since i got my 2001 accent l (Have been looking to do the 2.0 swap {Eat it G4} I like your input on things). I just want to say bang up job on all the help & fun (Banter).
 

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As far as the Beta swap. Like I said, I'm not going to talk **** about doing the swap. I merely look down upon it because you can buy a Faster and better platform for the same cost.

I almost did a BETA swap on my 2002. I had the engine and everything. But for the projected cost i went ahead and bought my 1992 Eagle Talon with a 4g63. Truly the best move i made. But a 2.0 in a accent would be cool but a 1.5L with a turbo would be cooler.
 
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