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So I finally put my EBC Green Stuff pads in that ive had for like a year now. So i decided i would do a write-up for it.
First of all make sure you have these things:
  • 12mm wrench or socket/ratchet
  • Brake Cleaner
  • Brake Piston Clamp or whatever its called OR a C-Clamp works fine just have a big enough one.
  • New Brake pads.
Now i know this isn't as cool as putting discs on the rear but it might help someone. btw. the ebc green stuff's are freakin awesome.


1. always use jack stands




2. take off wheel




3. Use 12mm wrench or socket to take out the bottom bolt of the caliper.




4. Lift up the caliper




5. Take the old pads off. They may be snug but they just pull off.




6. Put on the new pads. Reuse the top and bottom metal pieces that you took off before. I had to take the shims that they came with off cuz the caliper wouldn't go down with them on.




7. Use the clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper then put it down over the brakes and put the bolt back in. Be sure to get the bolt pretty tight this is what makes your car stop! (but don't break it)




8. Now clean everything real good with brake parts cleaner. Don't use degreaser its not the same.

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9. Now put the wheel back on. Be sure to start each nut by hand so you don't crossthread them.




10. repeat on other side
 

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Nice write up. Just a word of caution. When using break cleaner, make sure you wear gloves and do it in a well ventilated area. Break cleaner will absorb into the skin and can lead to cancer. Just wear some gloves and you will good to go.

Is their a link to the EBC parts?
 

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well, you say that but i use brake cleaner fluid by the boxful at goodyear, the body hardly absorb's enough of it to cause cancer..most of it just evaporates off..

it's only if your body come's in contact with for more than a minute should you worry

and parts master brake cleaner is the best..
other cheap brake cleaner's have a hideous Odor and smell and dont spray Stronger like parts Master
 

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I usually open the bleeder when I push the calipers back in. It makes them easy to push and keeps you from pushing all of the contaminated fluid from the cylinder back into the system. Around the pistons is where the fluid is most likely to absorb water. Of course you then have to bleed the caliper after you have the pads installed and the caliper mounted again. I have a trick for that by the way. Put a box wrench on the bleeder screw and slip a piece of rubber tubing over the nipple. Put the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the fluid. Open the bleeder and close it lightly until you just feel it seat. Pump the brake pedal and if the air is out you should feel that the pedal if high but as you press harder it goes down. It should take a bit of force to make it go down. If it goes down too easily then tighten the bleeder just a tad more. After a few hard pushes the caliper should be OK and you can tighten the bleeder to the correct torque. You can hear the trapped air going past the bleeder screw. Make sure to keep the master cylinder filled after every 3 pumps.

When you partially tighten the bleeder screw it creates a one way valve that will let the fluid and air out but not let anything back in. Again, don't forget to fully tighten the bleeder when you are finished.
 
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