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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was driving through the tropical storm that rollin up the east coast today and I completely misjudged a puddle and my engine stopped (I have a cold air intake and no bypass valve as of yet). I tried to turn it over about 20 times over 20 minutes and it finally started. (i know now that was a stupid thing to do as it may have made it worse). The car did start and was shaking rough for a bit so i let it sit idle for a few minutes then drove it around. It stopped again, and I restarted it and was able to drive it home. The more I drove it the better it seemed to drive although the shifting still seemed to be out of sync. I didnt see any engine smoke, but i did smell some burning oil initially. The brakes also seemed to not be working as well either but that got a little better and better. I'm gonna take it to the dealership to see if there is any damage to the connecting rods or pistons, but if there is damage how much is that to repair or is it not even worth it?
 

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Ok hears the deal. I once made the same stupid mistake, driving threw a puddle with a CAI on. The end result was a bent rod.

It sounds like you just need to change the oil. You would know if you bent a rod. Car wouldn't start.
I say change the oil and see how she runs.
 

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clean your plugs too while you are at it, make sure they are gapped properly too
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i hope its not too bad. Its still shaking pretty bad and the CEL is lit up. Im gonna take it in monday, we'll see what the dealership says.

Thanks guys
 

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Think of it this way.
You sucked up water threw the intake. What sensor are in line of the intake. MAF/MAP, TPS, IAC. What sensor could be affected by the water going into the intake.

I fried my IAC and MAF when I hydrolocked.

Not trying to go off topic, but if you have the 1.5 and need a MAF i have one laying around that was only used for about 3 months. Will sell for cheap.

Also, take out your plugs (all of them at the same time) and give the motor a good crank (a couple of cranks) to purge out the H2O in the cylinders.

I would try that before taking it to the steelership. They are going to charge you +/-85 bucks just to tell you that its hydrolocked.

Do an oil change and purge out the water from the cylinders.
 

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I work a canadian tire and had a client with the exact same problem(different car) best thing to do is 1: take out spark plugs and dry them by had 2: put engine oil were the spark plugs go(it'll get all the water out) and crank the engine a few times without the spark plugs, if theres not damage from the hydrolock ur engine will be bak to normal. But i still suggest getting it checked out incase theres some small damage so it doesnt get worse.
 

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Warning, i know of two cars that seemed fine after that. Only to throw a rod a month later. Not to try and panic you, but both cars had less than 50k. The last one I saw do it was a yota. Not exactly a car I would expect to just randomly throw a rod out the side of it's block.

Do everything mentioned in this thread, then once it is running right go drive the poo out of it for a short time. The yota blew up as it tried to pass someone on the highway.

The good news is I have heard of several hyundais hydrolocking and living. One ended up seeing boost on the same motor and that guy never had an issue. It all depends on just how much water made it into the cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice. I took it to the dealership anyhow and it looks like the car will live but for quite a steep price. The engine has serious misfiring and they had to replace plugs and wires before they could run a proper diagnostic (104$). There was no internal engine damage but the radiator sprung a leak and the oil needs changing. There was a lot of other damage to the car that was not (i think) hydolock related. The rotors were scraped and needed to be refinished or whatever the term is. New front brake pads. Power steering flush, coolant flush, rear brake check, some hoses needed replacing. There was other stuff, i mean he went down a list of stuff that was wrong i was like holy ($*#@.

The total came to 2700$ with all parts and labor (prolly inflated since i took it to dealer) but i wasnt takin any chances, and didnt want to go and buy a new car. I also had them put a bypass valve on the CAI so my idiot self doesnt do this again.

Thanks everyone, car will be ready in 2 days ill let u know how it drives
 

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funny..the same **** just happened to me on friday...but i left the car running gas'd it some left it running and then drove it..it seems to be running smoothly now...should i still go get mines checked out?? or just checkin on the spark plugs and do the start thing with out them in?

oh and i jus picked this up..but if u do hit puddle and car wont start get out and push down on the back of the car...and try and start it then...dunno why or how..but it worked for me...instead of waiting twenty min...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
another update, they did all the repairs and fired up the engine and it turns out the compression in one of the chambers was messed up and they needed to replace the entire block. Lucky for me the engine had 88k miles on it and was covered under warranty which will reduce my cost by a whole bunch.

just a word to the wise, even after u get any repairs done your engine still may be f****d. So if you arent under warranty u are prolly better off doing a trade-in after a h-lock
 

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i'm surprised they are covering it under warranty and not blaming it on your cai thus voiding your warranty
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i'm surprised they are covering it under warranty and not blaming it on your cai thus voiding your warranty
Im not asking them any questions on that. Thats what I thought too, they said covered under warranty so once I see the bill i'll believe it myself
 
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