[Shadohh]

I use to run Castrol 10-w30 reular oil. and my HLAS would tick anytime I took the car above 6k rpms. in any weather.

since then I have changed to Castrol 5w-30 BLend which is semi synthetic. I have found it work best, I have never had a tick again. Not even in 0f degree weather ona cold start up.

And the oil never seems to get dirty any more.

I also use GUNK 5 min engine flush eveyr 2-3 oil changes. usually 3 in the winter and 2 in the summer.


Fully synthetic is NOT recommended for ANY engine with HLAS.

You learn that on the sixth day at automotive school.

 

[vipergts_3]

if you look into the source es on the different types of oils . all will say the same thing aboutoil and synthetic oil is dirty synthetic isnt thats the only difference .

the most important thing is to keep your motor clean and contaminat free and you will have a strong running car for the entire time you own it

 

[VALKYRIE YB70]

_______________________Oil For The Scoupe Turbo_____________________________

Because this car has under-piston cooling oil jets, it needs extra special attention when choosing oil!.
In stock (7psi. boost) condition, the oil temp. in the sump (oil-pan) will reach 125C. on a normal run.......mineral oil starts to break down @140C.!
The use of a fully-synthetic lubricant is, therefore, a must.
Because of the heat, Mobil 1 & other 5W/40 oils become too thin & oil-consumption increases.I have found that Mobil 1 15W/50 Racing Formula is the perfect answer.......It withstood the 150C. temperatures generated by my tuned (12psi.) engine, before I fitted an oil-cooler, with no oil being consumed & lasted 6000 miles between changes.
I can thoroughly recommend this to all Scoupe Turbo owners!!.
Nick.

 

[accent2570]

I have run Castrol GTX 10w-40 in my car ever since I changed from the factory oil 1000 miles after I bought the car and have never had an issue with it...it gets changed every 3000 miles and it's up to 34,000 with no complaints. I used Valvoline in my old Daytona and it sucked, I'll never use it again cause it ****ed up the engine and it looks like water. The GTX is a thicker oil and if you look in the owner's manual, Hyundai even recommends using Castrol. The car is a Pittsburgh car so it gets to deal with snow, rain, hot, cold...everything that you can think of and I have not had one issue with it. And I don't baby the car but I don't beat it, and it gets driven in city and highway, mainly city...and still, no issues. I would recommend the Castrol just from personal experience, and if you aren't running something with high performance, you really don't need a synthetic or synthetic blend oil unless you don't change the oil as recommended or you beat the **** out of your car. And I have heard if you use a synthetic, you have to continue to use it or your engine will burn it out, so i won't use it. My plan is using regular GTX until 100,000 miles and then the castrol high mileage until the car dies or rusts into oblivion. my goal is 300,000 with no major failures, but optimistically i want to get at least 150,000.

 

[dusty]

uzzled:Hi all, dazed and confused, do people from another planet write the owners manuals in Hyundais? I bought a 2000 GLS 2.0ltre Auto with 131,000kms (81,875mls) a couple of months ago and the book says 20W-40 or 20W-50 for the likely temp ranges it will be exposed to (-3 C - 31 deg C) and I am thinking maybe 15W -40 or ???? I have the service records (ex lease car) and will probably just e/mail the dealer who serviced it last and ask them which oil grade they used,its only being driven carefully by the wife so its not under any serious stress, happy with the car though ,its had all the major wear and tear stuff done after 70,000mls discs, wheel bearings, cam belt so it should not need any further attention for a while. Damm good price too, used to slag them off years ago but am one of the converted now.

 

[TurboLS]

currently i'm using 20w-50 Quaker State synthec blend. i personaly think thats the best oil i have use. the weather here is pretty hot and dry. even at night we get 80 something degrees F. aranoid: uzzled: so imagine at noon:ermm:

 

[CleanAccent]

^^ True. Same here in Hawaii where I'm currently living. It's hot. My G/F's '99 Accent (used to be my car) would need about 1qt added every 1,500 miles using 10W30. Now I switched the car to 20W50 and not a drop burns off before it's 3,000 mile oil change.8D
I also only use Castrol GTX. I sware by this stuff. I use it in my race car and it never let me down, lap after lap after lap.

 

[MarkG]

Hyundai Accent 2000: Redline 10/30 and mobil 1 75/90

308GTSi: Redline 10/40W and Redline 75/90W NS

 

[Tibbiette]

what does HLA mean?

and why is FULL SYNTHETIC not recommended? and is mobil 1 synthetic a full synthetic oil?

and does anyone know if 5w30 all year round would cause a problem? or is it fine using that all year round in summer and winter?

[Edited by Tibbiette on Dec 5, 2004 9:39 PM]

 

[forcedfx]

Originally posted by Tibbiette
[body]
what does HLA mean?

and why is FULL SYNTHETIC not recommended? and is mobil 1 synthetic a full synthetic oil?

and does anyone know if 5w30 all year round would cause a problem? or is it fine using that all year round in summer and winter?

[Edited by Tibbiette on Dec 5, 2004 9:39 PM]
[/body]

HLA = Hydraulic Lash Aduster. Designed to keep the tolerance between your intake/exhaust valves and the camshaft lobes within spec. They are pressurized by the oil and they act like small hydraulic rams that expand with pressure. A noisy HLA is often an indicator of poor oil pressure which could be caused by multiple things.

Mobil 1 SYNLUBE is a FULL synthetic but not regular Mobil1 oil. During break in you should run conventional oil so the metal parts have a chance to wear into one another and find their groove I like to say. Synthetics are better at "soaking in" to the metal than conventionals due to their molecular structure which is much more stable and uniform. Synthetics have a higher flash point, burn point and are less likely to "gum up" the engine... all three of thohse are good. Synthetics are better than conventional oils in every aspect except their price. However, what many people are starting to discover with testing is that a synthetic oil is best topped up when needed and the filter changed instead of a whole drain and refill with new oil. Most of the wear and tear appears to happen during the first 3000 miles of an oil change. The school of thought goes that the oil gets better as it gets older. 12,000 miles on Mobil1 SynLube should not be out of the question provided the filter is changed every 4000 miles and the oil level topped up as needed. The fresh fusion of oil when topped up or after a filter change acts to replenish the protective ability of the oil to almost new. Many also suggest that synthetic oil is easier for the filter to clean, again, due to it's molecular nature.

5w-30 oil is fine to run year round provided the ambient temperatures are between 0-100 degrees Farenheit. As you approach the lower and upper end of that spectrum though the oil starts to change viscosity. On a 0 degree day your going to have very thick oil which requires more work on the part of the oil pump to push it in and around the engine. On a 100 degree day you'll have thinner oil which while easy to pump, lacks the viscosity to form a layer of protection between the metal bits of the motor. People living in the North should consider a lower viscosity while those n the South should probably go thicker. But since most climates have a 100+ degree variance between Winter and Summer it's harder to establish which oil shoud be rn year round.

 

[tdonnell]

After I changed to Mobil 1, my car started burning oil, about 1 quart per 3000 miles. I was running 10 30, but now I am going back to 5 30, ne1 have any ideas why my car started to burn oil when I switched to synthetic? Because of its thinner structure? If I add an oil cooler will it help it out? I will need one when I go turbo anyway, and it won't hurt anything now so why not? Are the ones in the store nice? Any other suggestions on oil coolers and possible sizes for a 1.8L tib? Thanks for any help.

 

[shark2003]

Ill sticc with Valvoline synthetic 5w30 works great in all weather

 

[lucid_dreams]

stay away from royal purple it started to burn in the car way before it's time was up. 5W-30 is not good all year for most of us that live in the upper united states. the first number of oil is the winter thickness the second number is operating temp thickness i am now running castrol syn with no problems
one way to see how your oil is doing is to have a oil gage and see how much presure it is building at cold and operating temps in the summer i run a 15-50 and in the winter either 5-40 or 5-50 in my V-6
the myth of syn makng seals leak is false normally what is happening is that the syn oil has taken the sludge off of the leaking seal and now the oil is seeping through
new engine breakin - use conventional but no one has proved that syn is bad ... yet
switching back and forth has not shown problems but i imagine that it could cause some oil mixture problems down the line.

 

[madman1987]

So what oil is better ??? synthetic or just regular? as i went to the hyudai dealership i asked if they could put synthetic oil in my 2005 tiburon GT, he replyed and told me that it is not good for the engine.... hows that i thought synthetic was better than regular? so if anyone could tell me which is better it would be really appreciated i plan to add some preformance parts to it later on the road and i want to keep my engine in top shape.. so which is better? :??: sorry for any type errors.

 

[Komptek]

Up north in Canada we have whats called Block Heaters so you can still run 5W30 but for summer usage since our days a very long and hot moving up to a 10w30 for tuned engines isn't a bad ideal.

 

[Killco]

Has any one tried Red Line Synthetic Race Oil? It's pretty much the top of the line at eight bucks a quart but I hear it's really worth it. I am thinking about putting it in my girlfriend's Tib.

 

[geezer101]

I have been using Shell Helix HX5 15w40 in my Beta I engine. It's high mileage (320,000 ks +) and it does burn oil. The HLA's are worn and they are not cheap to replace, but I find if I do the occasional engine oil flush (every 2nd or 3rd oil change depending on hydraulic noise) the rattle is minimal. It gets hot where I am. It pays to do an oil flush - it extends oil life between service intervals by reducing the residual contaminant exposure in the sump and oil galleries. Even if your engine looks like a mess inside and you think it's not worth it, it can go a long way to restoring performance and reducing hydraulic noise.