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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have a 2002 Accent L Manual with 110,000 miles.

When i push down on the clutch is feels like 5 x more softer and only can engage at the very bottom (where i am flooring it).


This happened last time, and the mechanic said he "adjusted" something all the way to the top, im not sure what he did. it feels like the clutch is not tight or anything, almost like a loose nut/screw feeling.

Sorry for the confusion, but is this sign of a bad clutch or something else.

And if it is a bad clutch, how much is it to replace it?

Thanks guys!
 

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sounds like a fluid problem to me also...or bleed the clutch but last time my clutch went out it would rev up then engage while in gear and kinda jerk around
 

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i would say its going bad, the same thing is happening to my semi at work, and the clutch is shot. the clutch pedal is really soft, and its powerless. and yes as the clutch wears down you can adjust it to the "top", thats probaly what the mechanic did is readjust it. i would check your fluid first, and if its fine, have the clutch checked.
 

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truckguy said:
i would say its going bad, the same thing is happening to my semi at work, and the clutch is shot. the clutch pedal is really soft, and its powerless. and yes as the clutch wears down you can adjust it to the "top", thats probaly what the mechanic did is readjust it. i would check your fluid first, and if its fine, have the clutch checked.
thats true on a truck but thats not true on a hyundai. the only thing that is actually adjustable on the hyundai is the pedal.

to bleed the clutch you are gonna need someone to help you. you have to have someone in the car holding the pedal down and while its down quickly open and close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. it will shoot brake fluid out and hopefully any air bubbles that may be in the line. do this a few times and make sure there is plenty of fluid on the reservoir. if it never gets better it could be that you have a bad slave cylinder or master cylinder.
 

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The clutch slave cylinder is located actually on the top front edge of the transmission.

If looking at the engine compartment from the front bumper, it is located to the drivers side of the engine, between the airbox and radiator - straight down. You will see a steel fluid line running to it on 1 side, and the hydraulic piston on the other side of it. It will have a bleed screw similar to that on your brake system on it, which will have a little rubber boot covering the bleed screw.

If the cylinder is leaking (check behind the rubber boot which covers the piston for fluid) it will need replacing. Hyundai Part#41710-22660

If it is not leaking, bleed the system in the same process of a brake system bleed (with a 2nd person, Pump the clutch, hold, bleed and tighten, Pump the clutch, hold, bleed and tighten, repeat...) making sure to top up the fluid and keeping it topped up.

If there is no improvement after bleeding the system, and the cylinder is not leaking, you may require a clutch, however clutch slippage is usually indicitave of replacement being required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys,

I took it to the mechanic, he adjusted something which made the clutch back to its original pressure. I drove home, and now i can shift into first anymore.

One week later, i check the car, and its back to mush (the clutch is soft) AND i cant shift into gear.



I finally figured out where the slave cylinder is, but im not sure how to bleed it, do you use an actual SCREWDRIVER, or a wrench (i dont see any screws on the slave cylinder) but noticed the neck of the slave cylinder is in a shape of a hexagon (nut shaped).


If i end up replacing my slave or master cylinder, where can i buy them at?

thanks guys!
 

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I had same problum in my Elantra so I changed fluid it shifts faster and easier and also made sure there was enough brake fluid under the clutch cap. Ok so I asked a pro and yes it is the clutch the pressure plate is probly worn or something that relates to you pressing clutch pedal all the way to floor to engage properly. It is ok to wait until it goes out.
 

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The slave cylinder on the top of the transmission near the radiator will have a rubber covered nipple (similar to a bleeder on your brake caliper/wheel cylinder) which will also be open and closed by a 10mm wrench/spanner.

If a simple bleed of the fluid solves the problem, looks for leaks of the line that runs between the clutch master (prone to runs/corrosion) and the slave cylinder.

Parts are reasonably priced for these items at the local dealer. Master's rarely fail - the lines and slave are replaced a bit more commonly.
 

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rebleeding it isn't going to do any good. ask yourself? why would i have air in the lines? well, the obvious answer is a leak. so you rebleed it, and the leak is still there and you still have the problem. find the leak. if there is no leak, then your clutch actually is bad. bad slave and master cylinders have different symptoms than what you have.
 

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rebleeding it isn't going to do any good. ask yourself? why would i have air in the lines? well, the obvious answer is a leak. so you rebleed it, and the leak is still there and you still have the problem. find the leak. if there is no leak, then your clutch actually is bad. bad slave and master cylinders have different symptoms than what you have.
Granted but you are making an assumption that what the shop did to correct the issue was a bleed. It is not specified if a bleed was already performed.

As such, a diagnosis or test repair needs to be performed prior to a proper repair.

I also mention to look for leaks. Self explanatory.

Please read before you post.
 
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