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hey all,

looking for recommendations for my next upgrade. what i can think of off the top of my head are:

solid (or poly) motor mounts - custom or sharkracing
MSD ignition setup - not sure what everyone would recommend, DIS2?
p&p head and backcut valves
thicker copper head gasket - accompanied by more boost
custom intake manifold
ceramic coated exhaust manifold and possibly turbo
heat wrap
electronic boost controller
ss oil return line
direct port nitrous setup - lower boost and as small a shot as possible (35-50)
(this one is a little more expensive but i don't know if the small shot is possible and what other opinions would be)

i have about $3-400 to spend. i'm looking for the most bang for my buck. the boost controller is more for show as my mbc is doing the job just fine. at the current time i think i do need some sort of ignition mods but not sure what others would recommend. certain things, like poly'd motor mounts i can do myself and save money, so maybe which two mods should be next in line? or would a custom intake manifold (similar to the beta's AIRRAM design) net a decent gain? how expensive would a P&P head cost and to have the valves backcut, etc? i know hyundai heads are considered junk anyway. the copper head gasket is an idea i've sort of carried with me from my turbo dodge days. they had poor headgaskets so a copper one-off was a common mod. and with most specialists willing to increase thickness to lower compress, i could run more boost which is always a plus. alpine offers a decomp plate for the DOHC... but i understand everyone will say the proper way to lower compression would be with pistons. would a decomp plate or thicker head gasket screw with the timing/timing belt?

any suggestions or ideas (even ones i haven't listed) would be greatly appreciated. :chinese:

note: at the current time i have 310cc (30#) injectors in, my s-afc is tuning them out -18% for the moment, i have a 2.5" i/c to t/b pipe about 10psi, '96 beta ecu, no cat, and hks ssqv installed (most of my 'next' mods have been installed i just don't have an updated 0-60 time) my dump pipe is a dual chamber 2.5" stainless steel (ssautochrome) out to a full 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust. the dp functions well and i practically stole it. my cousin set me up with the hks SSQV for $25 he was upgrading his STI (again!) and didn't want it any more.

[Edited by X3Jason on Oct 14, 2005 7:44 PM]
 

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My upgrades are similar to yours, but I had already completed the turbo upgrade.
- hyundai cylinder head was cleaned and reconditioned
- front chassis was strengthened and rebuilt
- I went through a lot of secondhand turbos, purchased a brand new garrett gt28rs
- replaced the ecu with haltech e6x and controls fuel, ignition, boost control etc
- haltech does have Anti-Lag, but the mechanic advised its just like NOS, its dangerous for street driving and suitable for the Track Driving only.


These are the last parts for the upgrade, mechanic is installing this week.
sard fuel pressure regulator (under $80)
stage 2 performance camshaft ($700+)
replace the engine oil to synthetic (under $50)

check this supplier www.rpw.com.au

Plans for the next 6 months to 12 months
metal cylinder head gasket
forged pistons
forged conrods
Parts



[Edited by renantepayne on Oct 15, 2005 3:07 PM]

[Edited by renantepayne on Oct 15, 2005 3:08 PM]
 

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Just some info on my experience with my electronic boost controller (apexi avc-r). Im not sure how the boost works on the auto (where boost begins/peaks etc). I know with my boost controller the boost is completely at your control. I used mine to turn down the boost in first gear (so I can launch at will) and to increase the rise to boost (negative vac. to positive pressure) in second. From there about 2500rpm I have 8lbs of boost and before 3000rpm I have 10lbs. I still have a little bit of tinkering before that 8lbs goes to 10lbs. Its a dual stage controller which easily swaps from a low boost to high boost setting (a or b). It has a self learn mode which it can learn a boost curve automatically if you wish. Also having the ability to log boost vs rpm (among many other things) comes in very handy for tuning it. The unit was expensive though. Just some thoughts on it ;-)
 

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i would say do the motor mounts yourself for $11 with window weld. then do the p&p head and valves etc. but thats just because i have a shop here that will do it cheap its like $8 per valve and head seat. thats under $100 for the valve work and i'd do the porting and disassembly/reassembly myself. its only like $20 to resurface the head as well.

**EDIT**

actually if you want a slightly used head i am running into a pretty good deal on one with a light porting and 3-angle valve job. ill check and see how many miles are on it if youre interested. im probably going to pick it up anyway and if you dont want it then it'll be installed on my sisters car eventually.

[Edited by beppomarx on Oct 16, 2005 11:57 AM]
 

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Yeah do the mounts yourself, I did mine. That part was easy and cheap.....
 
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