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what do i need to buy to turn my NOS dry kit into a wet kit, and how much would it be? i got a deal on a NOS dry kit, im buying it monday, i want to turn it into a wet kit to get more boost from it.


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you can save lots of $$ if you do this instead..

buy the edelbrock kit part # 70001 and buy ONE NOS fogger nozzle. buy jets part # 41 and 26. that is good for 70 HP.

and it is a wet kit.

discard the carbuerator plate and jets that come with the kit, and use the fogger nozzle instead along with the NEW jets.

price for stuff... kit # 70001 $350.
Fogger nozzle, $37.
Two jets... $ 10.

what do you think about that mister?



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Here are some part #'s. just in case somebody tries to trick you into buying the wrong parts...

1. Edelbrock Performer Nitrous kit..................EDL-70001
2. NOS Fogger 2 Nozzle....................................NOS-13700B
3. MSD EFI 43gph Fuel Pump..........................MSD-2225
4. NOS Purge Valve Kit.....................................NOS-16030
5. NOS Bottle Pressure Guage.........................NOS-15910
6. NOS Bottle Heater.........................................NOS-14164
7. NOS Remote Bottle Valve.............................NOS-16058
8. Autometer Lean-Rich Guage.........................ATM-4375
9. NOS Time Based Progrssive Controller.......NOS-15835B


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>1999 Hyundai Elantra Auto. 80HP Wet Nitrous System. http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
AIM SN: FordFasteR
 

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i thought over your setup..

ok, if you have a standard NOS dry kit such as part # 05122, then this is exactly what you should do to convert it into a wet kit.

parts needed...
1. power shot fuel solenoid.
2. NOS FOGGER 2 nozzle.
3. 2 jets, the ones you use depend on the hp you want to add, see chart above..
4. a 1 foot braided fuel hose with the connectors for solenoids on the end..
5. a few misc parts to rig up the fuel pump electircal stuff, such as a 30 amp relay and a switch to turn it on/off... some butt connectors to hook up to the battery and to connect all the wires..
6. some 5/16 rubber fuel hose... about 3 feet will be more than enough and you will have spare left...
7. a box of 4, maybe 2 packs if you are installing an in-line fuel pump such as the MSD),, metal fuel clamps.. the kind with the screw that is used to tighten it.. get the smallest size clamps available, they will fit nice on 5/16 fuel hose.
8. other misc parts that will come up as needed... so have some extra $$ handy, or a credit card or something. hehehe
9. TEE FITTING with 5/16 nipples on it.


ok, now that you have the basic parts..

1.you need to remove the single dry fogger nozzle.
2. mount the new fogger nozzle where the old one used to go..
2a. remove the vacume line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator, and hook up the original manifold vacume line back to it. discard the fuel tee fitting that came with the dry kit.
you can leave the nitrous pressure device un-connected and dont plug up the nipple, or you can break the diaphram when you spray... nothing should come out of that thing when you spray.. it just sends pressure into no where now.... its uselss, if you want, you can remove it completely and sell it or throw it in the garbage where it belongs...
3. you have to mount the fuel solenoid as close to the fogger nozzle as you can. then wire it to the same connections as the nitrous solenoids...
4. cut the factory metal fuel line about 3 inches after it comes out of the fuel filter.
5. attach the TEE fitting here and re-connect it to the fuel solenoid, and the other end back to the rest of the fuel system....

6. insert the jets into the fogger nozzle. and screw the braided lines onto them. you already have one braided line for nitrous what was on the original dry kit.. you can re-use this one :).. and then use the NEW line from the fuel solenoid to the fuel nipple on the fogger..

7. after all of this, turn the car on and check for leaks..
8. make sure the nitrous bottle is CLOSED.. and test the system by clicking the throttle switch .. the car should bog out and probly turn off.. this is because the extra fuel will come in via the new solenoid and bog out the engine... if it doesnt turn off, then the rpms should drop considerably and it should run rough... let go of the switch.. press it again and make sure you can hear/feel the fuel and nitrous solenoids opening...

thats pritty much it..

put some octane boost into the fuel tank, open the bottle, and take it for a spin !

try out the juice... it should make the car move HARD with anytying over 70 HP shot . !!!


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>1999 Hyundai Elantra Auto. 80HP Wet Nitrous System. http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
AIM SN: FordFasteR
 

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quick comment do not absoulutly do not use octane boosters with nitrous it is specifically mentioned in NOS instructions not to use these boosters most do not increase fuel octane they use methanol to supplement this can cause detonation with nitrous and thats why they bother to mention it to run more juice go to your local sunoco and mix a half a tank of super 94 with gp 100 unleaded it will yeild approximatly 97 octane which should be more than sufficient for a 70 shot


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i was told that some of these octane boosters use deisel gasoline to boost octane..

but i didnt know you could mix deisel with gasoline safely...

who knows.

i dont buy the kind with methanol in it... i buy the regular one for 1.99 .. the ones with methanol in them are upwars of $6 . each.

so i think i'm kewl :)


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>1999 Hyundai Elantra Auto. 80HP Wet Nitrous System. http://www.pcrepairworld.com/nitrousworld
AIM SN: FordFasteR
 
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