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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I kno at my dad's work they service trucks theres, and they have oil in bulk tanks, but its all 15w40, and i didn't realize this and aparantly the mechanic didn't kno it'd be bad. my car ticked so much! too thick! im running 10w30 (castrol gtx) now .. its rather cold here so i thought about knocking it down to 5w30. thats what my moms grand am calls for all the time! the thing is, i don't kno what the first # vs the second # stand for in oil. i figure its like you have 5w30, 5w40, 10w30, 10w40, 15w30, 15w40.. is that right? like for each first number there are two differnt viscosities of 30 and 40... and a 10w30 is more viscous than a 5w40... correct? and if u just say "40 weight oil" you need to kno whether your talking about 5, 10, 15 or whatever? so if i were going to step down from 10w30 oil for the winter, id want 5w40, cus 5w30 would be two steps down? ...and is there a 5w40?? haha oil is confuseing! and what abot synthetic vs natural? i have a 1.5L sohc accent, fyi.

also, which side of the crush washer is up? there is a smooth flat side, and a side with a seam where the metal is rolled together..i figure the smooth side goes down flat against the plug with the seamed side up? thanks!


<hr noshade width=60% size=1 align=left>'98 Accent GSi
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Get Synthetic if you live in a cold climate.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left><b>I absolutely positively abhor and verbally bitchslap anyone who starts quoting me their entire car mods as some sort of "Stage".~RED~</b><img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

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Also if your running turbo.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well, i live in MD, and its very fickle actaully. but so..what about the class of the oil? should i run 10w30 natural in the summer and 10w30 synthetic in the winter? my egine is stock internally with 66k on it, what are other guys with similar accents running?


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>'98 Accent GSi
Naxos muffler / custom 2 1/4" catback
Clear side markers
Custom front grills
Custom CAI
Racing pedals
<img src="http://www.flightsimmers.net/airbase/talonsnest/carshiz/car3.gif" border=0>
 

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Regards your first question:
those numbers in the oil are meassures homologated by SAE (Society of American Engineers -- or very similar name) and what they mean is that the viscosity of the oil is variable, a 5w30 means the oil would behave as a 5 degree viscosity when cold, but, when warm, instead of being too thin, it gains viscosity, to a max of 30.

Theorically, one number has nothing to do with the other, BUT producers tend to use standards that's why they offer practically the same. (Also those standards are set by manufacturers specifications on engines).

That's viscosity, there are also some other indicators, such as letters, SE, SG, SF and others, they indicate the qualuity of the oil (it's resistance to boil, burn, leave varnish, etc) and if it's synthetic it means it doesn't come from mineral oil and it should last longer.
<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Zman

Only the brave tune where there is 45% tax on every car part...
 

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I have heard that if you go with Syn. you have to stick with it... or it will damage the gaskets and valves or something. I may be wrong.


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Never heard of that, doesn't sound convincing though, because what would be the reason? Synthetic is better in everyway than mineral oil, isn't it?



<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Zman

Only the brave tune where there is 45% tax on every car part...
 

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Okie you should run normal oil for at leaste 1000-1500 to seat the seals of a new car. After that synthetic is the way to go. It shouldn't hurt to switch between natural and synthetic but I wouldn't recogmend it. Also I live in wisconsin and run 10W-30 all year. It has never caused a problem in my 4-bangers. As for the washer. the seam should face the oil pan, i.e. --o)-I crappy picture of the washer.


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10W30- Winter
10W40- Summer

I have been using that for years now, in old cars and new. Works fine <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0> None of that synthetic ****. No need too. Just change your oil at the normal intervals with Quaker State or Castrol, and you should be fine.


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The viscosity you choose all depends on the weather where you live/drive.

A person living in Alaska would use a lower viscosity oil than someone in South America.

Where I live the winters are warm and summers are hot, so I use 20w 50 all year round.
Check your manual, there will be a chart showing temperature ranges and which viscosity oil you should use for your climate.

As for synthetic vs mineral debate you could toss that one around for hours....
IMO change your oil & filter regularly, use the correct viscosity and it won't matter if you use synth or min.



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
according to zman's post (which makes sense, so id tend to believe its true) then jhr382, isn't what u do during the winter vs the summer pointless? if the min viscosity is 10 then ur oil will never be any thinner in the winter than it is in the summer. now in the summer it would be allowed to get a little thicker cus the max is 10-degree higher... but wouldn't u want to change between oils with the same cold viscosity number if u live in a climate where its warm and then hot? and for where i live, get oil with the same max viscosity # (5w-30, 10w-30) cus it's usually just warm or cool, but sometimes it gets really cold.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>'98 Accent GSi
Naxos muffler / custom 2 1/4" catback
Clear side markers
Custom front grills
Custom CAI
Racing pedals
<img src="http://www.flightsimmers.net/airbase/talonsnest/carshiz/car3.gif" border=0>
 
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