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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, here are my planned mods :

1> aos cai (already on)
2> shark 421 header and custom 2.5" exhaust with high flow cats
3> 1.8l elantra cam
4> bbtb and im (have a local speedshop that will match the im to the bbtb for $125)
5> b&g springs 1.5" drop
6> 205/50/15 tires

I want to stay n/a - should this all add up to a pretty good increase ?

And NO I don't want bigger rims. Just wider tires.
<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, etc. every option avail.
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You should get a pretty good gain out of those mods. I'm guessing between 15-20 hp at the flywheel. As far as whp, it could be a little bit less or maybe a little more <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Hey guys, here are my planned mods :
... And NO I don't want bigger rims. Just wider tires ... ]
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Your planned mods are similar to mine concerning the suspension. I run on 15x6.5 alloys, with 195/50 (planning to move to 205's next tire change). I chose H&R Springs and I think they are great. Some time ago somebody said they were soft, but incidentaly today I read the Tire Rack comparisson between H&R and Eibach and H&R were suposed to be firmer. Just to consider cause they drop the same as B&G's.
Pretty interesting planned mods, post pictures (I will as soon as I install some little things I'm buying for Christmass).
<img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

Zman
 

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If you are planning to stay n/a then you should look into those new cams and ECU that adds 30whp for about $1500. It is a great buy for a n/a car.

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Yeah right now Im running on 205 50 15s 15by7s, the wider the better, I never cared how tall a wheel was.

Your loosing! Press Ctrl Alt Delete!

- 1997 Hyundai Elantra
- 2000 Ford Focus SE
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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>3> 1.8l elantra cam
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>
this helps ur hp how?

it looks like i'm wearing pants... but i'm not!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>3> 1.8l elantra cam
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>
this helps ur hp how?

Do a search for 1.8l and you 'll learn everything. It basically has more lift than the 2.0l.



2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, AOS CAI, Elantra 1.8l cam, Shark 421 header, custom exhaust, every option avail.
http://www.disciplers.org/Scotto46_files/image009.jpg
 

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The new 2001 Elantra cam is even better than the 1.8L elantra cam.

Batlord managed about 17 HP to the wheels with the same mods, but no BIM or BTB, and he was an automatic tranny. I would say you should clear 20 HP to the wheels with a 5 speed.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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But the 2001 elantra cam won't work as the new beta has a mechanical valvetrain, while the older beta motors have a hydraulic valvetrain. If u put those cams in, there will be some bad mojo happening.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Confucius say,
"man with hand in pocket all day not crazy, just feeling nuts"


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the input guys.
That would put me at the same hp as a stock '74 260z - 160hp.
I loved my z car - of course it had about 200hp with headers and dual webers.
I am very pleased with the torque increase from the header and cam. Much better acceleration. Will have to wait for bim/bbtb.
Christmas is too soon!
<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0 align=middle>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, AOS CAI, Elantra 1.8l cam, Shark 421 header, custom exhaust, every option avail.
http://www.disciplers.org/Scotto46_files/image009.jpg
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
But the 2001 elantra cam won't work as the new beta has a mechanical valvetrain, while the older beta motors have a hydraulic valvetrain. If u put those cams in, there will be some bad mojo happening.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Confucius say,
"man with hand in pocket all day not crazy, just feeling nuts"


http://www.geocities.com/skierd007/index.html
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Red has it in his car, and it is running fine and kicking butt over the old 1.8L elantra cam. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/moon.gif width=15 height=15 border=0 align=middle>

The change in the cam profile/design is not significant enough to cause any problem in the valves or HLA's.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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question...
where can you get this cam at?
also how would you go about getting a 2.0l head from the tuscani ... the one without the HLA's?? and isn't it the same head that is on the current elantra anyways?
im just curious
 

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are you guys talking about the factory cam sprockets? because they're only like 20 bucks a piece <img src=/images/forums/snitz/tongue.gif width=15 height=15 border=0 align=middle>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>oops... i think i ate it
 

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First... We are not talking about sprockets, we are talking about the WHOLE cam. A sprocket would do absolutely nothing.

Second... About the engine that's being used in the Tuscani, we don't even know if it's a BETA yet. It makes more sense that the new 2.0L motor will NOT be a BETA but instead (I think) the Delta -- whatever "model" the 2.7L V6 is. The reason? Alpha's, Beta's, Delta's all have different connection points. Using the same frame of a car but two entirely different connection points on the motor would be expensive and pointless. You are thinking of the new Elantra motors having solid lifter valvetrains, but the gains in switching to this style of cylinder head has yet to even be discused. I'm operating on the assumption that the head casting is identical to the HLA head casting -- the only difference would be the valve stem lenghts and the shim buckets and springs. If that is indeed the case, there is NO performance benefit going to the solid lifter head.

Third... The stock Tiburon camshaft is a 238-degree, the 1.8L Elantra is a 242, and the new 2.0L Elantra is a 246. The problem is, degrees only tell you so much. What is the lift, what is the duration at 0.050" lift? What is the ramp rate? There's a lot more to a camshaft profile than just the number of degrees it stays open.

Fourth and last... You would get the 2001.5 Elantra GT intake cam from -- guess? Howabout your dealer?

-Red-
 

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I have seen on HDK that says the stock Tib cam is a 228...at any rate, where did you get the numbers on the cams? If those numbers are correct, then I will deffinitely consider taking them...however you didn't answer my question on accel or hp gains.

Matt


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Mateus,

I <b>cannot</b> answer your question on horsepower or accel gains because nobody has any hard evidence supporting any change. The stock cams on a 2.0L Tiburon intake are 238, but the stock cams on the exhaust side are smaller -- perhaps it's the exhaust side they are referring to.

What I'm trying to make you understand is that buying cams simply on "Degrees" is total BS. There are LOTS of variables that make a cam perform, and I just listed a few: total duration, total lift, duration at 0.050" lift, ramp rate, lobe seperation and lobe timing.

The folks in Korea are very unwilling to supply any more than just "degrees" and as such I'd be very weary of buying them. The cams I'm buying for my project car have nearly ALL the stats I wanted. I know total lift, total duration, duration at 0.050", lobe timing and total lobe seperation. The only thing I don't have is ramp rate, and quite honestly since the cams were specifically built for hydraulic lifters, I'm not concerned about it.

-Red-
 

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Where in the hell is the edit button on this forum? <img src=/images/forums/snitz/angry.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

In any case, the stock duration of the 2.0L Tiburon intake cam is not 238, it's 240. The exhaust is 232, that's where they're getting that number. It still doesn't matter, degrees might change, but what about lift? You'll never know...

-Red-
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know that the 1.8l has been dynoed to show a hp increase, and it DOES have more lift and duration.
I don't have all the facts , but trust Random from TSR.
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<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2001 blue Tibby, leather, cd, custom racing stripes, AOS CAI, Elantra 1.8l cam, Shark 421 header, custom exhaust, every option avail.
http://www.disciplers.org/Scotto46_files/image009.jpg
 

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The specs on the 1.8 and 2.0 cams are as follows
1.8L
Cam Height: Intake 44.449mm
Cam Height: Exhaust 45.049
Journal OD: 28mm
Bearing oil clearance: 0-.025mm
End Play: .1-.2mm
8 degrees more duration . Intake open event is advanced by 5 degrees, intake close event is retarded by 3 degrees, for a total of 8 more degrees of open angle.
2.0L
Cam Height: Intake 44.049mm
Cam Height: Exhaust 45.049
Journal OD: 28mm
Bearing oil clearance 0-.025
End Play: .1-.2mm
Pin OD: 45mm
<b></b><b></b><img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0><b></b><b></b>


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