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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One big question - accuracy of "retail" prices listed in Edmonds (others?? - any sugg?) for older cars, in well above avg shape for this age?
Edmonds listed 2007 Elantra @ $1800 retail (wife said). Entered the VIN, so assume they know the state (not from north w/ rust from salt).

* Are Edmonds (or others??) retail value fairly accurate for older cars in great shape, in specific states? We're in largest metro area in South.
Or in some regions do cars tend to sell lower / higher vs. Blue Book, Edmunds, etc? Esp. older cars, below avg miles, in great shape?

I know it's old. Despite "blue book," I couldn't buy as reliable, mech. sound, perfect driving car for 2X $1800 - or maybe not for much more?

Have 2007 Elantra (GLX?) new, expnsve tires/- power dr locks & windows/tilt str/AC (Great!)/new brakes +calipers+turned rotors/after mkt alarm (or factory), exclnt paint - some is new .
Below avg miles (123 K)
Starts 1st crank AND fast. Performs flawlessly from cold or hot start (from 25 to 100 deg air temp)
Runs & drives flawlessly.
Feels basically like when it was new. I've worked on cars for 50 yrs (Dad was mechanic in army).

* Accident on 8/12/2022, guy ran redlight - Hit qtr panel; & edge of back door - nearest to tire; (assume pushed door frame in some, at TIRE ht. );
rear whl pushed in a few in. on leading edge of tire;
  • Not sure what prob. needs repair BEHIND the pushed in rear whl OR the cost.
  • Damage to qtr panel & door - limited mostly to height of the tire & below. Didn't affect tail light / bumper/trunk lid.
  • One Air bag deployed - beside & above driver's head (not front bag).

Here, if can't drive car away, even if you have your own wrecker on scene, the county tows to THEIR lot, & charges ??? / day (not tow MILES closer to your house).
* County won't let our insur. adj look at it until we go to county lot & "prove" ownership. It's registered in both our names & correct address. She had DL & proof of insur - IN THE CAR. They KNOW who owners are.

*** Our Insur. (St. Farm Lloyds) is forcing us to pick a shop (our choice), OR off their "preferred list" - where it'll BE TOWED, BEFORE they'll give any cost est.
Guessing the insur or shop feel they have upper hand, once it's at a shop.
** Anything others here feel are important, please chime in. Thanks to everyone..

St Fm says any shop on their list, they "guarantee the work's done right", or redo as needed. I've not seen that "guarantee" in writing.

* I'm VERY concerned St Fm's (or a shop's) repair est. will be > than car's "blue book" value.
Also guessing I could sell it for OVER blue book (to individuals) , once they drove it.
* NORMALLY, I wouldn't want much bondo filler work. But if Insur. est is >> more than "book value," I'd consider some filler vs. cut & weld - depending on difference in repair est & MAX insurance will pay, to keep driving a reliable car.

* For THIS car, I'd probably be OK paying extra OOP. How MUCH extra, not sure.

But, I know nothing of any shop on their list (some dealers, or not), or any others, except one I used - NOT on St Fm's list. No body work in 9 - 10 yrs.
Back then, used small, indep. shop - guy was a "master" & worked to get MORE repair / painting, for LESS than insur. had allowed. Haven't heard back from him yet.

Guessing, once towed to a body shop, if we REALLY don't like what we hear & see, we'll have to pay to tow somewhere ??

A guy ran red light as wife was turning onto the same road (opposite direct.) of the other driver.
Since no cameras & NO cars in busy area stopped - to render aid or give stmt, Our insur. says "can't prove fault," so we'll (force) to claim under your collision.
Won't even chk if driver(s) were on phone at time of crash (too much trouble).
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