you can not drif a ff car
perfect setup?
i need a setup that not only reduces body roll, but remains soft (kinda) at the same time.... i'm building a drift car. what combination of spring rates and shock absorbtion (dampening) should i go with?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
and f&f3 begins to set in to the world :
i'm using a rwd car. i've been into drifting way before f&f3 came out also..... i went to my first drift event when i was in maryland at fed ex field. it was a drift clinic with the falken drift team.
depends on the style of the rear suspension
i have eibach pro kit and they mad the car nicely stiff while still moving on the bumps for even stiffer though go with the eibach sportline
oh and you can drift in a fwd it is just a little different
i have eibach pro kit and they mad the car nicely stiff while still moving on the bumps for even stiffer though go with the eibach sportline
oh and you can drift in a fwd it is just a little different
What car are you using? Can't make recommendations if we don't know what kind of car.
^^^ Just what I was thinking. You wouldn't go to a vet to find out why your stomach hurts so why post here about a Japanese FR from the early 90's?
Car guys aren't necessarily car guys for all makes.
Car guys aren't necessarily car guys for all makes.
I would if I felt like it.... but seeing as though suspension setups such as spring and strut combinations are pretty much universal on rates and dampening pressures, I figured i'd ask here. (also dont have to go thru registering BS)Originally posted by ftwvampftw
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go to a nissan forum
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Dont you want to tighten the back up as much as possible to promote oversteer??
^^^^ i'm thinking that too, so change to a bigger diameter sway bar out back and leave the front alone so it wont induce understeer. but if its too big out back, it'll upset the balance of the car correct? i dont know to get a set rate bar or a 3 way adjustable...
If you get adjustable you could dial it in.. get a set bar and if its not right :dead:
"drift setup" and "soft" rarely go together.
Though really, you can drift any setup right from stock tune with the proper techniques.
First off, do you have a LSD? No drift car should be without one. No matter the shocks or springs, you are crippling yourself at the start without one. I'm not saying you can't drift without one, I'm just saying I'd rather drift stock springs/shocks with LSD than the other way around.
It's also a easier to initiate a throttle-lift drift with a 2-way LSD in there.
Are your bushings shot? Mushy, stretched and worn? Replace them all!!
If you got LSD, then I would start with someting really simple that can help you initiate the drift... like a brake pad with more bite in the rear than the front. This will really help when you are initiating a braking drift.
Also, maybe a clutch with more bite that can help with your clutch-kick initiations. Starting the drift is often the hardest part. S13/14 drivers seem to really like powering over because of all the torque they got. So be a step ahead and arm yourself with all these other techniques.
Sway bars reduce roll without sacrificing ride quality... they are great. Stiffer/bigger rear bar will help you kick the rear out but ...
I found, for me, running an upgraded FRONT sway bar and stock rear made it a lot easier to hold and mantain angle during a drift. Rear-only upgrade gave problems keeping the rear from staying at the rear. A lot more spinning happening. But we drive different cars so it may totally be different.
Anyhow, before you think about any kind of 'drift upgrades', the first thing that needs to be done is to refresh everything to tip-top stock shape first. All lines/hoses checked, bushings all in good shape, tie rods and ball joints all tight. Tranny shifts fine, engine revs smooth, all master/slave cylinders in check and running well, brakes have no quirks etc etc etc....
If anything is marginal on your car.... drifting will SURELY break it... and it'll always happen in the middle a drift session.
Though really, you can drift any setup right from stock tune with the proper techniques.
First off, do you have a LSD? No drift car should be without one. No matter the shocks or springs, you are crippling yourself at the start without one. I'm not saying you can't drift without one, I'm just saying I'd rather drift stock springs/shocks with LSD than the other way around.
It's also a easier to initiate a throttle-lift drift with a 2-way LSD in there.
Are your bushings shot? Mushy, stretched and worn? Replace them all!!
If you got LSD, then I would start with someting really simple that can help you initiate the drift... like a brake pad with more bite in the rear than the front. This will really help when you are initiating a braking drift.
Also, maybe a clutch with more bite that can help with your clutch-kick initiations. Starting the drift is often the hardest part. S13/14 drivers seem to really like powering over because of all the torque they got. So be a step ahead and arm yourself with all these other techniques.
Sway bars reduce roll without sacrificing ride quality... they are great. Stiffer/bigger rear bar will help you kick the rear out but ...
I found, for me, running an upgraded FRONT sway bar and stock rear made it a lot easier to hold and mantain angle during a drift. Rear-only upgrade gave problems keeping the rear from staying at the rear. A lot more spinning happening. But we drive different cars so it may totally be different.
Anyhow, before you think about any kind of 'drift upgrades', the first thing that needs to be done is to refresh everything to tip-top stock shape first. All lines/hoses checked, bushings all in good shape, tie rods and ball joints all tight. Tranny shifts fine, engine revs smooth, all master/slave cylinders in check and running well, brakes have no quirks etc etc etc....
If anything is marginal on your car.... drifting will SURELY break it... and it'll always happen in the middle a drift session.
thanx for that response.. right now, i initiate with clutch kicks or feints and then proceed to power over. i only touch the e-brake to keep the drift going when i feel that certain grip point coming on (dunno how to explain it). the car is all stock except 17 inch wheels with tires that have a stiff sidewall and a hard compound. i do not have an lsd yet, but am looking for one in my price range.
i dont really understand throttle lift drifts. i tried it by feinting first and it still did not work out too good for me.
i dont really understand throttle lift drifts. i tried it by feinting first and it still did not work out too good for me.
This is what a guy here have on his 200sx s13 (you will probably find stuff from the same manufacter for your car also):
Suspension
Tein Super Drift coilovers 10/8 kgf/(mm)
Tein Camber plates
Tein Pillow ball tension rod
Tein Tie rod + tie rod end
A-T-S Deftforce 2-way metal LSD
Uprated swaybars
Custom made hard bushing kit
Engine:
GREX Piston Kit CA1 8 83,5 φ
GREX Connecting Rod Set
Nismo 555ccm fuel injectors
Nismo GT-R Fuel pump
GReddy Turbine Kit TD05-14B
GReddy External wastegate with Screamer pipe
GReddy Blow off Valve Type-S
GReddy Front Mount Inter Cooler Kit V-SPL
GReddy Power ExtremeII 80mm exhaust
GReddy Racing Plug PRO JIS P08
GReddy Metal Head Gasket 2 mm
GReddy e - manage engine managment with ignition and injection harness
GReddy Profec E- 01 boost controler
GReddy SM Integrate Controll Units
GReddy SM Integrate Turbo Meter, Oil Pressure Meter, Oil Temp Meter,Exhaust Temp Meter
GReddy Shift Knob N-B
A'pexi Power Intake Air Filter
Skyline RB20DET air flow sensor
Z32 fuel filter
Primera Diesel oil filter
Flex-a-lite heavy duty oil cooler
Custom increased holding capacity clutch kit
Twin electric fans
EDIT: HE IS GOOD WITH HIS CAR!
[Edited by 1e0n on Jul 20, 2006 3:56 PM]
Suspension
Tein Super Drift coilovers 10/8 kgf/(mm)
Tein Camber plates
Tein Pillow ball tension rod
Tein Tie rod + tie rod end
A-T-S Deftforce 2-way metal LSD
Uprated swaybars
Custom made hard bushing kit
Engine:
GREX Piston Kit CA1 8 83,5 φ
GREX Connecting Rod Set
Nismo 555ccm fuel injectors
Nismo GT-R Fuel pump
GReddy Turbine Kit TD05-14B
GReddy External wastegate with Screamer pipe
GReddy Blow off Valve Type-S
GReddy Front Mount Inter Cooler Kit V-SPL
GReddy Power ExtremeII 80mm exhaust
GReddy Racing Plug PRO JIS P08
GReddy Metal Head Gasket 2 mm
GReddy e - manage engine managment with ignition and injection harness
GReddy Profec E- 01 boost controler
GReddy SM Integrate Controll Units
GReddy SM Integrate Turbo Meter, Oil Pressure Meter, Oil Temp Meter,Exhaust Temp Meter
GReddy Shift Knob N-B
A'pexi Power Intake Air Filter
Skyline RB20DET air flow sensor
Z32 fuel filter
Primera Diesel oil filter
Flex-a-lite heavy duty oil cooler
Custom increased holding capacity clutch kit
Twin electric fans
EDIT: HE IS GOOD WITH HIS CAR!
[Edited by 1e0n on Jul 20, 2006 3:56 PM]
is it a ka24 (single or double overhead) or sr20det motor?
when they are talking about lift throttle rotation it is normally because of a really aggressive rear suspension setup like on sport compact cars 350z if you lift throttle while in the corner the car would have a tendency to lift up on the rear suspension and cause the weight of the car to come off of the rear tires bringing the car into oversteer
the things i would invest in
back issues of josh jaquet's flat black silva found in various issues of sport compact car
rear brakes off of a 300zx
i think a lsd out of a 300zx will work as well
mabey a sr20det just because of the ease of higher horsepower
and i would start buying a lot of rear bumpers and trunklids:evil:
the things i would invest in
back issues of josh jaquet's flat black silva found in various issues of sport compact car
rear brakes off of a 300zx
i think a lsd out of a 300zx will work as well
mabey a sr20det just because of the ease of higher horsepower
and i would start buying a lot of rear bumpers and trunklids:evil:
i get what ur talkin bout. i think i just need more wheel time on the track...
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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