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Performance chips... worth it?

30K views 51 replies 16 participants last post by  Zakie@TIC 
#1 ·
Someone on another forum mentioned the only reputable company making a performance chip for the Hyundai's was Powerchip. I looked in to it, and found out that it's nothing to make a snap decision on. Without knowing more than that basics of what performance chips do, has anyone ever had the Powerchip (or for that matter, any chip) installed? Worth it or is this a just a money pit?

Not a cheap one either, at $490... and this GT+ Tunerbox i see some people talk about that's on eBay for 25 bucks has to be a piece of junk... right?
 
#2 ·
There is pretty much no plug/play solution for Hyundais because they have a difficult computer. Everything you will see good gains with is going to run a few hundred dollars and require at least a laptop to tune. Plugin resistor modules != power adder. Go for bolt-on modifications first.
 
#3 ·
I wasn't planning on even worrying about the chip until after at least a CAI, but I was interested. Powerchip is still the only company I see to go with, is there a way to reprogram the ECU with just a laptop and some software, rather than sending the entire ECU off (seems like a hassle)?
 
#4 ·
i have seen a few member's have their accent 1.6L ecu done by powerchip but gains were marginal,

probably about 3-5 HP gain..but drivability and powercurve were much smoother,

for $490..you can get a Intake, header and exhaust and pick up abot 5-7 horsepower
and take out your spare, tools and back seats, it'll make the car lighter and handle more nimbler...
 
#8 ·
powerchip is a great company i know one of the owners Dennis Johnson u get around 10hp but its smoother and runs way better if alot of people want chip i could ask him for a group buy and it would be much cheaper..Also i have talked about a tubo chip which they will do but they would need at least 30 people thats want a turbo set up..
 
#9 ·
ok. I live in South Africa and you get Powerchip here(imported).. not bad. I opted for a complete stand alone system. works good on my 98 tib. but on the newer tibby's with more "brains" in the computer box... not a good idea. alotta guys here install SMT6 to their late model Hyundais. not a bad system at all. maybe its old news to you guys already since we still in the stone age here...? dunno.
 
#10 ·
Yeah, I'm not heartbroken or anything, I really just wanted something to run my intake, exaust, and other mods as best they could be run, figured a chip would be the best for that.
 
#39 ·
I've had Powerchip (Travis Cattach was my contact)reflash my '05 Tib GT after I added and AEM CAI and a Borla exhaust in 11/08. I'm convinced from a seat of the pants perspective alone (no dyno) that it made a significant difference. Ride seems faster from 3000-6000 rpms and smoother too. The others are right....there aren't too many solutions for Tib owners...
 
#11 ·
I have the Hyundai Loader software but I have no idea what software to tune the chip with and or the cable to hook it up to car. From the reading I have found they are bosch me7 clones basically very similar to those in bmw's etc. Not alot of people want to touch these ecu's in Oz that I know of one place only.
 
#13 ·
dude
since you have a tib, look at Haltech.

the interceptor or miniceptor.

these are "PLUG AND PLAY" as have base maps for the excel and tiburon.
you can alter air, fuel and ignition stuff to add extra power, and the best part is that all you need is a laptop as it comes with software and data cables to allow you to modifiy and make changes at home.

however i reckon for the "first time" do it at a shop.

also you can have 2 maps on the ECU and switch them over when you want to by a simple switch.
e.g performance mode and economy.

have a look into it.
Interceptor - Haltech Engine Management Systems

RPW is a place that sells them for hyundai and mitsibushi
Racing Performance Works - Haltech
 
#14 ·
Those look nice, and I would like something that allows me to tune via laptop, but both are over $700USD... for that I could install the Powerchip ($490) and then some. Wasn't really looking to go that high for just the chip.

Also, if I did go with that chip, the compatibility sheet says its only compatible with the '04 I4 2.0L Tib, mine being an '03 V6 2.7L, would that even work?
 
#16 ·
one of the problems with a powerchip or similar ECU reflash is that once the changes are made, that is it.

so you could set it up for power to match your current mods, but for any reason that you change something, exhaust or intake, cam timing, fuels whatever the powerchiped ecu will be reading wrong thefore not making the best gains for your set-up.

the haltech on the other hand is able to be changed very easily and at no cost to you (if using a laptop).

the way i look at it is long term, $500 for powerchip now, and maybe a couple of years later when you upgrade something another $500. or if the situation changes... another $500.

OR

$700 now and the ability to do what you want with it, advance retard ignition, change air maps, fuel maps etc to suit what you want to do with it.
Hell you can even set up maps to allow for nitrous, i'd like to see the powerchip do that !!

$700 for life or as long as you have the car.


AND, you can eailsy remove it and revert back to stock if you sell it, with the powerchip once you reflash the ECU, that's it, you cannot return to stock at all.

food for thought



.
 
#19 ·
IMO, Haltech is not worth a damn (and trust me i've had expirience with them all). For the cost of a haltech I'd rather go with a Megasquirt. Its alittle more 'advanced' up front but in the end it will allow the user to learn more in-depth about how things work plus has the same amount of features (actually i think MS has more, and you can always add on).

If your only doing an intake/exhaust setup, honestly i wouldnt bother throwing the cash down for an ECU tune, Sure you'll gain alittle, but there are far better things you could do to improve vehicle performance for that cost and gain more.
 
#18 ·
one of the problems with a powerchip or similar ECU reflash is that once the changes are made, that is it.
That's a good point, I hadn't thought of that. I never had any strong convictions toward the Powerchip really, it just seemed like the only option before I found out about this one. Honestly, I really would prefer that one, it may just be a little longer because of the price. Even with the price, I'm glad to know about it cause the variety of options for chips seems slim.
 
#20 ·
I hear about Megasquirt all the time actually, never knew much about it. Where's the info/ordering for it? All I see on Google are instructions, diagrams, and forums.
 
#25 ·
Seoulful Racing also does ECU reflashes. UNless you're going beyond I/H/E any standalone is overkill. A piggyback can work pretty well, but since the ECU's try to correct things it won't ever be able to hold you at the optimum tune, just improve vs. stock. From the factory Hyundais tend to run pig rich and leaning things out a bit with a fuel tuning piggyback can make a fairly major difference.
 
#26 ·
True that, but Justin Inc has a point. With an ECU reflash, the data flashed on to it reflects the specifics of the mods at the time, and I'd rather not have to reflash the ECU every time I made a major change to the engine set up. Though standalones may be overkill, they do give you the advantage of being able to be reprogrammed by the user, not the company.

BUT if you are talking about reflashing the ECU with a laptop and some software, I would like to know more, because that would be the best option seems to me and what I'd rather do.
 
#27 ·
Nope, not a DIY reflash, but you can change the piggyback's tune yourself.

Megasquirt isn't as easy to install as most people make it out to be. It takes a lot more to get a Hyundai running on it than buying or building one because it doesn't work really well with our sensors and coils in the standard form. The only plug and play standalone for the GK Tibs is the Hydra for the V6 and it's $2500.

If you want to see the problems getting Megasquirt running on a street driven Hyundai go over to rdtiburon.com and look at the thread Wtf Is This? PnP Megasquirt ECU. It's pretty informative.
 
#28 ·
I can agree that Megasquirt to a 'new' or novice user is not idealy the way to go and can cause numerous problems, however its not all that bad to get up and going, its time consuming and really its all about attention to detail when installing and wiring it up, the more time you take and the more you understand things the easier it really is. I've done MS installs on a whack load of vehicles (Even converted carb vehicles to MS EFI) and its not that bad really (then again i've got years of experience with it)

One thing i do not agree with is 'piggybacks', they are the devil of all and IMO a good way to **** something up, alot of people have great success and there have been a retarded amount of people that have had bad luck (myself included, and it only took once to realize that it wasnt worth it to even THINK of that as a possibility anymore.
 
#29 ·
With MS the unforeseen problem (for most people wanting to put it on their daily driver) is that it's difficult to get things like cruise control and air conditioning to work right. That is of course assuming you're not a MS expert, which I and most other people are not. It's far easier to convert from carburated to MS than to integrate it into an already computer controlled car, and the newer the cars get the harder it is unless people have already fought through it and figured out how to make it all work and posted the info somewhere.

As far as piggybacks go, it's FAR easier to do and do well than MS is, but it is not even close to the same league as a standalone. The SAFC can get an extra 10+whp out of a N/A Beta 2.0l with wideband on-road tuning. For FI that's another story altogether, and a standalone is not overkill at all IMO.
 
#30 ·
With MS the unforeseen problem (for most people wanting to put it on their daily driver) is that it's difficult to get things like cruise control and air conditioning to work right. That is of course assuming you're not a MS expert, which I and most other people are not. It's far easier to convert from carburated to MS than to integrate it into an already computer controlled car, and the newer the cars get the harder it is unless people have already fought through it and figured out how to make it all work and posted the info somewhere.
I can agree that the cruise control may be hard to get working, however the A/C is far simpler than anyone could imagine. The A/C system basically works itself, the only thing the engine ECU does is compensate for engine load for when the A/C compressor turns on. I would have to disagree that converting a carb'd engine to EFI is simpler, especially when no one had ever done it on that particular engine, and everything was custom made (Chrysler Slant6)

As far as piggybacks go, it's FAR easier to do and do well than MS is, but it is not even close to the same league as a standalone. The SAFC can get an extra 10+whp out of a N/A Beta 2.0l with wideband on-road tuning. For FI that's another story altogether, and a standalone is not overkill at all IMO.
again, yes piggyback is easier, but its still a shoddy halfassed way to do things even N/A. Sure you get fuel control but you'll never get the FULL benefit of doing a complete tune (fuel, timing and more)
 
#31 ·
Current projects are intake and exhaust and headers and such. Very soon to come are, assuming no one corrects me on this one, a new torque converter (need more info on how vital this is though) and performance carburetor. And sometime very far, far away I'd like to put an Alpine supercharger on it.

This is likely as far as I'll go, performance wise, least as far as I can see now. For these things, minus the supercharger for now, where would be the best place to go for a computer mod of some kind that would run these things to their potential?
 
#32 ·
Torque converter will help alittle, but useless really, your running stock cams so dont worry about it the gain wont be worth the cost. as for a 'performance carburator'..... ummmmm......:eek: not much i'm going to say on that, other than EFI vehicles do not have carbs...

a supercharger would be a wise dependable power adder, but kind of a waste really. (superchargers are great, till they heat soak) honestly, i'd forget about doing any efi tuning, the BS and cost again will not be worth the gain for basic mods.
 
#33 ·
I won't defend my statement about the carb at all. Honestly, I'm new to working on cars in general, performance and otherwise. Started looking in to it when I got the Tib. All EFI meant to me was a carb controlled by a computer. Apparently I was way off on that one! :eek:

Assuming I got new cams, would make the torque converter a worth while venture? I was planning on the cams anyway at some point, this is why I ask. If a computer mod isn't even necessary for the things I've listed, that's just as well. That's what I was in this to figure out in the first place! :D
 
#34 ·
You're sort of on the right track to EFI being a computer controlled carb, its just a shitton more complicated than that lol.

If you did cams, then yes a looser converter would help alot providing you can 'hook up' traction wise. At this moment and time, if i were you i wouldnt bother with ECU tuning. If you do plan to go 'big' down the road, i would REALLY invest in a megasquirt or some other stand-alone engine management system.
 
#41 ·
Hi guys, Its no rocket science to tune and reflash a Siemens / Bosch or even the Mitsubishi ECU that comes on the KIA/Hyundai's as we've been doing this for sometime now. We have access to all areas in the map such as the Limiters, Fuel and ignition maps etc. Im willing to offer a deal to the first 10 guys from the forum who would get the ECU's re-flashed by us at a 50% discount.

Regards,

Zakie
Tuned I-Chips
 
#45 ·
So, what is the price of getting an ECU reflashed?

Have you reflashed a U.S spec Hyundai ECU?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean for a DIY job on the ECU. I understand the EPROM desoldering and removal, and mailing it to you, but then what would happen? You would reprogram the EPROM and mail it back to be soldered back into place? How does this route differ from mailing you an entire ECU to reflash? The same result but cheaper shipping?
 
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