[JonGTR]

Well, I am sorry to say that my 96 Accent GT has started to reach old age.<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> I have abused it way too much and it has grown tired from constantly feeling the gas and brake pedals grinding the floor. It is still drivable and feels great but I had just replaced the transmission from slaming gears in my early years and can not afford anymore supprise breakdowns. I have decided to trade my 5 1/2 year old car along with my precious memories that have been created with it. I feel the only good that can come from this is from buying a new Tiburon.<img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

I hope that you all agree and help me through my transition by helping me to buy a new Tib. I'm not very experienced with buying cars because my parents helped me buy the Accent. I mostly had no part in it except agreeing to make the payments. I would really like to own the V6 Tiburon but that can't happen right now.

The questions I have are:
What kind of price can I hope to get with a package 5 2001 seeing that they are starting to become last years model?
Would it be economicle to buy one now and trade it in when the V6 comes out? Will I lose that much?
What kind of trade-in value should I EXPECT with my Accent? Am I gonna get shafted?<img src=icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle>

Please give me all the info. and tricks you can.<img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[4doorGL]

1) There should be VERY good rebates on the 2001 models when the GK Tib hits the showroom. I'd expect about $2000 off of the MSRP.

2) If you buy a new Tib now, don't expect to trade it in for a couple of years. Otherwise you will be upside down.

3) The trade in value for your Accent will only be about $2000 or so, but they will low ball you so fight to get it higher.

<img src="http://63.102.174.92/upload/4doorGLSig.gif" border=0>

 

[JonGTR]

Well, I'm looking at insurance quotes also and they don't look too good. I'm getting $200/mo. with 1 not at fault accident.
Anyways, what have you guys paid for your Tiburons? I'm thinking I could talk them into $16000. Is that reasonable?

 

[Kevdog]

Go to www.autobytel.com or one of the similar websites. You should be able to get pretty much whatever you want at $400 above invoice. They will find you a dealer in the area who will give you that price (no questions asked).

Then you just have to watch out for them trying to gouge you in interest rates. I'd advise going to a bank and getting a quote for a car loan, or using one of the online ones (like lendingtree.com) to get a loan set up ahead of time.

I got the loan ahead of time on my last car (wish I could remember the site). It worked out really well, as the dealer was more than willing to match the interest rate I already had with the online loan (they want your money!).

Also check bluebook for your car (www.kellysbluebook.com I think). You should be able to get near (maybe 10% under) the bluebook for the car. It may be best to sell it seperately as you'll get more money for it, then have one less hassle when going to buy the new one.

Between the autobytel and the prearranged loan, I got my last Tibby (2000) for $14,500 after taxes and everything (it was the standard, no options except cargo net and a few small things). I put $4000 down and have payments of $220/month <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

Let me know if you have any questions.. I've (unfortunatley) bought 4 new cars in the last 5 years (don't ask! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>).

2000 Red Tiburon
1999 Blue Tiburon w/Shark Wing

 

[TypeRShark]

16,000 are you crazy? I traded my 96 neon on a brand new 2001 tiburon and 11,500 for mine.
Note that the neon had over 100,000 on it too.

 

[pbhou]

i JUST got an 01 pkg 4 for 15,500 and only put 2,000 down on her..and no trade in, so you can do better than that w/ a trade in.<img src=icon_smile_sleepy.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[ravdav]

come up to wilden's hyundai in las vegas... that's where I work now, woohoo, selling the cars that I love. I'll hook you up. The MSRP vs. dealer price isn't that huge of a spread on hyundais... but you ought to come check some of this **** out, they are having some great steals on tiburons... they are over 1 year old (being on lots and stuff) and they are clearing them out pretty fast. They already have all the 2003 tiburon posters up, and in all our catolouges and stuff!

wilden hyundai, come ask for dave mosier hehe. whassup, advertisement for me <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[JonGTR]

Well, I went to the dealer last night and they gave me a price of $270 mo. That is with a package 5 without sunroof. It is also red which I don't want. The problem is, that's all they have. They have sold everything else and will get no more in.
I was not told the interest rate so I don't know the drive out cost of the car. That quote is WITHOUT trade-in.
What do you think of those payments?
The bluebook for my car is $5000. What do you think I should ask them to knock off the end price?

 

[Jonas666]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>JonGTR:"they gave me a price of $270 mo. That is with a package 5 without sunroof. It is also red which I don't want"[/quote]</font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Well, they're misquoting you since the package 5 is only with a sunroof. If there is no roof then it's either a package 3 or 4. We'll assume it's a package 4

The car should then be:

16,068 with freight included, less a $500 customer rebate, so:
$15,568.

If the dealer really wants to clear them out, they've got almost $1500 to play with on this deal.

Seriously though, get the package in writing, package 5 always has the sunroof.

By the way, you shouldn't be able to get more than $3,000 for that trade-in on that car.

2000 Red Tiburon SE /w Leather
17" TSW VX-1's /w Toyo Proxes FZ4
Custom CAI, Vibrant Exhaust, Underdrive Pulley
12" Kicker Competitions, Cobalt amps, MTX powered x-over, phoenix gold cap, clarion cd

 

[Kevdog]

You better check.... $270/month for around $16000 sounds a lot like a 6 year loan. 5 year is much better (otherwise if you have to sell or want to trade in, you'll be way behind on value versus what you still owe).

On a 5 year loan for $16000 you'd be more around $320/month (depending on interest rate).

Add in taxes, license fees, etc (~$1000) and you're at $17000. Take of $3000 for the trade in (try for $4000). and you're back at $14000. Which at 8% would be $283 for a 60 month (5 year) loan.

Is that the only Hyundai dealer in town? Check others in your area.

2000 Red Tiburon
1999 Blue Tiburon w/Shark Wing

 

[JonGTR]

Well, they were really evasive about details. I have to admit that I wasn't prepared when I went to the dealership. I only wanted to let my girlfriend look at the car but got dragged into the office.
They didn't give me any details about the loan. They first started to say that they would deduct 1500-2000 off the sticker then 1.5% above invoice. After some calculations they came up with $300/mo. I didn't like that so they kept lowering it till they got to $270 which is what they originally told me they could get anyways. It seems to me like they are offering me sticker price at 0% interest. I made an appointment so they can look at my Accent and give me a trade in value.
I also checked with the other dealer and it just so happens that they have the color/options I want in the last 2 they have. I may check them out today armed with the deal I got from last nights dealer. If they come close or below then I'll probably be driving home with it. This time I'm more prepared with the financing and insurance. I finally found insurance that's $127/mo. for 10 months. That's by far the best in town.

Wish me luck!<img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[pbhou]

these guys aren't just going to give you a lower price...you have to negotiate it. BUT...they know they make their real money on the deal on how HMC pays them in their bonuses. they want to move the cars as quickly as possible...AND...i bet it's NOT true that they're not getting any more in...

and dont fantasize that yer gonna get the blue book value on yer trade-in...not gonna happen. if i were you, i'd use the trade-in to water down the deal and not give them any additional down payment...the salesmen aren't the ones who get your interest rate for you...you're gonna get what yer gonna get. so don't worry about the interest rate. THEN...after you pick the car up...take the money you were gonna use for a down payment and pay it the first month on your monthly payment...that way you're ahead AND you're shaving down the principal...if you drop the cash as a down payment it's not getting you ahead... don't get too obsessive about having a low interest rate...the most important thing is how much is the car going to cost. and one more thing that will save you interest and pay the loan off early is...instead of making monthly payments, make a bi-weekly payment of half the monthly payment...pay half the amount every 2 weeks...that way you get an extra month's payment in every year PLUS by paying half the monthly amount earlier in the month it goes straight to the principal thus reducing your interest payment amount in the long run. all of which puts more money in YOUR pocket.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_sleepy.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[Jonas666]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>pbhou:"if you drop the cash as a down payment it's not getting you ahead... "<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Sure if will. Doing a larger downpayment is exactly the same as making a huge first payment.

2000 Red Tiburon SE /w Leather
17" TSW VX-1's /w Toyo Proxes FZ4
Custom CAI, Vibrant Exhaust, Underdrive Pulley
12" Kicker Competitions, Cobalt amps, MTX powered x-over, phoenix gold cap, clarion cd

 

[GhostWerm]

Here is some advice i can give you that helped my secure a good price on my 01 tib:<P>
#1 STAY OUT OF THE DEALERSHIPS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. Use the telephone to talk to these people and if they insist you come "take a test drive" or whatever just tell them your not interested. The best way to buy a car is running a "fax merathon" fax all the dealers in your area and ask them to give you a quote. then fax or call them back and say "so and so dealership is $1000 less than you, can you beat it" Just stay away from the dealerships period. as soon as you step into the office or a negotiating table, you are shark food and they will eat you like yesterday's breakfast <img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>. dont let them "get to know you" during a test drive. they don't want to be your friend when they casually ask if you have kids or "what do you do for a living". They are screening you to make sure you are a legitimate buyer and they will alter the end price according to your personal lifestyle.<P>
#2 you already made the first car buying newbie mistake by letting them know you will be trading a car in. they are going to alter the end price of the car to adjust for the trade-in...especially if the tib has a $500 manufacter rebate like they used to. not only are they going to lowball your car..there going to subtract the rebate, so they can pocket that too. always tell them you have a trade-in AFTER you finalize the deal. "Do you have a trade-in" is the first question that they will ask you. Lie to them and give a definate "No" then after the final price is done say...you know ive been thinking...maybe i will trade the car in...
<P>
#3 dont take any crap from them. If they do something that isn't fair, tell them they suck and then walk out or hang up the phone.<P>
#4 reasearch how to buy a car on the internet. there are tons of great sites that tell you everything from what "dead cost" is to dealer tricks and traps to avoid. Ive done so much research on car buying i probably know more than the dealers..hehe.<P>
I've had good experiences with dealers and I have had some awful experiences that i wouldn't wish on my worst enemies. and this advice comes from these experiences. The only problem is when you dont have alot of money like you (no offence intended...i dont either) you do HAVE to do some 1-on-1 negotiating. just remember this: dont let them run the show. Remain in control of the buy. if they pull out a piece of paper and start writing monthly options that you may be interested in just take the paper from their hands and wad it up in a ball. Remember YOU are in charge of negotiating a price..not them. DONT ALLOW THE SALESPERSON TO KEEP THE NEGOTIATION FOCUSED ON MONTHLY PAYMENTS. that will just confuse you, and take you away from the real negotiation at hand - getting the lowest final price on the car that you can get. and dont worry about financing at this point...your rate isn't going to differ very much...but shopping around is always a good idea

#5 research the invoice price of the car. this is important. but if you tell them that soandso.com says that the invoice price is $5000 less than their sticker price, they will either deny it or try to make you feel stupid by saying something like "well...that site doesn't say WHERE you can get a price like that...we get lots of people that come in with computer print-outs thinking they know everything..." don't listen to them..its rubbish. They are just trying to get the ball back in their court. plus they get a holdback and probably even got a manufacturer incentive on aging 2001 models. also remember that the MSRP is the most completely meaningless thing on planet earth. knocking $1000 off the invoice price as a starting point for your negotiations is a good thing.

anyway, i could go on for days on this subject lol

peace out and good luck!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 Cobalt Blue Tib
Package 5:
Leather
Fog Lights
CD/Cassete Player
Rear Wiper
Kitchen Sink

 

[JonGTR]

I figured they would give me a bad deal on the trade in. So I did that very thing. I told them at first I didn't want a trade and got a quote with just the car. But I went in yesterday and switched cars so they can appraise it. I think I like the $270/mo. they are offering me. I calculated it to be around $2100 off sticker price at 5.5% interest, which is what MY bank gives me. So, now I can take that quote and figure what they will give me for my trade-in easily.
They already told me in the beginning what they COULD give the car to me for $260-270/mo. but then after they came back from reviewing credit, etc. they tried $300 again. I told them no, and they dropped it back to $270. They think I'm stupid because I'm fairly young and can't understand their fast auctioneer jiberish, but I know their games. They also try the double-team with the manager but I knew that right away too. I know what money costs, I have lived on my own for several years now and have worked my way up from 3 years of minimum wage pay. I'm not about to live in poverty again.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Well, I'm now trying out the car till Friday and told them it's up to what they give for the trade-in. I made it clear that I'm not a definate buyer yet. So, we'll see how it goes.
Thanks for posting guys, keep it up.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

 

[Jonas666]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>knocking $1000 off the invoice price as a starting point for your negotiations is a good thing.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Well, this wouldn't work on a Hyundai vehicle. If you took invoice (which is also commonly referred to as cost), and subtracted $1000, you would be below "dealer net" which is the real dealer cost.

Now, JonGTR, as it sounds like a package 4 tib, sticker should be $16,068 freight included. Take off $500 for rebate, and you're at 15,568. Now take off your other $1000, and the dealer is making about $200. You're getting a good deal with that.

And if you can get any more than $3,000 for your trade-in, take it immediately. That's a good figure for your trade.


2000 Red Tiburon SE /w Leather
17" TSW VX-1's /w Toyo Proxes FZ4
Custom CAI, Vibrant Exhaust, Underdrive Pulley
12" Kicker Competitions, Cobalt amps, MTX powered x-over, phoenix gold cap, clarion cd

 

[GhostWerm]

well that was an arbitrary figure. if you subtract holdback and probable manufacturer incentives from the invoice you end up pretty close to dealer actual cost which is probably somewhere in the region of $1000 under invoice. not a realistic price for a tiburon, but its a start. now that i think of it, not letting the dealer make a profit off the sale of the car probably wont work, lol...oh well..like i said it was arbritrary<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 Cobalt Blue Tib
Package 5:
Leather
Fog Lights
CD/Cassete Player
Rear Wiper
Kitchen Sink

 

[JonGTR]

I finally signed the papers Friday. It was a huge hassle. I argued with the salesman, manager, and sales director, but finally ended up walking out paying $14200 drive-out. I didn't get the sunroof however.
What do you guys think of that price?

Thanks for your help.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0 align=middle>


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[salmonking]

good price I think.

I like the new tibs, but the current ones are cool too. Hope you take care of this one.

-dan


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