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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had posted a couple of weeks ago about my 97 Elantra where the timing belt broke and we replaced the head and now it won't start. We went to work on some of beppomarx's helpful suggestions, but while the spark plug wires were out, it sounded exactly the same while cranking as if they were in.

Assuming we used our Radio Shack electrical tester correctly, The coil packs didn't read any voltage coming out of the wire plugs. Using our Radio Shack voltage tester, I read 12V from the black/white stripe wire going into the coil pack when grounded to the negative battery terminal. I only read one volt when grounding to the browning wire going into the coil pack, but the same thing when grounded to the third wire.

I took the pack to the two major stores in town, and neither could test them, but one guy said it looked like it wasn't grounding properly, and that it was grounding out of the side of the coils, into the metal bracket that holds it. There is ashy discoloring to support his guess. Does the coil pack use one of the other two wires to ground, or does it ground to the cylinder head?

Does this sound like something wrong with just the coil packs, or might there be a problem elsewhere in the wiring? Thanks again for the help.

[Edited by lucidequilibrium on Mar 25, 2005 1:40 PM]
 

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heres what you need to do, i dont know what type of tester you have but you need a one with an ohm meter. Test the resistance between the primary positive wire to the coil pack output (where the plug wire goes). Then test the resistance between the primary negative ground wire to the coil pack output. Both of these should read infinite resistance (no continuity ) If they do then the internal windings are shorted. Also test the coil pack output to the nearest ground ( the bracket that holds it in place ). This should aslo read infinite resistance. If not then it is shorted to ground.

If this is a multiple coil waste spark system (which i think it is ) then the coils get grounded by the ecm. Anyways good luck and post results

:rambo:

later
 

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Originally posted by bizzare
[body]
If this is a multiple coil waste spark system (which i think it is ) then the coils get grounded by the ecm. Anyways good luck and post results

:rambo:

later
[/body]
It is.


^^^As he stated, you should not have a constant ground to the coil packs. That is how they fire.

[Edited by Acid7711 on Mar 27, 2005 2:54 AM]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I tested the coil pack just as you said, and it read infinite resistance in all three tests. I found a part store who can test the ignition control module, so I think I'm going to do that, after I figure out what and where it is and take it out.

Should I read 12V coming from the power wire going into the coil pack grounded to the ground wire going to the same place? I only read 1V or so there, maybe that is an indication of something. It read 12V grounded to the battery.

If there is anything else I should test, let me know. I'm not ready to give up yet.
 

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I know the early (97-99) Tibs and Elantras had a bad coilpack problem. I replaced mine twice, the second time with Hyundai's more recent coilpack they used on the 00+ Beta motors. The problem, like you discovered, is the coilpacks "leaking". Voltage follows the path of least resistence, which ISN'T the plug wires on the early coilpacks. Over time they begin leaking spark into the bracket, causing the car to misfire.

When mine was going bad, I could go outside at night and pop the hood and actually watch blue sparks jump from the coil to the bracket. :puzzled:

Replace the coilpack and you should be fine. I believe it's about $50 from the dealer. Just order the one for your car, as they updated the part numbers for all Betas. If I remember correctly the original had a brass colored bracket, while the newer one was black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's what I needed to hear. I guess the guy at the shop did know what he was talking about. I'll look into a new one. They're hard to find in the junkyards around here. I think they were $113 from the closest dealer. I'll post when I put it in. Thanks very much for all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New Ignition Coil = Nothing

Apparently that wasn't the problem. I'll just pretend that it was going to go bad soon anyway. I guess now I'll try and test some other crap. It could be a sensor, maybe. Can someone what kind of resistance I should be getting from the camshaft/crankshaft position sensors? I got about 1500 ohms between two of the terminals in the camshaft sensor, and I got 0 ohm from the same ones in the crankshaft sensor. I'm not sure which those are, because I don't have the electrical shop manual, and I couldnt find anything on HMA Service.

[Edited by lucidequilibrium on Mar 30, 2005 8:45 AM]
 

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hmm this is why u rule out all other possibilities. Sorry to hear it man. The ecm must have a crank signal in order to start. The resisntance in the crank sensor should not be a good indicator. The crank position sensor for this car is a voltage generator. It has a magnet and a coil inside of it that collapse and energize a magnetic field to send a low voltage signal to the ecm, kind of like a hall switch. Anyways try following the flow chart on hma, under the SHOP tab > Fuel system > MFI control system > crankshaft position sensor.

later

[Edited by bizzare on Mar 30, 2005 4:27 PM]
 
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