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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just wondering (before I go pulling consoles off an stuff) what color the power lead from the factory radio on a 2000 Accent GL 4 Dr. will be. I recently aquired a small amp and subwoofer, nothing big enough to impress anyone, just a little ommpf for my rides to work. But, i dont want to go pulling my dash apart without knowing EXACTLY what im looking for.

anyone who knows what color wire, please reply. i dont feel like crossing wires and hooking my radio up to my side marker lights like i did to my brothers car a few years back (although still not sure how i did that)

thanks!
chris


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Heya,

I do car stereo stuff all the time, and in my accent GT, I have installed over 6 different systems, all different brands.

I recomend getting a pro to do it, but if you have an idea as to what you are doing then read below.
Get a multimeter.
Pull your dash apart to get at the head unit.
Undo the screws that hold in the deck, and slide it out.
Keeping the deck plugged in, pop in a CD (not the radio) and ground out the negative lead on the meter (which is set to 15v DC read) to a metal part of the car.
Using the red lead on the meter, measure looking for a wire that produces around 12 or more volts while the cd is playing. Volume doesnt matter.
When you find the wire, watch the meter, and turn off the car, and remove keys.
If the meter stills shows 12 volts, this is the main power wire. Wrong one.
Keep looking for another wire that has 12 volts running through it.
When you find a wire that is hot when the car is on, and deck is playing a CD, and is cold when you turn off the car, your good to go.
That wire is your REMOTE lead for your amp.
splice, and run a purple cable to your trunk.
Run RCA cables to your trunk, and one heavy guage wire(red for +), with large fuse at battery terminal to trunk.
Drill a hole into your floor within 12 inches of where the amp will be located, and affix a black(-) 18 inch wire the same guage as your red power wire to the ground connector.
Use proper connectors for everything. Solder is preferable, with heat shrink wrapping.
hook it all up, and rock n roll.

Good luck!
-Scott/Grimmy


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have installed a couple small systems in previously owned cars, but i definitely dont want to do a hack, or semi-hack job like in the past, i might just put money towards getting a professional installation, and skip the bull**it. lol. thanks for the install advice though!!

p.s. i dont have the CD player, its the factory tape deck, ....but do they come with RCA outs??? ive never seen a factory radio with RCA's. interesting...




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the easiest way is just to get a wiring harness from Circuit City or Best Buy (or a car stereo store) It has a clip made specificly for your car and all you do is follow the wires from the factory tape/cd player until you see this connector. Disconnect it and clip in the one that you bought from the Circuit City, etc. The wire colors that come out of that harness are car stero standard colors (red is 12v black is ground, blue is remote, etc) usually on the pacakage there is a chart for all the colors too. Solder the wires to your new cd player and to the remote wire that goes to the amp, and the wires to the speakers and you would be all set.

I have done about 8 car stereos on all differnt cars and trucks. I suggest taking out your seats and all the plastic molding on the ground to make the job easier. It sounds hard but it really isn't. Hide all the wires under the molding and carpet and your all set. Just don't mess up your wires or you might have a small fire in your dashboard <img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

good luck


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Both these guys are making this way more complicated then it actually is. Here's how I hooked up my amp.

Go into your fuse panel and find the fuse for the radio itself( there will only be power going through this wire when the key is turned). Splice into this and connect it to the REM spot on your amp.

If you're talking about the power wire for the amp, do not run it off your radios power wire. Run a 4 guage wire directly off you battery to your amp, and make sure you put a fuse in it no farther away then 18 inches from the bat. Use the same size wire to ground the amp to a part of the chasis that is bare metal.

As for RCAs, I doubt the factory radio has any but you can buy a little gadget (can't remember what it's called) that you hook your speaker wire up to and it'll turn them into RCAs. ( you can buy one at wal-mart pretty cheap)

Hope this helps


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>'91 Hyundai Excel
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks everyone! all of your info will definitely help. i have, in the past, used the wiring harnesses, i was just wondering if i could cop out of having that bulk of wire back there, but, its definitely one of the easier ways to go, plus, i know eventually ill change the head unit....it'd save me time later.

next questions, battery clamps with an accessory wire clamp and in line fuse..........what kind of cost would i be looking at for something like those two items? if im gonna do it.........i definitely want it done right, and looking like it was done right.

thanks!
chris


one last question, i cant find a technical FAQ anywhere about this, but the manual for my amp says that channels are not bridgeable. its a 4 ch. amp. am i correct in assuming that this means that i cant take 2 of the channel outputs, and combining the wires to make a joint output to 1 speaker

i feel like im asking a stupid question, but this might be a cause to why the last amp i had about 5 years ago, constantly overheated? it was frustrating to go into protection mode, and go to the trunk to switch power off and on again, so i installed a toggle switch on my dahs, it looked awful, but it was awfully convenient.

ok, im babbling. lol later.....<img src=/images/forums/snitz/cool.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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