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No such luck. Get yourself a 1.8L cam, (from a 1996-1998 elantra, and tiburon) It has more duration and I think more lift. Everyone around here has them installed. I COULD provide you with one if you are interested, I would be looking at $80 shipped. Ask around though, someone may have it locally. If not I have them readily available.

As for cam gears, I don't know how that would work as the belt drives one cam, then the other one is driven by a chain internally. Attaching a cam gear to the main cam (exhaust) would be like attaching two cam gears, and degreeing them the same... I don't know what the benefits of that would be!

I don't know if anyone has ever jumped the teeth on the cam to offset it that way... I don't know if that's like a 10 degree jump though!
 

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Kitchen, as a side note I would like to add that your cam selection should be informed by the typ of driving that you do most often, not by the horsepower numbers that you want the engine to produce(unless of course, in the case that you are building a dyno car/engine)

A "race cam" will shift your powerband into the stratosphere, or rather, into the rev-range that isn't very often used when you commute. However, it will make remove any low-down torque that you require to move off at the lights.

Please choose your cam carefully; it may result in an excessively peaky engine.
 

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Yeah, like what I did to the 1.6L pony engine: NO TORQUE AT ALL.
 

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^^^Rev it like a Honda motor and you'll be alright. :p No seriously, I did the MG club day yesterday, you would be freaked out at how quick the old MG's can be in comparision to the new ones, all old-school NA on huge-arse race cams. The only downside is that they needed to keep the motors up there(4000~8000, many of these little things revved like crazy thanks to the old-school Lotus engines)
 

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Hah well thats the problem, i put a race cam into an engine with a stock carb and a stock (falling apart) exh. system. For it to work I need a header, and a bigger carb (4g63 SOHC carb at least) The advance timing I did is detrimental because I tuned it for a stock cam, providing max adv. as soon as possible... I have to re-tune it retarded with a GRADUAL gain so as to take advantage of the combustion cycle down low.... in other words, trust us, don't get a race cam in an unbuilt motor. All you'll get is a rough (very rough, sometimes it stalls) idle and a SICK intake sound (which I dearly miss since the 4G63 swap) to boot... I'll tell you something, the 1.4L Pony pulls better at low RPMS than the half-built 4G16 with a race cam and carb work.

Also, I dare not take it past 6K RPM for fear of total transmission failure.

Pick your components wisely my son, and have a backup car.
 
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