[WytchDctr]

neutral drops are horrible on everything.. don't do it. I have a buddy of mine with a 94 Grand Am Gt .. 200k miles (or gettin close now) and he uses the shiften an auto thing.. still runnin strong. Beware the 1.6 Accent with a 5spd. They run same times as an Auto tib.. or so i heard.. Mwahahahahahahahaha <img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>WytchDctr
1.6 DOHC 16v
5-speed
www.geocities.com/accentpage

 

[WhoopOi]

I tried both ways with my turboed Cavalier [yeah yeah] I powered braked and left it in Drive, never in OD... then tried manually shifting it.... to be honest with you, I got better times manually shifting my auto. I got a better response... and I ususally knocked off about .2 or .4 in my times... <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


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[jx06]

i've never tried manually shifting on the auto, and i was wondering, at what points do u shift (gear, speed, rpm, or whatever)? any suggestions would be appreciated, thanx.


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[WhoopOi]

Check the specs... <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> Ever drive stick? I BELIEVE the tib gets its full HP at 5500RPMS, so you wanna shift right around there. Power break your car, to about 2300-2500rpms [I'm talking about the tib] OR go down a backroad and see where you launch well, so you dont spin or anything, anyways... launch off.. when it gets to about 5500RPMS, ram that b!itch into second, and so on till the race is complete... when you get up to the last gear, I believe it's third... I dunno, I have a manual, but anyways, when you run out of "manual" gears in your auto, put it into drive and BOOM.... crush it.... Try this out before you go to a track... and before you shift, test this. Once, try letting your foot off the gas a lil as you shift. Another, try it without letting off at all... see which shifts better for you. Thats all I've got to say for right now, hope I helped ya buddy. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/approve.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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The Extra E is for looks. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>
You laugh because I'm different... I laugh cuz you're all the same.
I'm off like a prom dress.
HP.com #1 Pimp

 

[Jonas666]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Whoopi:"I BELIEVE the tib gets its full HP at 5500RPMS, so you wanna shift right around there." <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Nope. You want to shift right at redline. True you make your power up at 6,000 RPM, but remember, when you shift your RPMS drop lower, and you don't want to drop out of your powerband, so you always want to shift up real high....ie.6700RPM in the tib.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2000 Red Tiburon SE /w Leather
17" TSW VX-1's /w Toyo Proxes FZ4
Custom CAI, Vibrant Exhaust, Underdrive Pulley
12" Kicker Competitions, Cobalt amps, MTX powered x-over, phoenix gold cap, clarion cd

 

[Lantra]

Hehe how weird is that jonas we both had the same 240, mine was silver. I don't think the I 2 then D would hurt the tranny I did it for 50k miles and I had no problems with this effective method of shifting.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Turbo=Torque, Torque= More fun!
Red! Red! What shall I do? Where shall I go!?
Frankly Scarlet, I don't give a damn! >=0)

 

[Jonas666]

Yeah Lantra, mine was black. I did that kind of driving too, and my torque converter blew after I had my car for a week. I think the problem was unrelated though, because the previous owner had driven it hard. The dealer replaced the torque converter, and I never had a problem again. And I put another 100,000 kms on it afterwards.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>2000 Red Tiburon SE /w Leather
17" TSW VX-1's /w Toyo Proxes FZ4
Custom CAI, Vibrant Exhaust, Underdrive Pulley
12" Kicker Competitions, Cobalt amps, MTX powered x-over, phoenix gold cap, clarion cd

 

[Lantra]

Ouch, damn torque converter, hehe. Yeah, so as you can see, the 1 2 D method doesnt damage anything, glad you were able to get it fixed Jonas, I had that car for 96,000miles and all I had to replace on it was a thermostat, and all of those 96k miles it was raced daliy.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Turbo=Torque, Torque= More fun!
Red! Red! What shall I do? Where shall I go!?
Frankly Scarlet, I don't give a damn! >=0)

 

[RiTibby]

ok..today i tested different ways of racing my tib against my friends tib
mine: 1997 Tiburon 1.8L
friends: 1998 Tiburon 2.0L

i tried doing 1-2-D ; 1-D ; or just flooring it in D.

i actually beat him twice when i used 1-D but he said something was wrong with his clutch.. but i feel in my car anyways that this is the best method..i would hold the brake and gas down and rev to like 2500-3000 rpm's..then let go of gas(all while in 1)..when i reached about 5500-6000.i would switch into drive without letting go of gas...it worked much better then the other 2 methods <img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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[Mach5]

hmmm i must try the ONE-D method tonite while i beat on dumn little kids stock honda lxs and beat up chevys<img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>.
i'm so happy i worked hard and bought a hyundai instead of waiting for a handmedown


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[luthang]

If you realy want a boost there is a new stall out for the 2000-2001 tiby that stalls about 3500. It'll make you spin on take off with power braking.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/evil.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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