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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so sometimes my rev limitter hits at 6500 rpm or as soon as is hit red line but not normally... normally it hits like right before 8 or right at 8..wth.. can anyone explain this to me????
 

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the knock sensor is the main reason for that in hyundai's. if the car isen't knocking at the red line the car will continue to rev but like cottonmouth said your engine isen't making any power up there and all you are doing is hurting your valvetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i think the tach is just off... and sometimes its not... im thinking this because when i paid close attention the car sounded the same at when it was hitting at 6500 as it did hitting at 7800... the car was still accelerating as i approached 7800 so... idk wth
 

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2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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With stock cam profiles - yes. But once you start heading into those kinds of rpm's, the engine isn't making power though and all it'll do is beat on the valvetrain.
 

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So what is the safe rev limit for engine with full stock head ?
Good question - which engine? Beta I has better oil pressure so in theory it should have a higher survival rate over the Beta II if you're really pushing it. The soft limit on a factory ECU seems to be around 6,500 rpm. I'm not 100% sure. I don't think the Hyundai has a fuel cut for rev limiting. I'd actually like to know more about the factory ECU's myself (A/F maps, rev limits, what ECU's will swap with each other to improve performance etc)
 

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Good question - which engine? Beta I has better oil pressure so in theory it should have a higher survival rate over the Beta II if you're really pushing it. The soft limit on a factory ECU seems to be around 6,500 rpm. I'm not 100% sure. I don't think the Hyundai has a fuel cut for rev limiting. I'd actually like to know more about the factory ECU's myself (A/F maps, rev limits, what ECU's will swap with each other to improve performance etc)
i have beta II engine,what is the difference in oil systems of beta l and beta ll
 

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i have beta II engine,what is the difference in oil systems of beta l and beta ll
This one I don't know. I found this information on the forum but I couldn't find the explanation. Could be the oil relief valve, the oil pump itself or a change in the oil gallery feed design. The Beta II head is slightly different due to the provisions for VVT so that may be reason oil pressure is marginally lower...
 

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This thread contradicts my theory about Beta I/II reline rpm's -
 

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This one I don't know. I found this information on the forum but I couldn't find the explanation. Could be the oil relief valve, the oil pump itself or a change in the oil gallery feed design. The Beta II head is slightly different due to the provisions for VVT so that may be reason oil pressure is marginally lower...
D
This one I don't know. I found this information on the forum but I couldn't find the explanation. Could be the oil relief valve, the oil pump itself or a change in the oil gallery feed design. The Beta II head is slightly different due to the provisions for VVT so that may be reason oil pressure is marginally lower...
So I think that it’s safety to rev full stock head to 7000, everything over is useless, but maybe it’s possible to find performance spring and camshaft for beta ll ?
 

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I believe there are aftermarket cams available, but there is also the option of modifying a Beta II exhaust cam to replace the intake cam. I remember reading a thread on it. I would not use a heavy duty valve spring in a twin cam head, but instead use double valve springs or beehive springs. Heavy duty valve springs will be rough on valve seats. I have a J2 Lantra wagon with a Beta I 2.0. Only mods I have done to it are headers, rear muffler delete, modified CAI intake duct to the factory air box and the Beta I 1.8 Tiburon intake cam swap. It has good useable torque from 2k rpm and the cams' power curve goes from 3700-6500 rpm. When the engine management feels like playing ball, it pulls like a train (these things refuse to do consistent power runs - it's frustrating as hell...) Do a search on what recommendations are available for tweaking the Beta II or start your own thread for feedback. My biggest beef with the Beta II is how mediocre the VVT is and the throttle hang on gear shifts (it can be tamed slightly with a really simple mod but the @#$%ing throttle hang is evil)
 

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I believe there are aftermarket cams available, but there is also the option of modifying a Beta II exhaust cam to replace the intake cam. I remember reading a thread on it. I would not use a heavy duty valve spring in a twin cam head, but instead use double valve springs or beehive springs. Heavy duty valve springs will be rough on valve seats. I have a J2 Lantra wagon with a Beta I 2.0. Only mods I have done to it are headers, rear muffler delete, modified CAI intake duct to the factory air box and the Beta I 1.8 Tiburon intake cam swap. It has good useable torque from 2k rpm and the cams' power curve goes from 3700-6500 rpm. When the engine management feels like playing ball, it pulls like a train (these things refuse to do consistent power runs - it's frustrating as hell...) Do a search on what recommendations are available for tweaking the Beta II or start your own thread for feedback. My biggest beef with the Beta II is how mediocre the VVT is and the throttle hang on gear shifts (it can be tamed slightly with a really simple mod but the @#$%ing throttle hang is evil)
is it possible to instal on beta ll cam from 1.8 and save vvt? Actually I wanna keep it all motor and make it more powerful for daily,because for tucson it’s not powerful enough(
 

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Beta I and II cams aren't interchangeable. Different cam gears and journal diameters. Wonder if a set of Elantra headers would work on the Tuscon... Is the VVT in your engine fully actuating? If the solenoid, filter screen or the cam actuator are clogged up, it could be down on power. Same if the idler chain driving the intake cam is stretched or the guides are worn down. It could be enough to lose a degree or 2 of cam timing :unsure:
 

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Beta I and II cams aren't interchangeable. Different cam gears and journal diameters. Wonder if a set of Elantra headers would work on the Tuscon... Is the VVT in your engine fully actuating? If the solenoid, filter screen or the cam actuator are clogged up, it could be down on power. Same if the idler chain driving the intake cam is stretched or the guides are worn down. It could be enough to lose a degree or 2 of cam timing :unsure:
Header will feat,than all exhaust system should be custom, vvt work perfect problem it’s Tucson weight so if I will add like 20hp to engine it’s gonna be perfect,I also have remap and decat but also need more,I think about lightweight pulleys and flywheel but people tell me that it gonna be harder to start on hill in traffic jam
 

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Header will feat,than all exhaust system should be custom, vvt work perfect problem it’s Tucson weight so if I will add like 20hp to engine it’s gonna be perfect,I also have remap and decat but also need more,I think about lightweight pulleys and flywheel but people tell me that it gonna be harder to start on hill in traffic jam
They are right about the flywheel. It is a trade off for the power band. The Tuscon is a bit of a tank and losing some inertia from the flywheel may cause some issues. Wrapped headers and a 2.25"-2.5" exhaust will gain torque - I'd keep the factory air box and run ducting from the front bumper or somewhere there is a cool air stream from outside of the engine bay. What about considering a different tyre and wheel package with a smaller overall diameter? It will trade top speed for acceleration and a lower sidewall profile will improve handling a little.
 

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They are right about the flywheel. It is a trade off for the power band. The Tuscon is a bit of a tank and losing some inertia from the flywheel may cause some issues. Wrapped headers and a 2.25"-2.5" exhaust will gain torque - I'd keep the factory air box and run ducting from the front bumper or somewhere there is a cool air stream from outside of the engine bay. What about considering a different tyre and wheel package with a smaller overall diameter? It will trade top speed for acceleration and a lower sidewall profile will improve handling a little.
And about intake,what can u say about k&n air filter in stock box,because I plan to remove all resonators in stock intake,gold wrap and k&n air filter
 

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And about intake,what can u say about k&n air filter in stock box,because I plan to remove all resonators in stock intake,gold wrap and k&n air filter
The only bonus in using a K&N filter panel is that they are serviceable. You won't get a measurable improvement in performance unless you are looking at the long term (improved fuel economy over service intervals, or financial as they claim the K&N will last the life of the car as long as it's regularly maintained) Keep the stock filter panel, scrap all of the resonators and the restricted air intake and build an intake duct to pull air from outside of the engine bay. I made one out of PVC stormwater/downpipe (65 to 75mm) and painted it in satin black epoxy paint. I don't think you'll get any improvement on intake temps by wrapping it as long as it's not routed somewhere daft like right against the radiator (like the stock Lantra J1 to J3 intake - grrr...) If there are coolant feeds going to the throttle body, run a single bypass hose instead. This will reduce throttle body temperatures.
 

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The only bonus in using a K&N filter panel is that they are serviceable. You won't get a measurable improvement in performance unless you are looking at the long term (improved fuel economy over service intervals, or financial as they claim the K&N will last the life of the car as long as it's regularly maintained) Keep the stock filter panel, scrap all of the resonators and the restricted air intake and build an intake duct to pull air from outside of the engine bay. I made one out of PVC stormwater/downpipe (65 to 75mm) and painted it in satin black epoxy paint. I don't think you'll get any improvement on intake temps by wrapping it as long as it's not routed somewhere daft like right against the radiator (like the stock Lantra J1 to J3 intake - grrr...) If there are coolant feeds going to the throttle body, run a single bypass hose instead. This will reduce throttle body temperatures.
Thank you for your advice!
 
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