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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys. I have a problem, i understand all the basics of amp wiring, and running the cables with the exeption to one thing????? How the hell do i run the power cable for the amp in a '97 accent 1.5glsi auto??? i see 2 power inlets- i is behind the top dash and the other behind the center consol (1 single red wire) there is also what looks like a blank rubber grommet type thing in the passenger footwell (right hand drive), can i go through this??
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks People
 

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You can go through any grommet that the wire will fit through and if you can't find a suitable place you can drill your own hole and install a new grommet.
 

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187sks said:
You can go through any grommet that the wire will fit through and if you can't find a suitable place you can drill your own hole and install a new grommet.

Word. In my 2003 I plan to use the blank one thats on the passenger side, wide open and just above the floor. Just make an X shaped slice and feed the wire through...

But make sure you're using QUALITY wire of the right gauge - don't go across any moving/hot parts, fuse of proper size within 18inches of battery, and loom it up! etc..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Gromets

Thats what i inteded to do but can only locate 1 sensibly accesible wire in the center behind the ashtray. there is a rectangular gromet on the left hand side footwell is this the one you mean??? it is holeless and i think i see the back in the engine bay. i dont want to drill because im not confident
 

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Not sure what you mean by 'accessible wire'...


Perhaps some pics of your intended location would help? Otherwise, look in the passenger side footwell and basically right in the center of the area just a little bit above the carpet you should see a big fat rubber plug...that's the one we're talking about.
 

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pull out the grommet and if you see its a suitable place to run your wire through then it will be ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Done it

hey i done it :D it wasnt even rectangle the gromet it was round haha.
now i gotta see were the wires can run up into the stereo bit. but my main concern now is the ground- can i run it off of 1 of the seat bolts??? theres alot of fiberglass in the boot and not many bolts.
 

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seat bolts are "ok"...probably perfectly fine if you don't fold the seats all the time etc. Whatever you choose, make sure that you scrape all the paint off the metal first!!!! Clean metal to clean metal, tight secure connection.....
 

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I recommend not running your rca's next to the power wires, if this even aplies to your situation. Just a tip:) I grounded my amp to one of the "babyseat" brackets in the rear most part of the hatch, if you don't plan on using them it's a good place.
 

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Good advice in here. Run your power cable through the grommet that is blank.
Make a hole, run the cable, and you'll be golden.

Whenever I do installs for friends or my own cars, I always-always-ALWAYS wrap the power cable in wire loom and then wrap that with electrical tape from end to end. A little overkill but it's better than the alternative.

I agree with ozone about the routing of power and RCA cables. The electrical field, small but evident, generated by the power cable can "bleed-out" and cause negative effects to the sound quality. (i.e.)--> Static or hiss.:(

Run the power cable down one side of the car, and the RCA cables down the other. If there is sufficient room underneath, run the RCA's underneath the plastic door sill trim along the floor of the car, the power cable may not fit depending on the gauge of wire. This can be tucked under the carpeting.

Have fun with your install!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanx

thanx for the advice so far guys, as i said i already sorted the power wire and the rcas and remote are seperate to power. my only concern is groundin it now. gonna try and get it done today, subs a xmas pressy so no rush, jus wanna go out xmas day and plug her in lol.
got new head unit, pioneer p6900ib, 12" active fli sub and pioneer TS-A6911 6x9s coming from my fiance, got my 4" fli ntergrators in the front doors as a pressie from me already lol.

not the best setup but my first :D :D :D
 

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Ahhh...gotcha!! Ground cable is simple, and it seems that it has been answered here as well. You can pretty much use any bolt that is in the trunk area as long as there is a metal to metal surface. Use some emery cloth, sand paper, or any thing you may have that is lightly abrasive, that can be used to remove some of the paint and create a nice clean spot for grounding. I think you mentioned connecting to one of the seat mounting bolts. This will work fine also, but, as stated above...make sure you have a good metal surface so the ground is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok

ok cool i will use 1 of the bolts for the rear bench brackets. hope it all goes come christmas lol.
also what ya think of my 'install to come'?
my fli 4"'s are popin occasionally- sounds like when ya flick a bit of plastic, only occasionally though. i thought it may be where its unamped an runnin stock.
Any ideas????
 

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So the 4" are just being power by deck? Either the speaker is blown, the cabling/connections are poor, or the internal amp in the deck is ****.


Examine your cables/connections on those speakers.
 

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I have a '99 accent, so the internals are basically the same.
What I did was create rings from 1/2" MDF that 5 1/4" speakers fit onto then managed to mount them in the 4" spot on the door.
The only problem is the stock speaker covers don't fit.
I also did the same thing with 6 1/2" speakers on the underside of the rear deck.
That solved my problem of over-powering the 4" door speakers
If you want, I can provide pics of my speaker mounts.

My setup now is a Sony CDX-GT51W head-unit to 2 Sony amps, one is a xm-4540 (4ch 45w/ch) the other is a xm-10020 (2ch 100w/ch)
the 4ch amp puts out a max of 90w to each ch. The 2ch is bridged to mono out which gives about 300w max.
Speakers: 2 5 1/4" Rockford Fosgates in the door, 2 6 1/2" Sonys in the back deck, and 1 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch in the trunk.

Awesome sound, BUT the alternator and battery can't keep up when I'm pounding the tunes.

My idea: where the A/C compressor should be, I'm thinking of mounting a second alternator and run it in parallel to the other alternator.

Anybody think this is a good/bad idea??
 

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How large are the fuses that are built into the sides of the amps? Something's not right if you're thinking the alternator can't keep up with such small amps. What size wire are you running to those badboys?
 

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jkrswld said:
How large are the fuses that are built into the sides of the amps? Something's not right if you're thinking the alternator can't keep up with such small amps. What size wire are you running to those badboys?
The 4ch has a 20A and the 2ch has 2x20A so 40A worth.

so at FULL pull, that would be 60A. My alternator is only rated for 55A :(

Now, that would be fine if I were running nothing but stereo, but I have other things going too ... I run with my full headlight system on all the time, it's COLD, so I have the heater fan on, the rear window defrost on, and since I usually drive in the dark (and live in northern Ontario) the roads are VERY dark and I have 2 KC Daylighter 150w lights for seeing (these bad boys draw about 25A on their own).

So, with all that on, you can see how my poor little alternator can't keep up.
 

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WOW. Are you sure the alternator is only 55? That's insane! I think you would be better off looking into a high-output alternator instead of adding in a 2nd one. Also, I don't think you mentioned what size power wire you have running to those amps.

You should also (if you can get somewhere warm/garage) upgrade your underhood power and grounds with some high quality 4gauge or larger wiring (use something with high strand count).

Here's some information on that - its a GREAT addition to ANY vehicle, especially those with high demand... How to upgrade the Big Three
 

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jkrswld said:
WOW. Are you sure the alternator is only 55? That's insane! I think you would be better off looking into a high-output alternator instead of adding in a 2nd one. Also, I don't think you mentioned what size power wire you have running to those amps.

You should also (if you can get somewhere warm/garage) upgrade your underhood power and grounds with some high quality 4gauge or larger wiring (use something with high strand count).

Here's some information on that - its a GREAT addition to ANY vehicle, especially those with high demand... How to upgrade the Big Three
Yea, the X3 accent and alpha motor only have a 55A alternator. It sucks.
I do have a spare alternator for the car, so all I heed to do is fab a mount to where the A/C compressor should be.

As to getting a high-out alternator, no one makes one for this car, so I would have to get a custom wound alt. $$$. Costs too much.

I have 10ga wire to power the amps which should be able to handle the power, I have had no issues of hot or even warm wires. And since they are mounted under the seats, a ground is only 3" away.
 

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10ga!?!? You should really have at LEAST 4ga to a dual 8ga fused splitter to be safe! What size of fuse do you have in that power line?
 
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