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do you have ABS

"I love my life a quarter mile at a time"
 

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Well got me then

"I love my life a quarter mile at a time"
 

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Is the vibration there at speed, and WORSE when braking, or does it ONLY happen when braking?
Can you feel the vibration through the brake pedal, or only the steering wheel?

Could be lots of things..
Wheel out of balance (or a weight fell off)
Steel belt in tire broke
Loose lug nuts allowing wheel wobble
Crack/bent rim/wheel

My guess is....
Warped Rotor.

With a warped rotor...a very LIGHT shaking is noticable...you might mistake it for road vibration...then when you hit the brakes..your steering wheel and brake pedal should vibrate like a pager at higher speed. As the car slows down..the vibration should change to a pulsing.

Take it to the dealer and have them check the rotors for warpage...

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Random wins another one... yes just what he said.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am thinking its wheel balance... i checked the other stuff you brought up Random (thanks) only thing i can't check myself(or atleast don't know how) is wheel balance.

WytchDctr

WytchDctr

"The truth will set you free"
 

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Random is exactly right. I had the same exact problem, wytchdoctor. At speeds higher then 50 mph braking somewhat hard, to slow down for an exit, for instance, the brake pedal vibrated a bit and the steering wheel vibrated. Front rotor was warped. Brought it in...resurfaced rotors and I was out in under 1 hour.
 

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same thing for 2001 XG300 and they refused to fix the car because I was there. and when my parents went, they fixed it. Bastards....
and same thing is happening to my car as well

I love my Tib
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Random is exactly right. I had the same exact problem, wytchdoctor. At speeds higher then 50 mph braking somewhat hard, to slow down for an exit, for instance, the brake pedal vibrated a bit and the steering wheel vibrated. Front rotor was warped. Brought it in...resurfaced rotors and I was out in under 1 hour.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>
Hey how much did they charge you? Same thing is happening to my mom's car..just wondering so I could tell her <img src=icon_smile_kisses.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Mysilvertiburon. Its all Hyundais it seems. The rotors are soft and when hard braking is applied and I mean slamming on the brakes when the riceboy cuts you off, those pads dig hard into the rotor causing an uneveness in the rotor. What also happens, is that the pad can be pushed down when hard braking is applied. If you get this pulsation on an on/off basis..sometimes its there, sometimes it ain't. That is due to the pad being pushed down...and then has to go back to its original state. Hyundai is a great car company, but they cut corners like everyone else, such as cheaper brake pads and rotors. As long as the car stops...Im happy. My Jeep is on its 3rd brake job in 110,000 miles. My moms old corolla got 120,000 on the original rear drums, fronts were replaced once. It all depends on how you drive the car is how long your brakes perform smoothly and how they last.

Redshark, what kind of car? My car was covered under warranty, as it should be. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> If your mom's car has 4 wheel disc brakes, it would be more $ because they might have to resurface 4 rotors instead of 2. However, chances are its the front brakes that would be causing the pulsastion. If its a small sedan, I'd say around $100 bucks. Its only 1 hour worth of work. When you get these huge repair figures, its usually the labor that goes into it. Case and point: My old car needed the valve cover gasket replaced. Part was only $20 but the repair fee was $80. $60 for labor because it is a pain to put in. With the Elantra, this was only 1 hr worth of work and they didnt have to order any parts. So it should be cheap. Hope this helps <img src=icon_smile_kisses.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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You said that you had your rotors turned under warranty? I went in to the dealer for the same thing and was charged 250 bux. The rotors were turned under warranty, sure, but the parts and labor for new pads(not covered under warranty) ran up quite a bill. I would have been better off going to a regular mechanic and geting performance brake pads.
 

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One thing I forgot to mention that it could be.

Aftermarket wheels have different sized hubs. Tiburons and Elantras have 67.06 mm (2.640 Inch) hubs. If your wheel hubs are larger than this, all the weight of the wheel is carried on the 4 bolts. NOT GOOD!

I recently worked on a members car who had a good 1/4" of play around the hub. As the car drove, the wheel would "rotate" around the hub, so there was no slack at the bottom and 1/2" at the top. As the car would speed up or brake, it would get worse. At freeway speeds, it was un-noticable, and the rotating force of the wheel centered itself.

I removed the wheel, and did the best job I could centering the wheel, and then centering the lugs so that the wheel would not shift/rotate on the hub. I though I did a damn fine job. Then the car rolled forward, and CLUNK...it sunk down to hub and started the problem all over again.

The moral of the story...find out the exact diameter of your wheel hubs, and your rotor hubs. if they do not match...spacers can be ordered from www.tires.com or www.gorilla-automotive.com for between $20 and $30 a set.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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I didn't need new pads or any other parts. I am among the most careful drivers out there and brake only when I need to. I can get through rush hour traffic, stop and go traffic without stepping on the brake ONCE. So obviously, this brake problem was not caused by me. The service technician didn't even question that. I didnt even ask him if it was covered under warranty. He told me after it was done automatically that it was covered under warranty. Just had me sign to verify it and I was off. If I were you, Id fight that thunorsman. That should be covered under warranty. Unless you hard brake a lot, causing that. Then it would be your fault. But if you drive normal, then it is Hyundai's fault and they should make good on it
 

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Even if it is your fault, they don't have a way of proving it... so the warranty should still be in effect no matter the driving style.
 

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Good point Decrum. That is the problem I had with my Jeep. I am a very good driver and never had a problem with brakes. But for some reason, this car kept having brake problems. Pads wore out prematurely and the rotors warped. The service manager blamed ME! I fought with him but before anything could be done, a recall was issued on the car for brakes. I got my money back and let the guy have it for being an asshole.

I now am helping my coworker fight the Honda dealership for his 95 Passport. He purchased an extended warranty from Honda for $1,500. The head gasket blew and the dealership refuses to fix it. They claim that the guage was reading hot and the owner ignored causing it to blow. I told him to claim complete ignorance of the car saying "The reason why I purchased the warranty is because I dont know anything about cars" Hopefully, they will go halves on the warranty work at the least without a lawsuite involved. The guage was reading hot and he shoudl have pulled over and turned off the engine. But he kept going. Luckily, Hyundai is good for their warranty work and honor it. But Honda aint.
 

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Yeah when I test drove a elantra a little more than a year ago its rotors were pulsating when I steped on the breaks. Telling me one thing, The rotors were too far down and obvously needed to be relplaced......I replaced my disk breaks on my lantra maybee a year ago now I have to replace the drums in back.....I really hate break work I wish it would last forever

Silly Ricer, Hondas are for kids!
 

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Yeah, the rotors are thin. To avoid pulsation, try not to brake hard. I mean, its unavoidable sometimes such as when the moron on the cell phone cuts you off, doesn't signal and then slams on the brakes causing you to brake hard. Doing this constantly will make an indentation on the rotors causing them to pulsate because they are uneven. Try not to brake hard is the best way to do this. Or upgrade your rotors to a thicker metal.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>...Or upgrade your rotors to a thicker metal.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=1 id=quote>

Shark Racing Big Brake kit anyone?<img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 
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