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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings everybody. I posted this question under "model specific forum"..Elantra, but no responses so far. So, here goes. I understand that shifting too soon can cause a lose of power...even 6000 rpms being to early, but I have noticed that when I take the car toward redline in FIRST that it seems to bog or reach an impasse @ 5000 rpms or so.
The car accelerates steadily as the engine winds up, then around 5 grand
the acceleration seems to plateau or
something, even though it sounds like the car should be going faster.
I feel like I'm holding the petal down trying to reach 6500 even though the power seems to have flattened out or even dropped. Any comments would be appreciated.
 

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The only thing I can say take it on the track and try different things. Depending on how you shift can make a difference. Remember when you shift keep the gas to the floor even when the clutch is in.

You should be running at least 17.5's at 78MPH totally stock. Thats just a reference.

Mine right now is running 17.2's with 17" rims, weopon-R Dragon intake, Iridium Plugs, synthetic oil, 1.8" lower and a MSD Dis-2 ignition. I have a shift light set for 6200 RPM.

Whats the point in having a fast car if you cant drive it in other than a straight line.

Future SCCA Street Modified class 2001 Elantra.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Bullrider. Two comments/questions. First, is power-shifting (gas down thru shifts) hard on the engine?? I think I read that it was. Also, Edmunds
stated that they got 16.6 in the 1/4
mile. Somewhere else I saw 16.5....all stock of course. Edmunds
apparently launched at higher and higher rpms to get those results...and the 8.4 0-60 time as well.
 

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Yeah I heard that as well. DOnt know what they were doing to get those times. Wish I did :). I'd be running in the 15's right now lol.

Its not that hard on the engine. And where do you think they are launching at?

Whats the point in having a fast car if you cant drive it in other than a straight line.

Future SCCA Street Modified class 2001 Elantra.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wish I knew too. I suppose I could try contacting em, telling em that
some of us a Hyundai Performance
forum were curious. Couldn't hurt.
Anyhoo, my ASSUMPTION is that they were launching @ 4000 or 5000, probably slipping the clutch to avoid wasted time in wheel-spin. If they started launching at say 2000 or 2500 and launched "higher and higher" they would have to be up at
4 grand at least. I'll post any info they may be willing to share.:)


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Based on the HP and Torque curves of the Beta motor, you should shift at redline, period.

Our torque curve is so flat, you CAN shift earlier, but you are sacraficing about 8 HP. Remember, Torque and HP always meet at 5252 rpm. Our HP peak is above 5252, our torque peak is below that. So...if you shift at 5000 RPM, you are not getting 140 HP (peak HP) out of your motor...only 132 ft lbs of torque (peak torque).

Take it to redline, and shift. Just don't bounce off the revlimiter, it slows you down vs a proper shift at redline.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Random, I appreciate the clarification. I have been looking around for a track in my area (central Ca.)
to try out a few launch techniques.
A friend told me about a track in Hanford...about an hour from me. I really want to see differences on the clock...not just perceptions which can be deceiving.


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Random,

you mentioned the power and torque curves for the 01 Elantra/tib motor...where can I get these!! I've been looking alll over the place for those things

sani


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Hawaii, i ran low 17's in my accent, bone stock. The elantra should be a good bit quicker than that. Hell, my best is a 16.96 @80.74 mph with just an intake.

I launch at between 2500 and 3000 rpm (so to not spin the stock pizza cutters). Try launching as the last yellow light goes out too. Once you're going, shift at redline so you stay in the power band.

Oh, and i lift the gas between shifts. Power shifting ain't all that good for the tranny.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/approve.gif width=15 height=15 border=0 align=middle>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Confucius say,
"man with hand in pocket all day not crazy, just feeling nuts"


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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Oh, and i lift the gas between shifts. Power shifting ain't all that good for the tranny.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/approve.gif width=15 height=15 border=0 align=middle>
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

The big question is "How much do you lift the gas"... For example, when shifting from 3th to 4th at 5500rpm, you lift the gas a little, just so that the revs match the speed in 4th gear. The trick is that you need to know how much you drop back in revs when you shift to the next gear.
This takes a lot of practise, but in the end you will be able to shift fast between gears without completely lifting of the gas, without burning up the clutch and keep the impact on the tranny to a minimum.

Its all about "feeling" the car.


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Discussion Starter #11
Oh yeah, thats what I'm talking about! Some strategies for launching
and shifting! Thanks for the comments guys, gives me some ideas to play with. I had heard, before
owning a Hyundai, that 2.0 beta could be a dog until you figured out
how to bring out the potential. I've also heard, mainly for my friends with Tibs, that the engine can perform like a champ when you get
the feel for it.


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Redline question

Is redline the absolute end of the tach markings or where the red lines start? Because if I remember correctly I goofed one time when I first bought my car and brought it slightly into red. Wow i'm dumb! <img src=/images/forums/snitz/disapprove.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>-Mouse

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Discussion Starter #13
Mouse, redline starts at the begining
of the red area. In my '02 Elantra
I seem to bounce of the rev limiter
before I get to redline, around 6250 or 6300. Someone else reported the same thing here recently. I usually back of the accelerator RIGHT AT 6000 or just a hair past, to avoid
hitting the rev limiter. This seems to happen mostly in first gear. Other Hyundai drivers may take the engine to red-line with no problem,
so it seems.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/uhh.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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About 1/4 mile times:
The location of the track, elevation, track temp, track condition, wind, and a host of things will affect your time. The best advice is to do lots of runs and then average your times. Random can verify this from his runs at the Cali strip that he went to.


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Stop honking I'm on the Phone!
 

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Another thing about the start... someone here (I think it was Random) explained the difference between wheel spin and wheel slip.

Basically wheel spin bad, but wheel slip good.

Wheel spin is when the tires are rotating significantly faster than the car is moving.

Wheel slip is when the tires are rotating slightly faster than the car is moving.

Wheel slip at launch is faster than no-wheel slip.

I was told to launch around 4000, but don't dump the clutch... use the clutch to prevent wheel spin, but keep it in wheel slip for a bit. I've tried it and it really seems to work well.

Maybe search old topics for wheel slip and see if you can find it... I'm sure it was explaind much better than I just did.


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1999 Blue Tiburon w/Shark Wing
 

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What the? Did they reduce the red line on the 2001 Elantras? The Beta engine redline begins at 6500, and hits the revlimiter at 6775rpms...Ideally you would shift at 6500, really 6600 if you can time it right.
Don't worry about bouncing off the rev limiter if you make a mistake. It's there for a reason.


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Discussion Starter #17
I was reading some of the driver's notes from Edmunds performance tests
of the 2001 Elantra...part of an entire article about the "E". The driver noted that, like in my experience, the car hit the rev-limiter "at 6250". I have encountered this same observation
several times on the internet...including someone posting here. I don't really "worry" about
bouncing off the limiter...I just don't like fu**ing up when I'm trying to win a race!<img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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I have used a G-Tech to measure 0 - 100 kph times on a day with 23 degress c with mild winds. I launched at 2000 rpm and when i slipped the clutch i simply gave the car juice. The revs flew to 3000 - 4000 ( hard to be exact when i was concentrating on the road ! )
and i had axle tramp and wheel spin. I reved the motor to 6500 in all gears and when i hit 100 kph i had to change into 3rd to stop the motor redlining. After all this i got and average of 4 runs of about 7.8 seconds.

The car is a Aussie Lantra with a 2ltr. Stock suspension. 98 octane fuel. 80mm duct to stock airbox with K&N. A 2 1/4 cat back exhaust with stock manifold. NGK V Groove plugs as well.

I had a passanger ( to check the times ) and the fuel gauge was just above the bottom line of the gauge.

Hope this helps!<img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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Uh... I dunno metric! But, welcome to the site! <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>


<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>-Mouse

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Cheers Mouse!

0-100kph is about 0-62mph

23 degrees c is about 73 degree Fahrenheit

I was more indicating the revs and gears i use to get the time i made. I gave more info so people can use my experiences as a guide. Sorry if it was more confusing. <img src=/images/forums/snitz/thumbup.gif width=25 height=18 border=0>

Also by reving the motor past the max power it allows the motor to "drop" back into the power band, rather than having to build back up into the power.

But hey the best thing to do is to experiment and see what work best!!



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