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Discussion Starter #1
Through searching HP I found that the Tib and elantra short shifter will work for my x3. Now I have a problem. The two plastic bushings that I had to use from my stock shifter. if I put the forward bushing in I have a hell of a time shifting and its a pain in the butt. If I put them both (forward and aft) in then I still have a hell of a time shifting. But if I leave out the forward bushing and just use the aft one I can shift smooth but there is alot of play. A lot. I've searched the forum but I couldn't seem to find anything about how to fix it. So if anyone knows or has had this trouble before. If you can give me a hand that would be grand cuz I'm at my wits end.
 

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I have an LC2 so I don't know if this will help and I'm sure how tuff your shifting is but when I installed my Short Shift in the shift was very stiff. After about a week of use though it loosened up nicely. Not sure if thats the case with you, just a thought.
 

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Installing both bushings will eliminate the play however you need to either countersink the holes so that the flat part of the bushing is almost flush with the block or sand the flat part of the bushing down so that it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But if I grind the flat part of the bushing wont that cause it to just free float inside the shaft?
 

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Only if you grind all of it away. You really only need to grind about half the thickness on each one so basically you want to remove the thickness of one bushing (flat part). Just be careful that you don't break the bushing like I did. If you do break one or sand too much you can find the same bushings in the shifter arm that you removed and don't need. There are a number of ways of getting around this problem, it just depends on what tools you have available. If you have a grinding wheel available you could also grind the face of the block where the holes are.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So just using a grinding wheel and taking alittle off the actual block where the hole are itself would work to? How much would I have to take off do you think? I do have a grinder and I've already went through like 2 bushings and I don't wanna mess anymore up.
 

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Well basically you want the whole assembly (bushings and all) to just fit into the base without any front to back play. However it has to loose enough so that the shifter will return to the neutral position when the return spring is reinstalled. With mine (Megan Racing STS) I had to remove about 3/4-1 thickness of one bushing. So in essence I probably removed about 3/8-1/2 of the material from each bushing. If you are using a new or non-modified bushing then you need to do the same to the block itself if you are going to modify the block itself. I would try remove the same amount from each side so that it keeps the block centred. Now when I mentioned the grinder I was referring to a bench grinder not a hand grinder so if you are using a hand grinder take it easy and try to get it as flat as possible. BTW what kind of shifter are you trying to install? I ask because I will update my DIY if it is a different shifter than the one I installed. Also if you can get some pics of your modification process I'll add them to my DIY as well because I forgot to get some when I did mine. Hope this helps, and lemme know how it goes. Good Luck.
 
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