Hyundai Forum: Hyundai Performance Forum banner
21 - 40 of 75 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
if I ever get into that the following would be my way of doing it:
I am contemplating now as the accent is not really powerful enough, bu there again it is made not be and I might as well keep it that way.

The turbo installed on the exhuast

By that I mean a turbo mounted to manifold right and then a exhuast system to teh back of the car?!

what do I have? a Naturally aspirated car that has its exhuast going through a turbo.
then after the Air Flow Sensor, it is cut and taken to turbo intake and from there to the throttle body.

Somewhere after the turbo in my opinion there MUSSTTT be a BOV. or else something is going to break. I think it is almost impossible to the keep the piping in place as the air charge will blow anything.

This should be sufficient for a FEW PSi's of boost.

Given the COMPLEXITY (capitalized to emphesize the fact) and pickyness of OBD2 equipped car, I can not imagine the car not throwing Check Engine lights even with a few PSi's. Probabely anything more than that and the ECU will cut the fuel as a safeguard.


Given the circumstances I might try to have an intercooler after the turbo as I have no AC and hell lot of space to work with.(unlike what I have to deal with in my Turbo 4G63 Galant)

I personally don't see a need for retarded ignition. I am not sure but I'd imagine there is some way to retard the base timing and consequentially the timing throughout the operating range.

Do these engines have Knock Sensor. It is quite likely that they would. If so, the task becomes much easier.


I am not sure about hyundai's as they are built to be cheap but usually every car's fuel system allows for some forced induction as the engineers leave some margin in the capacity of the Injectors and fuel pump. But there again one is needed to walk on the line to actually rely on those for the fuel needs of the car. But I would personally do it unless I see noticable knock sum or dropped Air/Fuel ratio via a good wide band.


if one can install the turbo: which involves the manifold and exhaust AS WELL AS oil routes and possibly water lines the rest is not that hard.

As for the point made regarding interna WG not opening until 7PSi, that is true and should be dealt with properly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
For the oil, I read somewhere that you could use an oil filter relocation kit. This will help you avoid drilling the oil pan. You just gotta make sure the hoses are very strong
 

· Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Hey! Check out www.essentialspeed.com for your turbo kits, if they don't have one made for your car, they can custom build one.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello, I own a hyundai tiburon 1.6 fx and i am truelly disapointed with it's power.... i am really in need to add some horse power.... and i do not know what to do, because all power kits are for the 2.0l and 2.7v6. Actually the 1.6l in europe(portugal) is more expensive than the v6 in the US doe to taxes...incredible ha????
Where should i start?my car only has 105 horse power!
I was thinking in turbo. You that already have installed turbo's please advise me, and tell me where i can find parts for the 1.6l DHOC engine.
best regards JSS
 

· Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Originally posted by Clean2k1Shark
[body]
Well, in my continued search for power without spending a TON of money, I've decided to try turbo, once again, since I'm a little over the nitrous stuff. My friends and I were talking about the small amount of parts we could have to run a turbo. We don't know TOO much, so don't laugh. My question is, is it possible to run a turbo at VERY low PSI with just the Exhaust Manifold and the Turbine? My guess at first was definently not, since the high heat and stuff, but what are the bare-minimums to have when running very low boost, and I mean, low low low, because I don't have a big budget. I'm going to sell the Nitrous (hint hint) and just go plain out turbo. I'm looking for deals all the time, but just knowing what I REALLY need just to get going in the first place is what I'm after, then when I decide to go higher boost, I'll get the more necessary stuff.

So yea, what do I need to run LOW boost (besides manifold, turbine and intercooler)

-- when I say low, i mean just low enough to ride around and say "look, i have turbo." but still be able to drive around without frying the engine. --:rambo:

[/body]
You need
1 - manifold to bolt up to your block
2- turbo to bolt to your turbo manifold (with internal wastegate - find one/low cost)
3- piping to run from either side of your turbo
(inlet to cone-filter) (exhaust into intercooler then to throttle body)
4-intercooler small one cheap
5- blow off valve (recirculating) to sit between throttle body and MAF
6 - something like a smt6 to adjust timing fueling
7- a few guages so you can see if anything is wrong/goes wrong (boost,oilpressure)

only run 4PSI to be safe not sorry

eventually upgrade your clutch & exhaust to 2.5 all throughout but not a necessity...with 4psi
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
so what comes in the hp turbo kit, and what else would you need? I'm trying to do the same thing to my 2000 elantra as well, for the same reason...nobody else will. I'm flirting with getting the 4-1 headers and exhaust system before I turbo. Will they absolutely not be compatible with the hp turbo kit?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Originally posted by Slow 2K2GT
[body]
I talked to the guy at K-spec and the Garrett/Spinwheels bolt on kit they have will work nicely, I know that with the returnless fuel system in my 02 ELantra. The thing I wondered about was a new ignition system, I guess its a must have
[/body]
WHy does "K-Spec" sound like a k-mart brand honda swap?

:evil:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
as far as turbochargers go, this is something that you want to be very thorough on, considering you can totally screw up an engine/tranny if done incorrectly. first off, im not sure of the compression ratio of a tib, but the accent is not really turbo friendly. turbo cars usually have like 8:1 or 8.5:1 comp. ratio, and i think that my accent has 10:1. this alone is unsafe if you just slap a turbo on. you HAVE to have fuel managment and spark stuff. bigger injectors is a must; you will realize very soon that the fuel delivery is not sufficient enough if you dont do anything to it. you should also get a high flow fuel pump. an msd ignition is good enough for your spark delivery.

you also have to have a controller of some sort. an S-AFC will do, or somesort of standalone will be perfect. if you dont get these, your car will run like ass and could also be dangerous to the engine.

so you should definitly spend teh extra dollars and get those cuz it will save you a lot in the long run.

as far as boost controllers go, you could just run the pressure off the intake manifold and be good for 5-7 lbs of boost. its cheap, but then again, you can get a manual boost controller off ebay for like 20 bux, so you might as well get that.

you definitly should get a BOV. of not, you risk getting compressor surge and will GREATLY reduce the life of your turbo. now since you want to run low boost, an intercooler is not really needed, but again, you should probably get it just to be safe. when your dealing with your engine life and durablilty, its better to be safe than sorry.

now since you are an auto, you really shouldnt be running high boost anyways, cuz auto tranies are not as strong as a manual tranny.

dont forget turbos are water cooled and oil cooled, so you will have to figure some way of hooking them to teh car.

in the end, a kit is probably your best bet. it has all teh stuff you need, and you dont have to worry about getting bad parts that are used.

just my .02 cents.

(i.e. i have been in the 3000gt community for a while, so i read about this stuff all the time)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Thats funny that you wrote an IC is not needed. Everyone iv talked to and everything iv read has told me that if you have a small engine with a small turbo you MUST have an IC if you plan on keeping your car after one run at full boost. With the small turbo and stock exhaust all the back pressure will create far too much heat for the engine to handle. And correct me if im wrong because i plan to go turbo as soon as it starts to warm up again. Thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
some kits dont include an intercooler, but then will limit you to a low psi.

http://essentialspeed.com/shop/detail.asp?product_id=ESHY1s&&cat=&category=&cat1=2&cat2=113

its cheaper, but limits you to 6psi. now ofcourse everybody wants huge HP numbers and will go with an intercooler, but since the original starter of the thread said he only wanted it so say he had one, spending the extra money for an intercooler wouldnt be necessary if you dont care about HP. bit like i said, i would get one just to be safe, even if you dont plan on running huge numbers...

now if it was me, i would totally get an intercooler cuz im all about big numbers and speed:evil:

[Edited by mrstealth on Jan 13, 2005 9:08 PM]
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hey guys, I jsut picked up my sself a 2001 Tiburon and man i love the car. I don't know much about the motor wheather its a betta or rd type, all i know its a 2.0 DOHC. But iam lookin to do up the performance some and make it snapier, iam not much of a speed freak but i love the gs of acceleration, what should i do to it to achive this goal and where do i get this stuff since i live in canada??
 

· Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
Several points - you can get oil cooled ONLY turbo's(usually older models)
- non intercooled engines make less pwr but aftermarket management can simply retard timing further to compensate(NO they are not necessary) Having one means you can have higher comp,advanced timing or more boost.
-having NO BOV doesn't hurt your turbo(HEAPS of oem turbo cars DON'T have BOV's-although they do have an overboost valve which is set rather conservatively and rarely opens(pulsar et my friend drove had one set at 10psi and almost never opened) His car had no cooler.Stock fwd c18det's(nissan)RB30et's etc don't have coolers either.BOV's are there for two reasons-first is to keep compressor spinning faster(less delay between shifts(almost unneccessary on auto's)) and for poser value PSSSST/WHOOOSH etc! 8D
- 10.5 compression is no obstacle,most modern turbo cars have 9.5 to 1 compression and above
-HVE make low compression gaskets(drops approx 0.5 to 1 off standard)And gasket specialists can make em bigger
-What about water injection or CO2 cooling??Cheap and it works CO2 bottle looks like nitrous :)
-Aftermarket management can take care of boost dependent retard curves in your ignition maps
-SO... the answer is,get management FIRST and fuel system to cope and then with a low boost turbo 7psi&under (or how about a supercharger with a big pulley(low boost 5psi for example(belt drive vortech is good)) you can run it non intercooled without a BOV and enjoy loads of torque. Just make sure the aftermarket management is DYNO TUNED by PROFESSIONALS

OF COURSE YOU CAN ALWAYS JUST PICK UP THE PHONE BOOK AND LOOK UP "TURBO CHARGERS" and PHONE THEM!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Originally posted by aggressivedriver
[body]
so what comes in the hp turbo kit, and what else would you need? I'm trying to do the same thing to my 2000 elantra as well, for the same reason...nobody else will. I'm flirting with getting the 4-1 headers and exhaust system before I turbo. Will they absolutely not be compatible with the hp turbo kit?
[/body]
The exhaust should be compatible, but not the headers. Dont waste your money of that crap. Just wait and save for the turbo.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Originally posted by skierd
[body]
You ran a 17 with nitrous?:??: I think hte first thing we need to work on is the driver.

You NEED these parts:
Manifold
Turbo
Turbo-back exhuast
Intercooler
Intake piping
Blow Off Valve
Peformance clutch (if you had a 5psd)
All associated gaskets, fittings, lines, etc

You will also NEED fuel and spark management, using something like larger injectors, an fuel computer like the SAFC, Perfect Power SMT6, HKS AFC, etc, and a way to retard your ignition, like the MSD DIS-2.

Now what you buy and where you get it will determine how much everything costs. One word of advice: DONT skimp on the manifold, turbo or the fuel/spark management. Thats the stuff that'll make the car not run anymore when it breaks.
[/body]
Dude, lol. I ran a 17.25 in my Tiburon that only has CAI in it...whoa..Wanna race? lol
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,879 Posts
ebay. if you are on a budget and want to move, thats where you start. in my case, the most expensive things in my setup would of been safc, clutch, and intercooler. turbos, manifolds, and all that other stuff can be found for cheap on ebay. also look in junkyards. i picked up a t3 for 44 bucks. its all a matter of searching.
 
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
Top