[grahamsansone]

Originally posted by Clean2k1Shark
[body]
Well, in my continued search for power without spending a TON of money, I've decided to try turbo, once again, since I'm a little over the nitrous stuff. My friends and I were talking about the small amount of parts we could have to run a turbo. We don't know TOO much, so don't laugh. My question is, is it possible to run a turbo at VERY low PSI with just the Exhaust Manifold and the Turbine? My guess at first was definently not, since the high heat and stuff, but what are the bare-minimums to have when running very low boost, and I mean, low low low, because I don't have a big budget. I'm going to sell the Nitrous (hint hint) and just go plain out turbo. I'm looking for deals all the time, but just knowing what I REALLY need just to get going in the first place is what I'm after, then when I decide to go higher boost, I'll get the more necessary stuff.

So yea, what do I need to run LOW boost (besides manifold, turbine and intercooler)

-- when I say low, i mean just low enough to ride around and say "look, i have turbo." but still be able to drive around without frying the engine. --:rambo:

(2001 Tiburon, automatic, CAI, 2.25" cat, muffler, 55 Zex)

(17.104 1/4 time -without nitrous-... shootin for 13-14's, 200whp, whatever comes first)


[Edited by Clean2k1Shark on May 22, 2003 5:44 AM]


Hi there I am still new to this sight.

I saw your posting and i am in your shoes well nearly. i have a 1995 accent and I am going to place a turbo on shortly t25 and a new cam shaft BD10 hoping to reach a good lump of BHp what do you think?

The system will work on a suck trought system!!

Graham:bandit::bandit:

 

[grahamsansone]

HI CAN ANY ONE GIVE A SUGGESTION? i HAVE A HYUNDAI ACCENT 1995 1300CC 12V AND I AM THINKING OF PUTTING A TURBO ON T25 AND A PSI OF 0.8 AND CHANGING THE CAM TO A BD10. HOPING TO GET THE MAXIMUM OUT OF MY ENGINE. AND I AM ALSO CHANGING THE IGNITION TO AN MSD SYSTEM WITH A COIL OF 45000 VOLTS A 8MM WIRES TO REDUCE ANY MISS FIRES ON HIGH REVES.

DO YOU THINK I AM GOING ON THE RIGHT TRACK??

GRAHAM

 

[ArunSenior04]

Can some create a definitive list on what is needed to successfully and safely run turbo at a decent PSI for an automatic? there seems to be an argument in this thread whether certain things are needed or not.

Are there any kits available for an 01 Elantra that includes everthing, or close ot it?

Thanks

 

[xtibbyx]

ok, im only 16 and i dont know alot about my tibby, i wanna get a new computer for it to add horse...just was wonderin if anyone knew were i could get one

 

[05accent]

Yea i just bought a 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS 1.6L DOHC, about a month ago. all i did so far was a XSP inake.. now im lookin, it is a great intake, i really noticed a difference, and it sounds great.. now i am just lookin or tryin to get ideas for my next upgrade. any suggestions...... without breaking my bank.... :ermm:

 

[renantepayne]

You would still need decompression gasket for the engine 3-4mm.
7-10 psi of boost.

From buying secondhand parts for my car from ebay japan.
Turbo needs to be brand new, just get the best price.

Everything else can be secondhand in good condition.
manifold
blow off valve eg hks ssqv bov
fuel injectors
get an ECU that runs both fuel and ignition eg haltech, motec.

 

[boostedshark]

well it depends how hard your going to push it. If you run low boost you are goign to wwant to turn it up for more power.

 

[villageidiot001]

just as a sugestion have you looked into water or alcohol injection as it lowers your detionation point substansully and can be had for fairly cheep for low boost applications.

 

[H I N]

What's about pistons and conecting rods?? How much boost i could run with stock pistons and rods?? Especially in Tiburon I-4 2.0 CVVT beta engine??

 

[pronboy]

turboooooooooo is a no no for you.

too many variables to consider especially when you don't know much. it's not a project you should consider.

buy a kit designed for your car, not just some generic kit and have a tuner install. if not, just buy a new car!

 

[H I N]

I don't think so. I want buy Tib GK, probably with I4 and when I'll earn some money i want to make Turbo upgrade. I tought about supercharging or turbocharging, I asked few peoples and now I know for me is better Turbo. Now i don't know will it be bolt on kit or custom (bolt on I have to buy in US and ship it to my country, paying all the taxes, it will be cost much, custom work in my country can be cheaper).

Answer for my question is: stock bottom end in Tib 2.0 I4 should run on 14- 15 psi boost (which gives about 250- 280 HP) without any problems. I didn't asked about compression ratios, but I think it should be lower. Last time I red about one guy which ran 18 psi boost (stock bottom end) few days and hasn't any problems- he dynoed car and has about 300 HP.

Sorry If I made any errors

 

[BOR]

Last time I red about one guy which ran 18 psi boost (stock bottom end) few days and...

:?
Yup, few days. 100% right. No more...

 

[1bad03tibby]

If it is 2 much trouble 2 use turbo, try Alpine's bolt on supercharger! It takes no special mods. The stage 0 kit costs $2400. It boosts 4 lbs. and gives you an estimated 40 hp.:

 

[accent2003gt]

anyone have a clue as too how much boost an LC2's stock pistons can handle? and how much would be good for a daily driver? i got an 03 accent gt, 1.6L

 

[hyundaiturbo97]

hi all i need to know how to remap my car i have a hyundai lantra built date 97 its a j2 sedan and it has a loom under the drivers side for the computer i need to know what type of program i can use and what connections and how to remap it to go better please get back with al info and where to download the programs form thanks heaps!!!
i have a laptop and pc i need to know all the info how to do it to my car get back asap thanks ....hotchick!!!

 

[Tibby93]

came across a possible scam: www.turbonator.com

Anyone try this air flow type deallio thingamajigger? I'm actually pondering about it, but its expensive for a thin piece of sheet metal.

 

[Scrubhr]

Originally posted by skierd
[body]
You ran a 17 with nitrous?:??: I think hte first thing we need to work on is the driver.

You NEED these parts:
Manifold
Turbo
Turbo-back exhuast
Intercooler
Intake piping
Blow Off Valve
Peformance clutch (if you had a 5psd)
All associated gaskets, fittings, lines, etc

You will also NEED fuel and spark management, using something like larger injectors, an fuel computer like the SAFC, Perfect Power SMT6, HKS AFC, etc, and a way to retard your ignition, like the MSD DIS-2.

Now what you buy and where you get it will determine how much everything costs. One word of advice: DONT skimp on the manifold, turbo or the fuel/spark management. Thats the stuff that'll make the car not run anymore when it breaks.
[/body]

I realise this is quite an old post, I just wanted to set this straight for whoever else comes across it. If you installed the SMT6 you would not need a MSD DIS-2 system to retard ignition, the SMT6 would do this for you. In fact you should be able to advance timing as well.

 

[The Rubicon]

Same with greddy emanage that is what i have im running 10 psi daily right now

lol dang i ran 15.5 at 85 mph with a 2.4 60ft with just a I/H/E setup before the turbo

 

[esteinmaier]

Turbo 101:

You need a turbo. To run on stock internals, something small would be preferential, as a big turbo would take forever to spool with no top end benefit.

You need a wastegate. Most turbos are internally wastegated, so this is probably not a problem.

You need plumbing to get the air from the turbo to the throttle body. Preferably with an intercooler in between.

You need some sort of fuel system. The engine is not going to need any more fuel at idle but much more during boost, so you either need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and a 1:1 for off-boost, or a full standalone system. This is critical, as if you try to run any boost at all without giving it more fuel, you're suddenly lean, and BOOM! You made power for about 5 seconds before melting a piston, shattering a rod, disassembling your ringlands, etc.

You need to route your exhaust back to the back of the car, as the turbo with it's new manifold will be replacing your current manifold.

You need to retard timing, especially at a 10.5:1 compression ratio. You don't do this, you motor is gonna do the same thing as if it goes lean.

You need monitoring equipment. Boost gauge, wideband air/fuel ratio gauge, oil pressure, etc. If you don't know what's going on, it could very well be blowing itself up.

You need to tune it. If you've gotten this far, and still know what's going on, you probably have read some other stuff that's gonna tell you what ratios to run, base fuel pressures at certain size injectors, etc.

I don't know Hyundais at all, but these same principals apply. I'm in the process of doing an oversize 16g turbo on a RRFPR fuel system right now on a neon. 9.3:1 compression ratio for now, later dropping to 8.6:1. If you can safely do it on 10.5:1 with as little knowledge as it appears you possess, I will be astounded. If you want to boost, either pay someone else to do it, or spend the next year of your life reading.

Oh yea. A BOV is a great idea to have. You close the throttle body after full boost, you are surging the pressure back to the turbo. At low boost levels, it just prematurely wears seals and pops off boost piping. At higher boost levels, it bends compressor fins, and does serious damage to a turbo. Even an auto should have one. The difference being that the MTX will close the throttle body between shifts, and the auto will only close after the run. Lots of people will tell you not to put one on. Take my word for it, it's cheap insurance.

Good luck. Hyundais are great cars, and need more of a presence in the mod/import scene.

[Edited by esteinmaier on Jun 4, 2006 6:24 PM]

 

[xr4man]

in my opinion, if you are looking for low boost numbers such as 7psi, then you'll omnly get 30 to 50 more horses. you'd be better off using a supercahrger because you will not have to find a manifold to bolt the turbo to. you won't have any turbo lag and because the sc isn't mountedt o the exaust mani it will run cooler and thereby reducing the need for an ic.

personally i think the cost of either setup is not worth it to get an extra 50 horses. for that you should just chop the head, port intake and exaust, throw a header and high flow exaust on and be done with it. $500 vs $5000