[xr4man]

another thing for you all to consider about going turbo is that suddenly you systems that run ona vacume are gonna have to run under pressure. thing slike your power brakes aren't going to work right. you'll have to place a check valve and probably some sort of vacume canister in line with the vacume hose for the brake booster to hold a vacume so you can stop when you want to. also if you have cruise control, it won't work under pressure either.

 

[alex01tib]

i know this is old but i just thought id mention that / that / isnt right, when your brakes are being applied you arent pushing boost so your vacuum powers the brakes just fine. I had no issues with missing vacuum when boosting.

 

[Jeffstib]

I heard that a stock 2000 tiburon can run 14 psi boost . is that true???

also where can i find the computer upgrades for fuel, ignition such as the smt6 ect.... thxs

 

[Coal_forge]

you could try a search engine or the handy dandy search button on top of the screen.

 

[allenlavaty]

this is all u need for a 9psi turbo

Well i have a 2001 tiburon 2.0 beta1 with the beta2 intake cam. I run my own automotive shop so i do all my own work for a turbo setup all u need if runing from 5 to 6 psi you dont need a smt-6 yet or even a SFAC yet if ypu are runing 8psi to 12psi you will need>>>>>>
Turo t3 super 60.
intercooler.
G ready BOV.
2.5 or 3 in piping kit
Oil Lines for turbo.
MAF sensor befor turbo.
a O2 simulator for the second O2 to tric and think u still have a cat on your car witch u WONT, lol
440cc injectors from ford racing (green Tops)
RRFPR set at 44 psi at idle.
E manage blue
Reset ECM.
and thats it 2500 dollars or less
O a walbro 255 fuel pump (a must have)

-- when I say low, i mean just low enough to ride around and say "look, i have turbo." but still be able to drive around without frying the engine. --:rambo:

(2001 Tiburon, automatic, CAI, 2.25" cat, muffler, 55 Zex)

(17.104 1/4 time -without nitrous-... shootin for 13-14's, 200whp, whatever comes first)


[Edited by Clean2k1Shark on May 22, 2003 5:44 AM][/QUOTE]

 

[Jeffstib]

i'm gonna install an 1989 chrysler lebaron turbo on my stock 2.0l tiburon using my factury manifold, a ic and a blow off valve i'll let you know how it goes. ps the stock max output of the turbo is 7.5 psi. and no computer upgrades.

 

[allenlavaty]

i'm gonna install an 1989 chrysler lebaron turbo on my stock 2.0l tiburon using my factury manifold, a ic and a blow off valve i'll let you know how it goes. ps the stock max output of the turbo is 7.5 psi. and no computer upgrades.

Right on bro letts me know

 

[Clippah]

can anyone tell me what the easiest turbo setup for an 01 accent could be. ive got a tiny t 3/4 air reasearch i think out of an old saab. i plan on only running 5-6psi, does that mean there is a possibility that i can run without an IC? and the only other thing im worried about is fuel, what size injectors should i use for such low boost?

 

[allenlavaty]

hey if you want to run 5 to 6psi i would get an IC for sure just to be safe. hyundai motors use aluminum pistons so they cant take to much heat. I would just get a FPR and set it ar 48psi at idle with vac line hooked up. that will push more fuel out of your stock inj wich are only 240cc. if you go with diffrent inj like 310 or 440cc you will have to get a emanga blue to shut the light off. the stock ecu only likes so mutch fuel trim.
read my post it tells you what u need. And Please get a wideband TRUST ME!!!!!!

 

[Clippah]

ok, i think thats pretty easy and self explanitory, but what about a turbo head gasket, i got some people tellin me i need one even at 6psi, and others are sayin i dont need one unless i run 8psi to 1bar

 

[Clippah]

i forgot to ask in my last post, lol, but how much more would the stock injectors be pushing out with the fpr set at 48psi?

 

[allenlavaty]

well you can go up to 14psi on stock 10:3:1 Comp and stock MAF Sensor, meny have im at 12psi going strong for 1year now ,know problems but it takes lots of fueling to do so. After 14psi you will need somthing to controll timing and a biger MAF Sensor. you dont wont to go over 6psi with stock fuel, A FPR will be god for now. but with that high compretion you need more fuel then a low comp engine to keep from pre detnation, and melting a piston.

 

[Clippah]

haha. ok thats good to know. can you reccomend a good fpr that i should buy? Ive got to get another turbo manifold, i had one but sold it cause i needed the $$ at the time. There was a guy on here that said he could make me a log mani for like 200$ but i dont remember who it was :/

 

[allenlavaty]

haha. ok thats good to know. can you reccomend a good fpr that i should buy? Ive got to get another turbo manifold, i had one but sold it cause i needed the $$ at the time. There was a guy on here that said he could make me a log mani for like 200$ but i dont remember who it was :/

Ebay dude for sure get the obx turbo header and piping too, oh and your injectores will pump up to 260cc with the fuel up to 60 psi at off idle. For as far as a FPR get a Airomotive or one off E-Bay

 

[geezer101]

If it is 2 much trouble 2 use turbo, try Alpine's bolt on supercharger! It takes no special mods. The stage 0 kit costs $2400. It boosts 4 lbs. and gives you an estimated 40 hp.:

...this is why there are forums. The user posting this should do the maths. It would cost $60 to make 1 HP with this kit. With basic bolt ons and factory swapped cam in a Beta I engine you can achieve 30 HP+ for under $300 ($1 per HP) No extra belts or pulleys, no sacrifice of power steering or A/C to install it. There is no mention of parasitic loss caused by the supercharger either. Depending on the engine and set up, this can be as much as 20% (hypothetically you could use an SC on lets say a 2.0 Beta I with 140 HP and lose 28 HP just running the SC... not good)

*edert. I fail math on dis one... should be $10 per HP and that is in AUD so the budget would be even tighter in USD.