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Still overheating while boosting... Serious help needed

1440 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  rbuecker
Ok, I finally tuned the emanage WITH a wideband and everything at wot is from 12.5:1 to 13-13:5.1. So, I don't have a tuning problem anymore. But the damn car still overheat while boosting 4th and 5th pass 4k rpm. I mean the temperature starts to rise and when I let off the gas, it comes to normal temperature. No symptoms on idle , traffic.The car is perfectly ok. I even changed the thermostat, flushed the rad, redid everything but nothing. The head gasket is new, no leaks there, no yellow sh!t with the oil, and clean coolant. I'm suspecting my radiator as I have the half-size one, but is this possible? I mean I only run 9psi of boost and the damn car overheats. I don't have the coolant lines installed to the t25 but I suppose that would be worse as the cooland fluid will heat up faster. Any ideas please? I need serious help here
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13.5 is too lean!

Keep it between 11-12 and you'll be in much better shape.

Hook up the coolent lines to the turbo. It will make the turbo last longer, and you may be getting the turbo very hot and radiating the heat to the radiator.

Also, you should try an oil cooler to see if you can get the temps down as well.

Good luck.
Yes you need those coolant lines. Without them the turbo is making much more heat this is needed and i am SURE that heat is pooring on the radiator! Also as mentioned that is way to lean, I tuned at wot an 11.5 (which is sometimes considered a tad bit rich but safe). I think you should also do a compression test on the motor to see how turns up.
wow.. at wot after 4500rpm I am 12:1 and 11.5:1 , below that I am 12, 13 isnt' this good? So coolant lines make that difference ha?Just to keep it safe I just ordered an oil cooler.

[Edited by japakos on Sep 22, 2006 1:53 PM]
Yeah im 11.5 under boost at all times regardless of rpm. I cant say for sure how much difference the coolant lines make in terms of heat but i am positive they definitely create more heat. The oil cooler is a great idea. Did you get a little bit cooler thermostat? Mine is like 10-15degrees cooler... Also hotwire your fans, that definitely works to your advantage. I only hotwired my driver side fan but most people hotwire both of them. Actually since you have the 1/2 radiator you may only have one not sure. Either way HOTWIRE IT!
I'm going to do that hotwiring in the morning. The cooler it's on it's way and I'm going to use the coolant lines as well. I don't want to suspect something like a crack in the head or sth tho.. I don't think it is because there are no leaks or yellow stuff in the oil.
also install a small cooler after the coolant lines that way the hot water isn't dumped back into the system

Cool the water before it is recerculated!

i wonder if there's any electrical interference between your tach and coolant temp signal

do you have an oscilloscope? :eek:gre:
Do you have a single core radiator?
My radiator is the stock half/size for LC.Maybe if I could switch to a full size one then my problem dissapears. I don't know what ti say..
i changed my mind and i'm going to say that its your water pump. the shaft isnt completely attached to the fins 100% any longer, and as the timing belt drives it faster through the revs the propeller slows down and becomes ineffective.
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