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Discussion Starter #1
I cant get the Intake Manifold Stay bolts off, Its the support thing, and since it is on the back of the IM, its on an odd position and I cannot get a bigger handle in, and I dont have any impact tools, expensive, anyone have any other ideaS?

:(


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Small blast of c-4 might do the trick...

JGraham9382
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Patience grasshoppa, patience.

I just used a standard "U" joint on my socket, and it did the trick. But if you are having serious problems...try having a friend hold the socket/wrench, and slip a length of pipe over the wrench...then get it from UNDER the car.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I might try that tomorrow, with the bottoms ones, the top one were in so tight, we ended up stripping them :(

if worse comes to worse, i will cut the manifold stay, and buy a new one.


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The pipe Random was speaking of gives you leverage. How'd you strip th bolts?, you were using sockets right?
 

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You can always remove the bolts that hold manifold brace at the bottom from under the car. That should allow you to remove the IM and brace as one unit. you can then take those bolts off at your leisure.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I got the bolts off, found my breaker bar, and lots of wd-40.

It all back together and ran , but I am a little confused with the results, now of course this all feel and not just a dyno.

It feels stronger in mid range, but it feels very weaker on the low end and high end from like 5-6krpm it was rather slow.

from 500-2500rpms it was slow from 2500-5k it felt like it had alot of power and torque, but the revs seemed rather loud.

I am gonan check my throttle cable, maybe the plate not opening fully.


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Check the gasket seals on the TB and the IM. Make sure you have that thing in there and seated correctly. Spray some wd-40 around both gaskets. If the idle changes when you do that....your gaskets are leaking air.

It should have no change on low RPM performance, and it should start to pick up around 3500 RPM. From 3500 to 6500 it should be good for another 2-4 HP and torque per Yamaneko's dyno test of the onpol modified BTB and BIM.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think the ECU just needed some time learning about it, everything is smooth now, I dont really notice it pull harder or accel faster.

But I do notice when I switch on the a/c there is no powerloss like it had before. so for that I am happy


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