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2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Decided to join up for the helluvit. I own a J2 series Lantra Sportswagon GLS 2.0. Had it for a few years now and it has been growing on me. It was never meant to have been anything more than a work hack but it has slowly evolved. Is it pretty? - nope. Fully optioned - power windows/mirrors/antenna, power steering, A/C (which still works) driving lights and a PO fitted a front alloy nudge bar/pedestrian masher. It spent part of it's life as a surfer grom mobile. Subsequently the roof has a few spots of rust around the roof rack supports and the clear coat is now mostly chalk. Engine blew spectacularly about 230,000 kms from PO's lack of maintenance and a failed radiator. But it got home under it's own steam with nearly zero compression and catastrophic overheating. I thought it was done and decided to do an autopsy which revealed bad rings and very gummed up internals. Sent the head off to get checked (passed testing and trueness) so I glued it back together after a quick once over of the bores and some new standard size rings, fitted a decent used radiator and it lived once more. And that's when I got bitten...

Mods and upgrades:

-16" alloy wheels and low profile tyres (bought them from a wholesaler closing up shop - uber bargain)
-cross drilled and slotted front disc rotors + Brembo composite pads (magical land of ebay)
-Exidy sports clutch and pressure plate (grabs nicely - still tame to drive)
-rear end swap from drum to disc with hand brake cables Tiburon/FX coupe (U-pull-it...)
-rear stabiliser bar Tiburon/FX coupe (U-pull-it...)
-rear strut and springs Tiburon/FX coupe (U-pull-it...)
-air intake duct modification (DIY 75mm PVC stormwater pipe - original air box retained)
-intake cam swap Tiburon/FX coupe (thanks for the tips guys - awesome upgrade :cool:)
-stainless steel headers + wrap (hella cheap ebay deal - they were garbage, took 2 weeks of grinding to derestrict them flex join failed after 3 months. got a shop to weld in a new HD 6" flex I had lying around. Now they are bueno!)
-rear muffler delete Tiburon/FX coupe (U-pull-it...) my wagon actually deleted the muffler by itself first :ROFLMAO:
-cut down floor shifter + cheap billet gear knob and leather look shifter boot (because why not?)
-removed counterweight from gearbox selector input (feels crisper/more direct)
-Tiburon/FX coupe steering wheel (horn pad collapsed - that wasn't annoying at all...)
-front strut tower brace (ebay special - needs better strut brackets...)
-instrument backlighting and exterior turn + parking lights swapped to T10 LED's
-headlight inserts upgraded to H4 LED's (waaaay better but not great for longetivity - need to install my voltage regulators and dial them down to 10.4v as I'm on my second set)
-used car audio stuff. vintage Philips XP640 amp, SAS 10" sub tube, JVC head unit with USB/aux input (got a used set of Kicker splits for up front pending...) kids, you need a decent subwoofer...

Only plans I have are upgrades and some mandatory repairs when something breaks. Gear box is begging for mercy (planning for Elantra G-box swap), drive shafts are toast (one is a nasty chinese shaft that is locked into the transaxle) and I'd like to do something with the mushy engine/gearbox mounts once it's apart. May do an Elantra gear shift assembly swap with an aftermarket short shift but my DIY shifter is adequate so far. It goes better than it should, looks rough, exhaust is loud but not obnoxious. Really needs a full exhaust replacement but I'll keep patching it til I have surplus funds. (2.25" stainless mandrel bent system would be my pick) A stage 2 flywheel/clutch kit would be on my wish list too. I'm not worried about the cosmetics too much - it has been written off...twice. Once when a kid on a Kawasaki tried to go through the passenger front door and a second time when some guy let his GF drive his Focus ST and she backed into me under full throttle. Both proved to not result in structural damage, just panels and body sill and were repaired without too much drama. Wheel alignment check came up clean with no apparent issues. It also has some electrical gremlins living in the back that have affected the rear wiper and 3rd brake light that I'd like to get onto when I have free time. I've got a cheap competition F1 style 3rd brake light I want to mount up once I've managed to debug the electrics.

If you made it to the end, thanks for reading. Go get a cookie or something :)
 

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Well done for keeping it on the road, there's not a lot around anymore.

I've had my daily driver, a 1998 Sportswagon for 18 years. Motor blew at 180,000 kilometres in 2007, chucked a 2nd hand 1.8 litre engine in and it's been pretty bulletproof since.
I give it an oil and filter change every 5000 kilometres and it just keeps on going.

355,000 kilometres so far.
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Noice. Mine is hitting the 320,000 k + now. I still see decent examples of the Sportswagon on the road - mine is not one of them lol. After the Focus fiasco my drivers front corner panel fitment has been sketchy at best. A friend of mine pointed out that the end of the chassis rail extension is slightly twisted, causing the radiator to not sit correctly. Pulling the front nudge bar off is an ordeal, but I'd have to remove it so I could strip down the front end and massage the end of the rail to bring everything back into alignment... I do all of the maintenance and servicing on it. The engine gets a flush out when the HLA's get noisy (mix of diesel and 20/50w - drive for a day) I run it on 95 and I find it runs smoother and performs better. Not cheap but I get some improvement on MPG. Recently I pulled the original O2 sensor out and dropped in into my ultrasonic cleaner as I already knew it wasn't working properly (or maybe at all). I figured I had nothing to lose by trying it. This week it managed approx 550kms on a full tank and I have a feeling this has been the most economical it has run in a long time. Cost me some power though. If I wasn't lead footing it, it probably would've been even better. I really beat on this car and it takes it all day - with about 100 kgs of tools and crap in the back.
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, got a cheap oil catch can from AliExpress delivered today. Been meaning to get one for a while now. Hopefully it will help reduce oil vapour from entering the intake.
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
...and now a few pics of the Hung Dog wagon (the Hoon-dai?)
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

Rear disc swap with cable installed. Requires matching strut assembly for the compatible brake hose bracket
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Car Motor vehicle

16" wheels with 50 series low profile tyres. Tyre wall does scrub on the inner lip under full load
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Crankset Bicycle part Rim Automotive tire Vehicle brake

Garbage ebay headers. Runners weren't aligned with the ports on the mounting flange. Ports were heavily restricted. 2 weeks of reworking them with various die grinders and mini cut off wheels
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Automotive tire Rim Gas Automotive wheel system Composite material

Lots of runner overhang in the collectors. Had to use a die grinder and flap sander to remove the surplus tubing. The primary collectors will still have overhang in the manifold but there's no way of gaining access with cutting them apart
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Automotive tire Gas Human leg Metal Auto part

First attempt at wrapping these headers. The runners are too close to be able to wrap them properly. Second attempt was better. This wrap is evil to handle - use gloves. I learned the hard way :(
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive design

Headers were 100% compatible with the exhaust from the catalytic converter back. Flex join failed within 3 months of driving. Couldn't expect too much from headers that cost $63 USD. Replaced the flex with a 6" heavy duty flex. Good gains in torque. Tiburon cam improved power delivery from about 3,700 rpm upwards. In this pic I'm using a nasty corrugated intake hose kit on the OEM air box
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Speedometer Vehicle Car Tachometer Gauge

Tiburon steering wheel with a DIY stitched cover that hasn't held up well. Added the red chrome strip - it really makes the contours stand out
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Vehicle Auto part

Needs revision work. Not happy with the angle entering the air box. Works well, has a nice meaty intake note. No good for water sports - intake is visible from the front of the car below the bumper
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Vehicle Gas

Added hex socket fasteners and anodised collets to pretty up the engine bay a little more. Yoshimura competition emblem for fun 😁
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Vehicle registration plate Car Vehicle Hood Grille

The offending pedestrian masher bar. Took this pic to compare new T10 arcylic sealed LED parking light (left) to the old T10 LED I was previously using. Vast difference in performance (no, that's not my actual license plate lol) There's a pair of air splitters discreetly mounted on either side of the front bumper. Good for 0.3 HP with a tail wind (y)
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exhaust Motor vehicle

Recycled muffler delete from Tiburon. Rear hanger is postioned differently (Tiburon has a shorter body from the rear subframe - I cut a hanger off the dead wagon muffler and used a second muffler rubber hanger to support it) $14 AUD from U-pull-it yard
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, the wagon is now hanging by a thread. After some serious driving to a clients' property out in the middle of nowhere, it decided that it was heading to catastrophic failure mode. Front suspension is knocking, both front driveshafts are fragged, gearbox is making a whining sound continuously and, as an added bonus, the Brembo composite pads I've been using finally disintegrated after a few rounds of 'Gran Turismo - farm edition'. The shrieking noise the front left minimum wear indicator made was unbearable and I had to endure it for 90 minutes of driving home. So I've done a field trip to my local UPI yard and collected the following - 2 x driveshafts with intact boots (these are going to be disassembled and repacked with LMM grease and new boots), what appears to be a recently rebuilt 5 speed from a RD1 coupe (the casing has been bead blasted, bolts marked with paint pen and the casing numbered + blue RTV silicon on the mating surfaces), a replacement intake flex pipe to the throttle body (the bouncing of the airbox from driving offroad caused it to split...) and a front set of barely bedded in front pads (yes it's sketchy to use second hand pads but these pads had clean backing plates and no grooves from being driven on - made me wonder why the wagon I took them off was junked...)

New acquisitions:

  • CV banding tool (I am done paying someone to rebuild and install shafts)
  • a tube of black 221 Sikaflex polyurethane (my engine mounts feel so mushy that they are probably torn so I'm sealing them up and turning them into semi-solid mounts)
  • cheap pressure washer (my K2 Karcher bit it hard - was one of the poorest value purchases I've made, really overrated and didn't hold up any longer than the el cheapo pressure washers)
  • bottle of full synthetic gearbox oil for the coupe donor transmission

So over the Xmas break I'm rebuilding shafts, ripping the gearbox out and hunting down the suspension knock culprit, DIY'ing engine/trans mounts, figuring out where to put my oil catch can and installing it, improvements to the CAI I built and adding a support to prevent the airbox from jiggling around - and the less than envious task of gearbox in/gearbox out.

*possible side project - under car aero from aluminium composite panelling. I've long had the feeling the air turbulence under the wagon is hindering it at highway speeds and I think the wagon is reaching it's potential limits without changing engine management, full custom exhaust and intake/porting/throttle body upgrades.
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Costs so far -
  • used drive shafts $124 AUD from J2 Lantra Sportswagon ($62 AUD x 2)
  • used 5 speed manual transmission $124 AUD from RD1 coupe
  • used intake flex pipe $14 AUD from J2 Lantra Sportswagon (throttle body to factory air box)
  • used front brake pads full set $24 AUD from J2 Lantra Sportswagon (pads are marked DB1167 SLP)
  • new CV boot kits inner and outer $49 AUD (Kelpro CV boot kit CIB 502 x 2/CIB 504 x 2)
  • CV banding tool $41 AUD
  • 221 Sikaflex sealant/adhesive $29 AUD
  • full synthetic gearbox oil $59 (Penrite 75w-85)
 

· Super Moderator
2000 model Hyundai Lantra GLS 2.0 (G4GF) factory 5 speed manual. Fully optioned. Most things work...
Joined
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Started tearing the wagon down this afternoon - it's a horror story. Got it up on ramps and got into cleaning the transmission and subframe etc with brake cleaner and oven cleaner. I use a non-caustic alkaline salts based cleaner that won't attack plastic, paint or discolour cast alloy metal. Use the wrong stuff and it'll ruin your car. One can is usually enough to do a complete engine engine bay unless something has gone catastrophically wrong or the car you're cleaning has had the worst life. I hate working on filthy engines - end of story.

Removed the air box and duct to improve access to the top and rear of the transmission - air box was full of seeds and grass from the Gran Turismo - farm edition fiasco. No biggie. Pleasant surprise was lack of oil blowby in the throttle body. Then I drained the gearbox oil. Maybe 2 cups of oil in it? Bad transfer case seal is to blame. Black - and thick. Riposa In Pace my 5 speed friend. Then removal of forward gearbox mount. Had to pull the cooling fans but this is a 5 minute job. And then I noticed it. Mount bolts were loose. For ages I've had a mystery grinding noise whenever I hit a certain bump or put it in 1st or reverse. I put it down to dead bushes but the wear inside the mount bracket told a different story. If it wasn't for me needing to now pull the drivetrain apart I would probably had not found the culprit.

So first job is modding the forward gearbox mounting bush. Made a backing puck out of form ply and laid a layer of baking wax paper over it in the vain hope the 221 Sikaflex won't stick to it. Laid the mount down on the puck and wax paper on a bench. I used a method of injecting the 221 into the base of the mount and began to build it up til it was almost completely filled, the got a disposable spoon and coated it with dishwashing detergent to help prevent it from sticking while I smoothed it out. Going to take a few days to completely cure. Trying to fill the mount cavity in layers will end up with air pockets everywhere. There's a damper insert that goes in the front mount and I discarded it in order to improve the rigidity.
 
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