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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a lot of reading on the subject but still have questions.

First, does the Tiburon SS require any modification to fit and if so what needs to be done and how?

Also will I need to do adjust the cables afterwards and how do I set them up properly?

Any help on the subject is appreciated.
 

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oops... wrong year car... :ermm:

[Edited by 03-Accent-03 on Feb 4, 2006 6:48 PM]
 

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As far as i know the b&m short shifter part #45115 should fit with little to no moddifying , i ordered one for my accent thursday and get it tuesday so hopefully it will be easy to install. Evo fusion sells it for the accent for i think $130
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Like I said I've done my research so I know which ones fit, I just need to know about the install itself. Lemme know how it goes for you. I'm thinking about getting the Megan Racing short shifter that FlyRyde sells, it seems a little shorter than the B&M and has a really nice knob that goes with it. Here's a link to it http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=319

[Edited by da_moose on Feb 4, 2006 7:27 PM]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know I've already got a metal shift knob, personally I like them.

[Edited by da_moose on Feb 5, 2006 7:54 PM]
 

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da_moose

I bought the megan short shifter for my X3. be prepared the cut and grind my man. it bolts on, the problem is it won't work unless you cut the base plate that the adapter sits in. then its a bit of a pain to set it up properly so its not too tight or loose. I had to modify both the base plate and the adapter it comes with to make it work properly. Also, they sell that shifter on E-bay for less than what Megan is selling it. I got mine for 49.90 shipped and it came very fast. Other than that, It works great. The stock shifter was really annoying with how long the throws were. Now they are significantly shorter. the car is much more enjoyable to drive. Its worth the hassle for the price you pay.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^^^ Thanks for the information, the one on ebay is the one I was going to get. I'm assuming by adapter you are referring to the block that the actual shift arm mounts to? Is the problem that the adapter is too wide and thus hits the side of the base?
 

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Yes its too wide and does not allow the assembly to move at all. you have to cut the whole back side of the base that holds the block. The center part is what hits the block, and the sides don't allow movement even after thats cut out if you don't grind it down very well. Once everything is swinging, the next issue is with the plastic inserts used to center the bolt that holds the block to the base. its a super tight fit and needs adjustment. you also can't tighten the nut on all the way or else the action will be super stiff, and it will take a lot of effort to go through the gears. Loosen the nut little by little until your satisfied with the action, while still making sure the nut is secure enough that it won't back itself out. once you work through all that and get it done, you will be a happy camper with how it works. Another thing to look out for is the way the stock shifter and the megan shifter bow out. When installed, the Megan shifter should bow out in a different direction than the stock shifter. if it looks exactly the same way the stock shifter did, you have it on backwards. you'll see what I mean once you get it. Anyway, the shift knob will have the shift pattern readable to you if you have the stick on right.

[Edited by Mazdero on Feb 10, 2006 12:57 PM]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow thanks for the fast reply. I think I'm gonna order one either today or Monday and see how this goes. Would milling the 3 sides of the block work to solve the problem? I noticed that the B&M is a little smaller so I'm guessing this is causing the problem. I may be able to get access to a mill at school here. You mentioned about the positioning of the arm, does it end up looking in the wrong place compared to stock (ie. does it look like it's in 1'st but its actually in neutral or 2nd)? And how much adjustment needs to be made with the shift cables?
 

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dude, if you have access to a mill your golden. you don't even have to touch the base. once you get the shifter and compare the block to the factory piece, you'll see where you have to mill. its only one side you'd have to mill.

if you put the shifter on correctly, the shifter will sit perfectly center. If you put it on backwards, the shifter will sit forward. the shifter cables do not need any adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I just bought the shifter today off eBay and I figure it will be here probably Wednesday or Thurday so I'll have to see how it goes. I'm definitely going to be making a DIY seeing as there isn't one yet. Thanks for all the help, atleast now I know what to expect when I get in there. BTW how do you find the shifter, is there a big difference? Any complaints?
 

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its way better. I was really disgusted by the stock throw, now its great. The shift knob looks nice too. I don't have any complaints but You'll have to judge for yourself.
 

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I would have sold you this one cheaper, but oh-well
First cut out the side out


Then take your washer and trace a small circle on both sides centered on the bolt hold and machine down the thickness of the plastic washer







My only complaint about this shifter is that there is not stops front and back.

Check these threads
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=63452

This thread just has more pics of frankenshifter
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=66487


[Edited by XericRally on Feb 12, 2006 10:34 PM]
 

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thats what i did right there, minus the counter sinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
XericRally: I saw those threads during my search but I thought you had already sold your shifter. BTW how critical is it to recess the washer and what difference does it make? Also you mentioned about the lack of positve stop, does that only apply because the cables aren't attached or is it noticable when it's actually installed?
 

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The problem is that the shifter is too long to fit between the 2 ends with the washers. So, you can plane/file/sand off about a 1/16 of an inch to get it to fit.(Sorry don't know mm). But then the only surface area touching on each end is that of the plastic washers. Counter sinking the washers makes for a tighter fit. Either will work, but if you have a drill press I would consider taking the time to countersink.

The cables stop the travel, but with the without the stops you can go a little further. It's not a performance issue, it just when slamming the shifter back you go a little beyond where you need to. So, you kinda negate the feeling of short throws.

I did sell a Frankenshifter and I have one in my car, but I still have the other one I made from a Tib shifter bought off ebay. I can't throw away such a good lucking chunk of machined aluminum. Yes, I am fully aware that I got problems.
 
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