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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Turbo (GT28R) and manifold (OBX) bolted together. Oil feed and return lines are on. 440cc Lucas Injectors. Wiring harness "borrowed" from an old hyundai ;)
Still waiting for a kspec decompr. plate , the AEM fic , an ebay I/C piping kit and my jpipe to arrive and I'm turbo again! Pauter and wiseco combo after summertime - no money - :)

Enjoy

Turbo and manifold






Injectors and harness


I/C



So, how much boost should I run and how much hp should I expect. The exhaust will be strictly 2.5" for economical reasons, the I/C piping is 2.25"
So ppl, shoot! Hope you like it.
 

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I think its all crap crap crap and you should just sell it to me for a wooden nickle! J/K, I too hope to be running a little suprise under the hood of my Accent GSi very soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Items are sold to you for $1 :)
 

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Well,

It all depends... How are you going to route the pipes in your I/C? Are you going to keep the 2.5 or upgrade to the 3" with the 3" downpipe? Cats or Cat delete? With the GT28 you can easily hit 250whp at around 10 psi and still keep your ride pretty reliable. Have you thought of adding an extra external oil cooler?

I don't see a wastegate installed... Unless Im' missing something...

Howie~
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm going to route the I/C piping all around as it is a F.I/C
The wastegate is off the turbo needs some custom bracket which I'm working on. The 2.5" stays for now till the pauter/wiseco combo comes. Look, if I can make 250whp reliable without any mods to the internals except the decompr. plate, then I'll leave it alone but I doubt that it can hold this kind of power...
Oil cooler is in the plans for later on..
 

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you do have the beta tranny right??..if not..you'll be doing roasty one wheel burnout's all the time.

i also recommend you go to 16's, heavy ass 17 inch wheels and turbo power are recipe's for snapped axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hehe, nope I don't have the beta tranny and I can't swap to 16" because my brakes can only fit the 17s"!!!
 

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some suggestions:

- i have a 3" exhaust (with a big resonator and a big muffler) and it's pretty loud. it's ok when driving by myself, but if you drive regularly with a passenger/wife/girlfriend i'd suggest a 2.5" exhaust. if i was starting over, i'd instal a 2.5" exhaust as the best compromise of performance and practicality.

- years ago, i remember Autobot complaining about bad torque steer with his beta swap accent. so i installed a phantom grip lsd, and never had any torque steer, or one wheel burn outs, even at 250 whp. maybe quaffe is better, but i've been happy with the phantom grip.

edit: i also remember reading on hyundaiaftermarket that the phantom grip is an insert into the (weak) OEM hyundai differential, but the quaffe is a whole new (strong) aftermarket differential. so if the phantom grip grenades, the problem is the weak OEM differential, not the phantom grip insert.
 

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Well...

I had a 3" exhaust on my DSM and so do alot of the guys here... the 3" is great and quiet as long as you remember to install the silencer. It'll rumble low and it'll give you great mid to high end power but strip you a little of your low end torque, but that happens with turbos. The 3" downpipe and full 3" exhaust will let you easily tune in 30hp depending on your setup.

About the I/C piping, are you going to short route or long route the piping? I didn't mean to sound like a F/I noob. Short route piping is nice, and the turbo lag isnt as noticable... buuuuutttt, you'll have to drive like a pansy around places w/potholes and speed bumps, because you can bend your piping pretty bad if you hit them. It also doesn't look as nice as the long route piping...

What kind of wastegate are you installing? It's crazy how many people have turbo problems just because of their wastegate.

Howie~
 

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I'm going to route the I/C piping all around as it is a F.I/C
The wastegate is off the turbo needs some custom bracket which I'm working on. The 2.5" stays for now till the pauter/wiseco combo comes. Look, if I can make 250whp reliable without any mods to the internals except the decompr. plate, then I'll leave it alone but I doubt that it can hold this kind of power...
Oil cooler is in the plans for later on..
Japakos, your running the beta engine it can well handle 250whp with no problem even with out the useless decompression plate...stock you can get the 250 whp prolly off 10 psi maybe less with stock internals. Add the decomp gasket and you'll be making less hp off the same psi...I say go for 10psi tunned and see what you get. Then add the internals later. Once you have strength to the internals you can easily push i to 15 or more psi and you wont need to bother with that gasket. The gasket is good if you wanna be able to hit higher psi numbers reliably with stock innards, but with fully built internals you can still hit 15-20 psi no prob off stock comp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The plugs came off a hyundai atos '00.
As for the stupid decomp. plate, I must insist on this because here we have a really hot summer and I don't want any kind of detonation which I may have. I must say though that my 1.5 sohc when it was turbo , I was using stock internals and I was ripping it all day long with a stupid maf tune and nothing for timing. It went well for 9 months as it eventually broke due to lack of tuning via the emanage. (all this with 11psi of boost) Now we're talking about FIC which can tune timing and fuel directly via the injectors.... I don't know ppl I'm still afraid of the summer and don't want to blow my engine up.
 

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na with the decompression plate your car should run fine at 15-17 psi just run it rich and pull the timming a bit for those hot summers we had a dsm and we ran it at 20 psi 270 hp on 91 octane with 100+ degree weather out here we just ran it rich. its all about tunning when it comes to higher HP you could have a engine that could hold 3 gazillion hp and blow it up at 100hp if its tuned wrong
 
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