Red is correct - but the welding you should not do yourself, rather take your sump to a shop to get done - it is a very small channel that needs to be welded on and the shop will not even charge you as it will take about 30 seconds flat to weld on.
Regardng the con-rod and pins - Hyundai used the most stupid design with this setup.... anyhow most engineering shops will have access to presses - and once the gudgeon pins are out the rods - you will not have to press them back in, because we supply you with new floating gudgeon pins (as this engine should have been designed to use in the first place.
Red - the keys needed to remove the head bolts are an 8mm and a 10mm - there are only 2 10mm head bolts which are situated at the back of the engine (on the coil side of the head)
Regarding the flywheel - if this has no high spots and is not damaged, you wil NOT need to re-surface it. What you simply need to do is take a 380 grade of sandpaper and sand down the flywheel surface. Once again all the procedures are included in the instructions.
Red has a point about previous experience with engines, but I will say that the instructions included point out all the potential problem areas and we warn you against doing incorrect procedures with the entire assembly process.
Other tools that you will definitely need are:-
Pliers, Side cutters, Insulation tape, Soldering Iron, Solder (Resin not Acid based - the common wire used to solder electronic circuit boards) Wire strippers, crimping tool to crimp a few lugs and spades. (electronic connectors)
It is not a necessity for yuo to have these next few tools, but if you do - you will certainly learn alot about your engine and will be able to measure your bore, pistons, and rings etc :-
Vernier
Bore guage
Height guage
Well thats about it, I think I have covered most of the tools required including Red's contribution - thank Red.
<hr width=60% noshade size=1 align=left>Tiburon Turbo 350KW and 700NM AKA Black Monster
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