[Jason382]

Big Question for everyone...
I haven' t run a test, but why in the heck all of the sudden, my iddle stays at 1500 RPM with the TPS and once I disconnected it goes down to 800 RPM. Is that a sign of a bad TPS, or is some else... I am running right now w/o the TPS and its running just fine... needing a little advise on this matter...:ermm:

 

[omgbossis21]

Im suprised the car is running at all with the tps disconnected! Generally you can wiggle the tps connector and if the idle changes thats the source of your problems. You should try to remove it and clean it with electrical cleaner real well. I've found that to solve tps problems 99% of the time. If its just an idle problem its either that or probably the idle speed actuator (check for hose leaks) and clean it with brake cleaner through each of its ports (and electrical cleaner on the connector). I suspect the car would only run until it throws a code for it (if it did run at all but im guessing it did....) hope this helps!

 

[Jason382]

I will thanks... It's kinda strange how does it work like that... i thought the same...

 

[Jason382]

I just did the cleaning on the Actuator, TPS, etc and the problem persists, i believe is the TPS... cause... I connect the TPS and it takes me to 1500 RPM and disconect it and brings me down to 800 RPM... its very rare this situation, but thats how it does... any other suggestions????

 

[omgbossis21]

What is your setup? You have bigger fuel injectors? Stock ecu? Any form of tuning?

 

[Jason382]

Well I am running;
T3 TO4 turbo
310 cc injectors
SAFC II
10:1 FMU
Manual Boost controller
B&M Fuel Reg- set at 50 psi
Turbonetics 38mm Wastegate
Blitzz BOV
Intecooler
I have the MAF sensor on the pipe before the BOV
Elantra TB
Catch can, etc
All these on a SOHC w/ scoupe turbo pistons... running 15 psi, looking for 400 or 440cc injectors to run 20 psi, also looking for forged piston to use the PAUTER con-rods i have on hand... hope this helps... cause that TPS crap got me crazy...

 

[omgbossis21]

Is your boost recirc. or venting to the atmosphere? Is the safc tuned and/or have you tried messing with the settings at idle? Have you checked and doubled checked for vacuum/boost leaks? I would build a pressure tester for your intake system (cheap and easy and you can be sure of no leaks). By MAF sensor on the pipe before the bov how do you mean? It goes TB-BOV-MAF? Generally the MAF sensor is put on the intake side of the turbo system....

 

[Jason382]

I had it recirc., but i changed it to atmosp... i mean intercooler, MAF and then BOV...

 

[omgbossis21]

Did you have this problem before you changed to bov over to atmosphere venting? Perhaps its leaking at idle? Also everyone puts the maf on the intake side of the turbo... air filter-maf-turbo-intercooler-bov-TB

 

[Jason382]

With the bov venting out nope... i had it before like that from the turbo inlet, it was working well, but with some stalling... now responds better, no stalling... someone told me that i might have a leak at the TB butter fly, probably slightly bent, allowing air to go in...

 

[omgbossis21]

If the car was stalling before when you had it on the intake side you probably had it to close to the turbo. Same thing happened to me when i first put the setup togother and it would stall out.... Moved it further away from the turbo and no more problems ;-) You can adjust the screw on the throttle body and close it some more. Did you bend the butterfly valve? I would try to adjust that screw first.... So the problem didnt start when you began to vent the bov in the atmosphere? You really should build a pressure tester for your intake system. I have 2.75inch tubing so i used a 2.5inch pvc cap and drilled a hole in it. In the hole I installed a tire valve (jb welded it in as well). I just clamp that on the intake side of the turbo have a friend watch my boost gauge and pressure the system while the car is off. If you have a leak you will hear it...

 

[Jason382]

i will try that, thanks...