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Maniflod
Turbo
Intercooler (optional)
Fuel pump
Injectors
BOV
Charge Piping
Tubro Timmer

...and time, money, and patence. <Thoose have stopped my turbo project so far. I have a t25, and a ssautocrap manifold. but thats it so far...

Some turbo experts will come on and make me look stupid, but thats all i can think of now..
 

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Originally posted by j0hnh0lmes
[body]
I have a '04 elantra gls. what would I need to turbo charge it?
[/body]
maybe you should actually read a book called "maximum boost" and find out some of the basic answers first. if youre coming here and asking what you need to turbo your car, you obviously have close to zero know-how of what youre doing, therefore, you should not attempt this.
 

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Manifold:
Turbo: Many types out there most common are the T25, T3, T3 super 60, IHI
Watercooled for longer life
Oil is a must, turbos need oil!
Intercooler: Not a must but is very nice to cool the air before the TB to help
prevent detonation. Three types:TMIC (Top mounted) FMIC (front mounted) SMIC (side mounted)
Piping: This is a must can’t have a turbo without pipes. You need pipes from turbo to intercooler (if having one), intercooler to TB and then intake pipe
-from turbo to intercooler usually can’t go bigger then 2”
-intercooler to TB, nice to be 2.5” doesn’t have to be
-intake would be best to be around 2.5-3”
Wastegate: Two types
-External: this kind goes before the turbo and monitors the flow and dumps the exhaust via it’s own pipe to the exhaust
-Internal: attaches to the turbo and monitors the flow and releases by the flap on the turbo, internals sometimes may have more problems with boostcreep due to small exhaust pipes or bad wastegates.
BOV: It is not a must but will help in the life of the turbo and spool up times. So far we have to recirculate them until we master the art of blow-through MAF. Any type will work but it seems like the old Eclipse BOV works the best
Oil lines: The oil supply should be around ¼” and could be steel braided or high temp. rubber. The oil drain must be no smaller then 5/8” and needs to be high temp. For the return some tap the pan with others Eric tap in the block.
MAF: I think a tibby maf might work
Injectors: Need new ones since the stock ones aren’t good for the high HP, 38# are good but 42# are better. There's an exact formula to figure out which ones you need, and I can get into that if you are really interested
Gauges: A must is a boost gauge…other nice gauges are EGT and A/F ratio gauge
O2 housing: ....If you don't want a CEL
Slim Fan: This is probably need for the Elantra, but I don't know for sure until I tackle this project myself
Misc. Parts: Piping connectors, coolant and vacuum T’s, air filter, bolts, various size clamps, brass fittings
Tuning: Superchip SCT has worked wonders on many other cars...


One of the surest ways to get more power out of an engine is to increase the amount of air and fuel that it can burn. One way to do this is to add cylinders or make the current cylinders bigger. Sometimes these changes may not be feasible -- a turbo can be a simpler, more compact way to add power, especially for an aftermarket accessory.

Turbochargers allow an engine to burn more fuel and air by packing more into the existing cylinders. The typical boost provided by a turbocharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50 percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50 percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, so you might get a 30- to 40-percent improvement instead.
One cause of the inefficiency comes from the fact that the power to spin the turbine is not free. Having a turbine in the exhaust flow increases the restriction in the exhaust. This means that on the exhaust stroke, the engine has to push against a higher back-pressure. This subtracts a little bit of power from the cylinders that are firing at the same time.

Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging. This can significantly improve the power-to-weight ratio for the engine.
In order to achieve this boost, the turbocharger uses the exhaust flow from the engine to spin a turbine, which in turn spins an air pump. The turbine in the turbocharger spins at speeds of up to 150,000 rotations per minute (rpm) -- that's about 30 times faster than most car engines can go. And since it is hooked up to the exhaust, the temperatures in the turbine are also very high.

How It Works
The turbocharger is bolted to the exhaust manifold of the engine. The exhaust from the cylinders spins the turbine, which works like a gas turbine engine. The turbine is connected by a shaft to the compressor, which is located between the air filter and the intake manifold. The compressor pressurizes the air going into the pistons.
The exhaust from the cylinders passes through the turbine blades, causing the turbine to spin. The more exhaust that goes through the blades, the faster they spin on the other end of the shaft that the turbine is attached to, the compressor pumps air into the cylinders. The compressor is a type of centrifugal pump -- it draws air in at the center of its blades and flings it outward as it spins.
In order to handle speeds of up to 150,000 rpm, the turbine shaft has to be supported very carefully. Most bearings would explode at speeds like this, so most turbochargers use a fluid bearing. This type of bearing supports the shaft on a thin layer of oil that is constantly pumped around the shaft. This serves two purposes: It cools the shaft and some of the other turbocharger parts, and it allows the shaft to spin without much friction.
There are many tradeoffs involved in designing a turbocharger for an engine. In the next section, we'll look at some of these compromises and see how they affect performance.
Turbo Lag (aka turbo threshold)
One of the main problems with turbochargers is that they do not provide an immediate power boost when you step on the gas. It takes a second for the turbine to get up to speed before boost is produced. This results in a feeling of lag when you step on the gas, and then the car lunges ahead when the turbo gets moving.
One way to decrease turbo lag is to reduce the inertia of the rotating parts, mainly by reducing their weight. This allows the turbine and compressor to accelerate quickly, and start providing boost earlier.

Small vs. Large Turbocharger
One sure way to reduce the inertia of the turbine and compressor is to make the turbocharger smaller. A small turbocharger will provide boost more quickly and at lower engine speeds, but may not be able to provide much boost at higher engine speeds when a really large volume of air is going into the engine. It is also in danger of spinning too quickly at higher engine speeds, when lots of exhaust is passing through the turbine.
A large turbocharger can provide lots of boost at high engine speeds, but may have bad turbo lag because of how long it takes to accelerate its heavier turbine and compressor.
In the next section, we'll take a look at some of the tricks used to overcome these challenges.

Too Much Boost
With air being pumped into the cylinders under pressure by the turbocharger, and then being further compressed by the piston, there is more danger of knock. Knocking happens because as you compress air, the temperature of the air increases. The temperature may increase enough to ignite the fuel before the spark plug fires. Cars with turbochargers often need to run on higher octane fuel to avoid knock. If the boost pressure is really high, the compression ratio of the engine may have to be reduced to avoid knocking
 

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wow... So much information! Gotta love it! You learn something new on Hyundai Performance everyday. There's your daily dose of Turbo 101.
 
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