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Been running with the stock ecu for along time here. Always used the emange though, to be honest it was a pita at first but once i removed the first o2 sensor from the exhaust and plugged in the wideband tuning became easy and it wasnt "tuning out" my tune anymore.
 

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Yeah, it can be done... However, I use a SAFC2.
 

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Your both cheating :D It is much easier IMO to run boost on a stock ecm if you have a return line you can attach a RRFPR on.
I currently run my spare engine, which has a modified stock exhaust manifold turbo setup; meaning I used a factory exhaust manifold and modified it for a turbo, on a stock HD ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hang on a sec.

so cclngthr you have an MC accnet, with a turbo conversion running on a stock ECU ?
How ? what's the set-up ? boost levels

just the hardware, (turbo etc) and off you drive ?

more info please !!
 

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Also,

CAN = Controller Area Network

The newer cars don't have the massive wiring harnesses running everything back to the main ecm. They have small "computers" all over the car to control things such as lights, etc. So instead of running 10134140134 wires to control the lights on the back of the car just a few are ran to a small controller. Then the wires that actually turn the lights on run from that board. I am sure this is going to change how most piggy backs, etc connect to the ecm. Not to mention the HD elantra ecm can get pissy if you add intake/exhaust. Much less adding boost.
 

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what are you using to control fuel on that CAN setup?
I'm calculating how much fuel is needed on the stock N/A setup and when I added the turbo, I calculated how much fuel I had to add by increasing the injector flow and fuel pump pressure. Currently, on my HD Elantra spare engine (the boosted motor is a custom built engine) has 2.4 Sonata injectors, stock fuel pump and stock modified exhaust manifold.

The engine is a 2 liter beta motor with 9.5:1 forged pistons, forged rods, a 2003 Mitsubishi EVO 2.0 crank and stock HD head, ecu and intake manifold.

I got around the pissy ecu by doing the math regarding fuel/air ratio before I started.

hang on a sec.

so cclngthr you have an MC accnet, with a turbo conversion running on a stock ECU ?
How ? what's the set-up ? boost levels

just the hardware, (turbo etc) and off you drive ?

more info please !!
The engine is a beta 2 that I built for my 2007 Elantra. I'm using the stock 2007 head (an extra one) and a 2005 XD2 exhaust manifold. ECU is stock HD Elantra. No ECU adaptables such as fuel tuners are being used. Boost pressure now is at 5 psi. Also, you need an intercooler to prevent detonation, as I found that out last night.

I did a full pull on the engine dyno and got 220 on the dyno. I still need to add more fuel and when I get the walbro pump, I think that will be ready to install in the car.
 

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I wanna know more about that emanage setup omgbossis21 is running...what values you using...I got absolutly nowhere with my emanage...now im considering using that RRFPR and fuel return line unless somone can help with the damn emanage...
 

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cool ^^^

what size turbo ? what about things like wastegates ? is it an external or internal ?
how efficant ?

pics ??

i'm keen to see more of it
Right now it is an internal wastegated small sized turbo. I don't want to get into a large turbo because the lag that is associated with them and the efficiency of the larger turbo vs the smaller one. Smaller turbos are more efficient for street useage.

This is a mockup. It will not be the final product. I'm only testing the limits of the stock ECU and what I can do with a streetable engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
^ cool

have you noticed any problems with your set-up ?
detonation, spitting at high revs or full load ? lean-outs ?? can you safely take it to red line ?

I'm amazed simply because that all the "teachings" that i have had suggest it's dangerous to turbo without having the ECU played with.

again, letme get this straight.
motor - manifold - small turbo like GT15-GT20 - intercooler ??
is that it ? no larger injectors, no ignition retard, high octane fuel ??

what happens when you begin to have issues ? then do you need to tune the fuel air ?




for everyone else ?

How does anyone have a turbo system run properly (reliably) with stock or simple air/fuel add-ons ? what do you guys use ?
 

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^ cool

have you noticed any problems with your set-up ?
detonation, spitting at high revs or full load ? lean-outs ?? can you safely take it to red line ?

I'm amazed simply because that all the "teachings" that i have had suggest it's dangerous to turbo without having the ECU played with.

again, letme get this straight.
motor - manifold - small turbo like GT15-GT20 - intercooler ??
is that it ? no larger injectors, no ignition retard, high octane fuel ??

what happens when you begin to have issues ? then do you need to tune the fuel air ?




for everyone else ?

How does anyone have a turbo system run properly (reliably) with stock or simple air/fuel add-ons ? what do you guys use ?

I have a stock XD 2005 manifold with a T3 Garrett turbo. The fuel injectors are from the 2004 EF Sonata 2.4 engine (these are 290cc). Currently I have a stock fuel pump, but at wot, my a/f is at 13.6, which is too high. I want to get the a/f down to 12. This can be done by using a higher volume fuel pump. Without an intercooler, it detonates above 5,000 rpm. Reason being is the air temp is above 200 degrees.

With a walbro 255 pump, the engine would idle roughly because it would be overly rich. The 190 walbro should keep the fuel ratio within spec and still idle nicely.

I am currently running 91 octane fuel in it. I can take it to redline with the intercooler, but I could not without the intercooler.

Keep in mind though I custom built the motor. As I said, the CR is 9.5:1 with forged rods and pistons. The crank is a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo crank. The head is stock HD now, but that is going to change. I'm going to custom grind a set of cams for it.
 

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I have a stock XD 2005 manifold with a T3 Garrett turbo. The fuel injectors are from the 2004 EF Sonata 2.4 engine (these are 290cc). Currently I have a stock fuel pump, but at wot, my a/f is at 13.6, which is too high. I want to get the a/f down to 12. This can be done by using a higher volume fuel pump. Without an intercooler, it detonates above 5,000 rpm. Reason being is the air temp is above 200 degrees.

With a walbro 255 pump, the engine would idle roughly because it would be overly rich. The 190 walbro should keep the fuel ratio within spec and still idle nicely.

I am currently running 91 octane fuel in it. I can take it to redline with the intercooler, but I could not without the intercooler.

Keep in mind though I custom built the motor. As I said, the CR is 9.5:1 with forged rods and pistons. The crank is a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo crank. The head is stock HD now, but that is going to change. I'm going to custom grind a set of cams for it.
How rich do you run with the 290cc injectors cruising? also IMO dont waste your time with fuel pumps just yet...its TOO much trouble and its just going to complicate things for you. Ive been there already and its a waste. If your not planning to run higher than 12psi dont bother. get an SAFCII or neo and get bigger injectors to lean it out. or you can keep the 290cc injectors and use the afc to richen it up so you will be able to run better.
 

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How rich do you run with the 290cc injectors cruising? also IMO dont waste your time with fuel pumps just yet...its TOO much trouble and its just going to complicate things for you. Ive been there already and its a waste. If your not planning to run higher than 12psi dont bother. get an SAFCII or neo and get bigger injectors to lean it out. or you can keep the 290cc injectors and use the afc to richen it up so you will be able to run better.
The engine is not in the car. It is on the engine stand that is part of the dyno machine that I'm testing it on. Keep in mind I'm running a 2007 HD Elantra ecu that is CAN ready and is real pissy when you miscalculate things and I lowered the CR to 9.5:1 by rebuilding the engine right. I have not pulled the engine or ecu out of the car. These are spares I have.

Under a WOT condition, the a/f ratio is 13.6. That is a bit lean for that condition. Without a intercooler, the engine pings above 5,000 rpm. With the stock injectors, it ran about 18 a/f at wot. With the 290 injectors, it would idle roughly before I put the turbo on, but it idles fine now since the turbo is installed. I still need to add fuel, and the fuel pump will do that for me. I do not want to use a SAFC or piggyback yet because the testing on the stock ecu is not done, plus the ecu is completely different than what is used on the older cars. My ECU controls a lot more than the engine and transmission. It monitors and controls everything electrical via CAN line/K line computer networking. Additionally, the mapping is narrower than on the older cars for emissions. when you add air, instead of the ECU compensating by adding fuel, it now sets a code. You have to add fuel and get it right to keep the ecu happy.
 
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