Why would it be required to be in the car? You can run an engine out of the car when you have the proper equipment. I have access to that kind of tool.so it's not in your car ??
I used a 2003 Evo crank. Should redo the rod bearings. Might have to reface them.I'm more interested in the evo crank. Will the crank fit in unmodified into beta 1 and beta 2 motors? If so what year evo does this apply?
Yep.so what your saying is that a 2003 evo turbo manifold will bolt up to a beta 1 and beta 2 and line up without modifications? interesting, i might have to look into that, thats a whole can of worms for me
The 2003 Evo has the 2 liter motor. The Eclipse 2 liter motor also has the same motor. Earlier models likely will not work as easy because the bolt pattern is slightly different. I do know the 2003 exhaust manifold does bolt up to the beta 2.So basically since the '03 Evo is the same through Evo's VIII-IX we can use any stock or aftermarket crank or turbo exhaust manifold for them? And did you say the intake manifold would also fit or were you refering to the exhaust manifold.
This does open a lot of options for all of beta motors if it can be done as you said with out modifications.
For one thing, you have injectors that are too large and likely a fuel pump that can't pump enough LPH to push enough fuel through a smaller injector that can work with the ECU. What you have is a setup where the ECU is at default all the time.I should of been a bit more specific. I removed the o2 sensors to stop fighting the ecu from "re-tuning" my tune, now it holds it. I use the rising rate fuel pressure regulator so the car can idle with the large injectors. Without it I would of never got anywhere tuning this car b/c it would of just flooded constantly.
I am constantly monitoring the air/fuel ratio when I decide to change things. With the Walbro 190, my engine (on the engine dyno) runs fine and power is where it should be. With the stock pump, it was running slightly lean with the Sonata injectors, but with the stock HD injectors on the stock pump, it threw lean codes very quickly. I am going to let the engine run for a couple days to let the ECU do its thing to see where the A/F ratio ends up at. Its calculations are based on the numbers from the o2 sensors and will try to compensate a little if the ratio is off. If it can't, it will throw a code. The HD ecu is not programmed to adapt as far as the older cars, and when you decide to add air, you also must add the right amount of fuel.You may also run into the larger fuel pump over running the stock fuel pressure regulator. The beta 2 injectors are smaller than the beta one injectors i remember reading that. Tuning off boost will always be hardest part trying to get all that extra fuel out, with the small injector change you should be alright.
The issue is, with the modern car, the ecu controls more than the engine. I have the entire electrical system to contend with, which you young guys don't realize. You assume the computer only controls the engine. It no longer does that now. The ECU controls the lighting, power windows, electric steering, ABS, SRS system, tells the radio to adjust the volume based on vehicle speed, and monitors the HVAC system. Instead of having a 12 volt circuit running from a power source to a switch, then to a devise, all your lighting, power windows, heating/cooling control, rear defrost etc. are run by a body control module, which is a mini computer controlled by the ecu. Rather than the switch sending power directly to a devise, a low voltage signal (in this case, a 5 volt circuit) is run from another module in the car (lets say a window switch) via a 2 wire circuit. Another signal is sent through the same 2 wires telling the module to raise/lower the door window. The wiring is simpler and less wiring is used, but you have to know about computer networking in order to figure it out.I just install the aem fic. This thing it's the only solution to our ecus. It adds/removes fuel directly to the injectors without any problems at all! and retards timing! Go for it you'll love it. On thursday you'll enjoy my gt28r turbo beta1 /w fic....
Not so with a stand alone. The stock ECU controls the power steering (which is electric), ABS, airbag system, body control module (which the entire interior/exterior lighting and power windows, locks, alarm, and HVAC are connected to) and transmission. If you remove the ecu, you disable everything in the car that the ECU is controlling. Essentially, the entire electrical system is monitored by the ECU. On your car, a stand alone is possible because the electrical system is independent of the ECU. On my 2007 Elantra, the electrical system runs through the ECU through a CAN (controller area network) networking system which all other modules are networked into the ECU. I can get codes for a short in the tail light circuit as well as a problem with the power steering.Actually cclngthr you can run a piggy back or stand alone ECu in your car. You just tap into the electrical components you need and leave in the OEM to control all the other stuff. Just allow the after market to have complete control of the output to the engine.
Example allow both OEM and after market to read crank signal but only allow after market to control injectors and ignition. This allows your stock tachometer to still work and as far as the OEM knows it is outputting to control the motor.
Not so with a stand alone. The stock ECU controls the power steering (which is electric), ABS, airbag system, body control module (which the entire interior/exterior lighting and power windows, locks, alarm, and HVAC are connected to) and transmission. If you remove the ecu, you disable everything in the car that the ECU is controlling. Essentially, the entire electrical system is monitored by the ECU. On your car, a stand alone is possible because the electrical system is independent of the ECU. On my 2007 Elantra, the electrical system runs through the ECU through a CAN (controller area network) networking system which all other modules are networked into the ECU. I can get codes for a short in the tail light circuit as well as a problem with the power steering.
The HD ECU is a pissy computer which has a habit of shutting things off if it sees a major problem. It will also get pissy if you mod the car incorrectly without thinking the ECU is running the show. Modding has to take a different approach. I also have a more complex setup where the sensors are different and there are more of them with engine management.
For example, when I forget to turn off an interior light, or inadvertently leave the headlight switch on and the key was off when I turned the lights on (they will go off if the key was removed after the lights were on) the ECU will turn off the lights in 20 minutes. I can have the door open and the interior dome light will automatically turn off in 20 minutes. The ECU will also turn off the trunk release switch and power lock switch after arming the alarm. The ECU also monitors the battery voltage and if it goes below 11 volts, it will automatically shut everything off.