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Can anyone tell me if, any kind of Valve job is the answer to getting rid of a valve tap that I have in my 97 Tib. or is there other ways of getting rid of the tipping??
 

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Hey I have a 97 Tibby FX and I had some noise with a ticking sound. Are you sure it's a valve? Mine had a ticking sound, but it wasn't a valve it was a factory problem with a lose pushrod. I brought it in to have the dealer check it out and they put some engine cleaner in cause they thought it was carbon build up. They reved it a couple of times and the rod blew out the side of the block, busted a connecting rod in half put another hole in the bottom of the block and busted the **** out of the starter. I was luckey I bought the extended warrenty cause I got a new motor for free <img src=/images/forums/snitz/finger.gif width=33 height=15 border=0> So my advise to you is to have a mechanic look at it cause it might be the same problem as mine was considering our cars are the same year <img src=/images/forums/snitz/moon.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>


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Racecar- Uh... are you driving a mustang or a tiburon? Tiburons don't have pushrods.

Run motor flush through your engine at every oil change (per the manufactures instructions). It will solve your problem. Your problem is most likely a HLA that is gunked up with oil sludge and not filling properly. The Motor flush will get rid of the build up and allow the HLA's to do their thing.

If 2 or 3 regular oil changes with motor flush doesn't help...then maybe look into a bad HLA or some kind of valve problem.

This fix works on about 75% to 90% of the valve ticking in beta motors.

Oh...if the motor flush solves the problem...run the motor flush with every other oil change from then on, and the problem will never come back.


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Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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I agree with Random!!!
I had the same problem in my 97 Tib and it ended uo being the HLA.Go to your dealer and have it replaced.
REMEMBER THOUGH the dealer will not replace anything unless they hear the ticking noise.The reason for this is so they can hear which of the HLA's are dammaged.Most likely only one HLA's needs replacing.
This ticking noise mostly occurs on cold weather tempatures then goes away when it warms up!!!


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<img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> A little story about this: I was at a solo rally race last fall and after the first run you could hear a very loud tapping. A service rep from the local dealership was there, so I asked him about it. He said it sounded like a clogged oil port. He said is it still under warranty? I said you bet. He then said well take it back out there, I'll bet it clears up after the next run.
Sure enough it did. After all the horror stories I hear about bad dealerships, I guess I can count myself lucky.


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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys I hope the motor flush trick works I'll try it for the next 2 or 3 oil changes. If it doesn't work I'll look into what Thurston and Uniq said <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>
 

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anybody hear ticking noise(not valves) but sounds like....ABS checking from CHRYSLER cars....if you notice any dodge or chrysler cars, when they come to a stop(around 5mph) it will make ticking noise from the wheel when the system checks the ABS....

my car makes sounds like that but in constant motion and i don't have ABS......

it's really weird


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I have a '01 and my had been in storage for a month now and I started it yesterday. There was a tapping sound when it was cold and then it went away after a while. Also, do you guys hear a ticking noise when your motor is running? But the noise is intermittent. It comes and go. I dont know what it is. It sounds like the injectors but I'm not sure.


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The clicking noise coming from your wheels/tires (sounding like ABS checking) is most likely sand or dirt in one of your wheel bearings. I've replaced three wheel bearings now because living out here in New Mexico gets all that crappy "sand dust" into EVERYTHING and wheel bearings are no exception.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/mad.gif width=16 height=16 border=0> Bytches are expensive too, I think I paid $80 for the bearing from St. Charles Auto and then ended up giving another $50 and a case of Bud Ice to Dan the Man (my friendly Hyundai tech at the dealership) because it's such a pain to install. He turned my rotors for me too though, so I got a good deal <img src=/images/forums/snitz/wink.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

Bad bearings usually tick kinda like a bicycle wheel or something; you can REALLY hear it if you're driving along a retaining wall on a highway or something and have the windows rolled down.

As for all the misc ticking under the hood, there are several possibilities...

First is the HLA's that were described earlier. These are the ONLY component that you could consider a "lifter" in the BETA engines. There are no rollers or lifters really, the valvetrain is essentially a "direct activation" setup. The cam lobe presses against the HLA, and the HLA sits right on top of the valve stem. These HLA's tick loudly when they're cold, when oil pressure is low, or when they're gummed up full of oil varnish.

The other possibility is your fuel injectors ticking. They will get louder when they're cold, they will also tick VERY loud if they're dirty or stuck open. I've actually had an injector stick open on me and it sounded almost like a busted HLA because it was so loud. The fix was to take it down the street at about 8,000,000 RPM's <img src=/images/forums/snitz/smile.gif width=15 height=15 border=0> (not really that fast, but..) and when I came back it shut up. You can tell you have a stuck injector by watching fuel puddle underneath your exhaust tip while idling<img src=/images/forums/snitz/eek.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

That should cover most of the ticking you hear. If you notice the ticking isn't coming from the TOP of the engine, then you have bigger problems and you likely should stop running the motor.<img src=/images/forums/snitz/tongue.gif width=15 height=15 border=0>

-Red-
 

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Usually if its ABS, the clicking will be heard at the brake modulator , when the valves cycle on start up. Try looking at a CV joint. Does it make a clicking while turning left or right. Do you notice any faint clunk when shifting from park to drive or reverse. Some intication of a bad joint is jack the vehicle up and with it in park turn the hub clockwise then counter and look for any indication of the CV shaft shaft moving in upward or side motion. The boot doesn't have be cracked for a joint to go bad.
As for the mighty oil flush, usually its just a derivative kerosene. The old way of doing so was diesel fuel or kerosene. One quart of that with 4 quarts of oil. The only thing I have to warn you about is that the oil flush will dilute the oil, which will change its ability to hold a oil film under high cylinder pressures and driven for extended time peroids you will begin to wash your bearings. The kerosene trick was used when there were not any detergent oils, because engine from that time peroid were famous for coaking up and plugging oil passages. Another old trick was to put brake fluid in your oil to swell the seals and keep them from leaking, but that isn't advisable anymore either. If you do really have a lifter plugged it may be from a piece of flash or core sand, not fully removed during shake out. Plugged lifters don't happen frequently anymore because of the fact detergent oils, a collapsed lifter would be more of a suspect from failer internally in the lifter.


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try putting in octane boost in and then run use higher octane gas for a while and see if that takes care of the problem


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Octane boost or higher octane fuel will not remove ticking noises from your valves or lifters. It only serves to increase octane rating which could <b>possibly</b> remove pinging -- I say possibly because you would first have to be experiencing pinging.

You will know pinging when you hear it, and it cannot be described making the same noises as a stuck lifter.

-Red-
 
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