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Discussion Starter #1
I've got 2 tibbies and I like making em go fast.

Any tips on launching/shifting spots? I know sometimes "as high an rpm as possible" isn't always the best option. Is that true with the tibby?

I usually launch at between 3-4k rpm (depending on the competition and how much I love my tires that day <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>). I think I shift most gears around 6k rpm (too busy driving to fully look at the tach <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>).

I'm learning the double-clutching/rev matching from another thread (which will really help when I need to drop gears quick and disappear).

Basically just looking for any tips to go faster (other than modding the car.. not an option atm <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>).

Thanks guys

2000 Red Tiburon
1999 Blue Tiburon w/Shark Wing
 

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Not sure on the best shifting spots for the tibby. If anyone has any stock tibby dyno plots or if your tibby is modded and you have dyno plots post them. I personnally try to launch at about 2.7k on my tibby, that may not be the best but you want a good start that doesn't drag the car down and doesn't spin the tires, takes alot of practice to get it right

2001 Tiburon
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Alpine cd player
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The tiburons torque curve is nearly totally flat. You want to shift as LATE as possible to ensure you are as high as possible in the next gear, and to get the most out of the gear you are in.

The rev limiter is 6750, so you should take your tibby to 6500 or a tad higher before shifting. Shifting at 6000 RPM WILL slow you down.

Wheel spin while looking cool to some, also slows you down. The perfect lauch has no wheel SPIN, but it does have wheel SLIP. When the wheel SLIPS, it still maintains traction, but the wheel is spinning slightly faster than the forward motion of the car. Wheel SPIN is when the front tires loose traction, and rotate significantly faster than the forward motion of the car.

A perfect lauch would have no wheel SPIN, but would have wheel SLIP.

Some people like reving to 4000, then slip the the clutch out rather slowly. Others like reving to 2500, then "dumping" the clutch rapidly...or any combination inbetween.

You need to practice and see what works best for you. I personally seem to do best with clutch slip. I can control wheelspin with the clutch AND gas, and give more or less of either to keep the car moving and the wheels from spinning. With a clutch "dump" usually, you will either spin the wheels, or bog the engine.

The moral of the story is practice, practice practice.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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thanks random, I didn't know the tibby had a fairly flat torque curve<img src=icon_smile_clown.gif border=0 align=middle>

2001 Tiburon
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Alpine cd player
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100 Ft/lbs at 2200 RPM, peak of 117 ft lbs at around 4200 RPM. Very flat.
<img src="http://www.teamsr.org/ForumLinkedImages/dyno_runs/RandomSpecialCAI_Dyno_01.jpg" border=0>

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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Hehe...Random, remember when we tried graphing the shifting points? They don't even come close to hitting each other.

Pretty much, just shift before the torque falls off at around 6200.

--------------------------------------------
I drive a slow car.
0 to 60 in 11 seconds (look out!)
 

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good deal, that dynoplot is nice, thanks:)

2001 Tiburon
Black with Blacked out windows
Alpine cd player
More mods to come slowly
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips guys.

Random, I like your explanation of the difference between wheel slip and spin. It sounds similar to what I've been doing, except maybe shifting a bit too soon. I'll have to go practice some more <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

From a more academic standpoint, how does the available horsepower affect acceleration vs the available torque? I know torque (especially low-end) will help a lot on launch. How does the variation in horsepower across the range affect the acceleration?

When I had my Pontiac Sunfire GT it had 150hp and 160ft-lbs of torque. I really noticed in a difference in the launch vs the Tibby's lower torque, but once you get moving the Tibby takes off.


2000 Red Tiburon
1999 Blue Tiburon w/Shark Wing
 

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I am going to save this page in my history, thank you Random, you're the best.
 

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i have a question, it might be a stupid one but o-well. on the dyno results that random posted up how come the max horsepower is only at 116.??, when hyundai says the tib should have 140 horses. just wondering. also would it hurt to get ride of the rev limiter, and if not how about doing so.

mess with the best die like the rest
 

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The 140 HP is at the Engine. The 116.2 is at the wheels. Drive train losses eat up the rest. Also, not ALL motors make 140 HP. Due to manufacturing variances, some make up to 150 HP, some only make 130 HP. From the dyno tests I've done with my particular engine...it seems to be one of the 130 HP ones<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>

If you notice...the HP drops after 6000 RPM, the torque drops after 5200 RPM, so extending the redline out to 10,000 rpm wouldn't gain you anything becuase the torque falls faster than RPM rises, which means the HP will keep going down.

Read these two articles
http://www.datsuns.com/torquehp.htm
http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/hpinfo2.htm



Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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unless of course bigger camshafts were installed and maybe a computer or something, then extending the redline may have an advantage. But for just the stock engine it won't help any

2001 Tiburon
Black with Blacked out windows
Alpine cd player
More mods to come slowly

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I have no idea where I shift my car, after you race enough times you just get a feel for it. I know it feels like my tib would pull alot higher if it wasnt for that damm rev limiter. When I take my stang to the track I have A 51/4" tac and a big shift light and I never even look at them but I keep on blowing off 10sec quarters all the time anyway.

I RACE TO WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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The problem is that the stock hydraulic Lash adjusters in the 1996-2001 Beta engines do not like high RPM. Max you can take them to is maybe 7500 or 8000. Any higher RPM and you will have valve problems.

The 2001 Elantra (and I'm assuming the Tuscani 2.0L beta) has normal "shim under bucket" valve adjustment, so this will stand up to much higher RPM than the stock HLA's will.

Leave it to Random to Needlessly complicate things.
 

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yeah i wouldnt dump the clutch considering you will either bog out or spin youd prolly like keeping it at a moderate rpm like 3 then letting it out smooth but quick its all timing its near impossible to perfect timing but alot of practice goes a long way or just race your casual honda considering most of them are rather easy to beat of course unless they have a considerable amount of work done to them !
 

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i have the same question for my 03 gt v6...what do i launch at and what do i shift at? i just bought it so i know nothing about the car. spanks a bunch.
 

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shift at 6000 rpms is standard technique for the v6. rolling start at forty miles per hour though, downshift into second at 4300 rpms or higher. then slam the gas while releasing the cluch. i usually have to double clutch but i also use a stage 3 clutch.

i have redone all the internals and i usually shift around 7200.

release at whatever rpm causes your tires to chirp without them spinning continuously.
 

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TWINCAM said:
I have no idea where I shift my car, after you race enough times you just get a feel for it. I know it feels like my tib would pull alot higher if it wasnt for that damm rev limiter. When I take my stang to the track I have A 51/4" tac and a big shift light and I never even look at them but I keep on blowing off 10sec quarters all the time anyway.

I RACE TO WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

post a time slip that was not photoshopped or a vid.
 

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^^^ look at the dates of the posts.

This post is funny anyways the first guy talks about double clutching... wahewww
 
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