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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i recently got a 2004 Accent Sport. now is the "sport" the same as the GT or what's the difference if there is any? and will the 2.0 beta go into my car as "easy" as others?
 

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i beieve they are the same. the only differance between the gt and and base model was rocker panels, wing, wheels, and springs. maybe slighty thicker sway bars but i doubt it

yea beta is easy in it.
 

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for example, ryanolsen is one member who has a beta swapped lc2..

lc and lc2 dimension and mechanicals specs are virtually the same, except for a few exterior differences

the chassis is identical, same interior, same boot, same lug pattern, etc
 

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Depends on the country and year of the car. from what I know the US never had an Accent SPORT. They had the base model or GT. Yeas beta swap are fine and dandy but a PITA to really fit into an 04-05 year model because the engine bay was made smaller. Ive seen 2002 Accents with 1.6 motors rockin big turbos and slim fans...Im just running a small 14b and even with slim fans the thing still sits right against them I got NOOO room for much unless I move the radiator up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah i don't know about the whole sport thing. all i know is my cousin bought my car in my area from a hyundai dealership and it says "sport" under the accent badge. is it better to swap the engine for, say, a beta or to add minor performance mods to the engine that is already in there?
 

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ever thought of moving the radiator in front of the radiator support?

some mild bracket fabrication is involved but simple
 

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ever thought of moving the radiator in front of the radiator support?

some mild bracket fabrication is involved but simple
I have. I am trying to steer away from fabricating too much. My goal is to be able to show that the 1.6 Alpha motor is not only capable of holding 200-220 whp on stock internals but that it can all be done with little effort. So foar Im solid. I got the turbo in, the intercooler, injectors all I need is for it to be tuned.

ktnkguitar: Depends what you want to do. If yo want solid n/a power yeah do the beta swap. you can do some minor mods I/H/E and be good to go with maybe 130whp (if you use the 1.6 ecu) or even 140 if you use the 2.0 wire harness and ecu. Not sure. If you are looking for more I say just boost the 1.6 motor with around 5-7 psi and you will get 140-165whp. Depending on what turbo you use it may be less may be more. If you decide you want a street killing machine, well do the beta swap get internals and then boost that puppy to 15-17 psi hell you can destroy just about any car...you will deffinatly be in the exotic category with 300-400 to the wheels in such a small little car.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have. I am trying to steer away from fabricating too much. My goal is to be able to show that the 1.6 Alpha motor is not only capable of holding 200-220 whp on stock internals but that it can all be done with little effort. So foar Im solid. I got the turbo in, the intercooler, injectors all I need is for it to be tuned.

ktnkguitar: Depends what you want to do. If yo want solid n/a power yeah do the beta swap. you can do some minor mods I/H/E and be good to go with maybe 130whp (if you use the 1.6 ecu) or even 140 if you use the 2.0 wire harness and ecu. Not sure. If you are looking for more I say just boost the 1.6 motor with around 5-7 psi and you will get 140-165whp. Depending on what turbo you use it may be less may be more. If you decide you want a street killing machine, well do the beta swap get internals and then boost that puppy to 15-17 psi hell you can destroy just about any car...you will deffinatly be in the exotic category with 300-400 to the wheels in such a small little car.:D
which one of these directions would still give me decent gas mileage. i'm still in college and getting the 30-35 mpg is pretty friggin awesome and i don't wanna lose that (or at least a lot of it).
 

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hey fintile, bend the brackets up top spanky.. thats what i did, game me almost and inch and a half extra room. or you could remove your a/c (if you got it) and tuck the rad under the core support where the a/c condenser was. or remove passenger side fan, swap to driver side and your good.... a/c will still work fine, just minus one fan
 

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if u want to save gas then do not get a turbo- more air = more fuel so ud be down at least 20% on gas milage if u want BETTER gas milage and a nice sound then do what i did.... (g4eb)1.5L sohc- i put a short ram intake a exhuast and i put full synthetic in the engine and the tranny and i was getting 32 mpg stock now i get 38-40 and i usually drive in the 3000 rpm range in the 2000 range (grandma style) and summer 1 min warm up i can get around 40+
 

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you can still get great mpg's turbo... its called stay out of boost and get a good tune...
 

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Hi ktnkguitar,

The Beta swap is simple as far as engine swaps go, but it's still not a very simple process. It's still probably easier than going turbo though.

N/A 1.6l mods will only get you maybe 110whp unless you get cams and internal work. I would say that no matter how much money you threw at it you would never break 140whp with the 1.6l N/A.

Nitrous is a fairly inexpensive way to be fast, and it's got no effect when you're not using it. It gets expensive if you use it very often though.

I've got I/H/E on my '03 and it made 100whp 109lb/ft. If you want to see it sometime or talk about it more come out to one of the Washington meets. We get together pretty often but we usually plan it on Welcome To Hyundai Aftermarket.org! more than on here. I try to throw an invite on here though if I get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah i'm not necessarily lookin to take it on the track or anything, im just looking for anyway to get even better gas mileage and maybe give it a little bit more pep.
 

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dude, your wrong... you can still get great mpg's when not in boost. no boost= no extra air= no extra fuel needed! you wont have boost unless your under load or heavy acceleration... so while not in boost theres no extraa air....
 

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u can get better mpg with turbo's depending on how u do it vw, dodge, ford, alot of people do it its all about tuning it like with our motors u probably only want about 3 to 4 maybe not even that much but it has to be tune air/fuel advanced/retarding it, it all based on how much boost and how its tuned but i dun see a reason in putting on a turbo for aything more then power it wouldnt be worth the money in the long run ya u would get better mpg but it wll probably take well over 5 years for it to pay for its self, not worth it in my books stay NA
 

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no.... u still need the correct amount of fuel to match the amount of air.... so a turbo would deff use more fuel then N/A ever would, if hes going to college then i would offer advice to not do that because of the chance of engine damage and the mpg.. issue 5-7 psi would still be a bit much for a stock car.
your kidding right? where the hell do you get your information from?

600hp + 32MPG in a 4000lbs car with the A/C on
200hp + 36MPG in a 2400lbs car beating it up alittle
1200hp + 24MPG in a 4500lbs truck with the a/c on @ 70mph

yeah you can get great mileage with turbos :D Main thing is to keep it out of boost and its like driving a stock car almost, but once you start beating on it fuel goes fast!
 

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My information... Well i have 4 yrs of shop experience
Maximum boost is my bible i have a degree of applied science in auto mechanics
and im only 18 soon to be 19 if u ask how i went to college it is cuz i got my called G.E.D at 16 and my funding was paid for by the state..... and also MR.non-boost guy when the car does not produce boost the turbo and piping becomes a bottleneck int he intake and exhaust side of the engine resulting in LESS mpg and also for the turbo doesnt use gas- U must HAVE a ratio of gas and AIR for it so i dont wanna here making 1000 hp and getting 32mpg city ok u r a ****ing retard
besides a car like that is not even drivable on the town unless u have a remote boost controller.... and VERY high octane gas handy.... for these cars run 10 compression.....on sohc...so explain that to him 2 about the detonation that may occur... and to top it all off why is it when they rate fuel pumps they only go to a certain HP becuz u need so much fuel for so much air = so much HP so there u go...
 

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My information... Well i have 4 yrs of shop experience
Maximum boost is my bible i have a degree of applied science in auto mechanics
and im only 18 soon to be 19 if u ask how i went to college it is cuz i got my called G.E.D at 16 and my funding was paid for by the state..... and also MR.non-boost guy when the car does not produce boost the turbo and piping becomes a bottleneck int he intake and exhaust side of the engine resulting in LESS mpg and also for the turbo doesnt use gas- U must HAVE a ratio of gas and AIR for it so i dont wanna here making 1000 hp and getting 32mpg city ok u r a ****ing retard
besides a car like that is not even drivable on the town unless u have a remote boost controller.... and VERY high octane gas handy.... for these cars run 10 compression.....on sohc...so explain that to him 2 about the detonation that may occur... and to top it all off why is it when they rate fuel pumps they only go to a certain HP becuz u need so much fuel for so much air = so much HP so there u go...
Well I thank you for coming in here and explaining to me the in's and out's of power and fuel economy. Your age explains everything, you are only 18, you have piss all for real life experience and you are trying to tell a shop owner, who has had 3times the 'experience' you claim to have, and has BUILT race cars, street cars, and anything in between how its done. I however am not coming in here trying to call you down, like you so childishly seem to be. But you're 'information' is BS and you have an insane amount to learn.:rolleyes:

Maximum boost, although great is VASTLY outdated these days, alot and i mean ALOT has changed since that 'bible' was written. ;)

This 'bottleneck' you are talking about, when out of boost, is not really a bottleneck at all. The back-pressure created by a turbo out of boost on a vehicle is damn near non-existent while cruising around. When you are in boost is when you start to get the exhaust back-pressure pre-turbo and you generally do not want to exceed a 1:1 ratio (back-pressure vs. boost) however many are pushing the limits these days with 2:1. Now as for an 'intake' bottleneck, there is none.

As for high compression and boost, or high compression and 'pump gas'. Again you have alot to learn. 10:1 on an aluminum headed engine on pump gas is piss all (I run 87 octane gas with a combination like that most of the time, 92/94 octane on 12:1 compression ratio on an N/A engine, and only when at the 'track' do i usually dumb something alittle more in there like C6 fuel and thats only because i'd switch to a 'race tune' with alittle more radical timing/fuel curves).

However there are many more parts to these equations and its not just a static compression ratio that determines the need for octane, certain timing tables etc. You also have Dynamic compression ratio (the more important one), proper quench, and many other things to think about.

as for rating fuel pumps, WTF does that have to do with fuel mileage?

Now i can go on arguing and proving you are wrong all day here, but i'm not going to bother, point in the matter is dont try and be an e-know-it-all when you have no clue about hard facts, and real world experience.
 
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