dont try getting any help with that. i installed one a few weeks ago and tried getting help on here, no one really gave any solid information. but seeing as how i went through it and my car runs fine, what sort of stuff do you need to know.
well if you dont need help installing it. the 1.8 intake cam has a little bit longer duration over the 2.0 but not the exhuast cam. so the extra duration of leaving the valves open gives about 5~8 hp (8 according to some guy who dynoed before and after) gain in the higher RPM range.
I need to know what does the cam need to come out of, why is this cam better, where will I see a power increase (low, mid, high?), what will I lose? I need to know "why" this is the right move v.s a aftermarket cam (wich I can't use in my class anyway). I can't find the details on the swap. Like I said, I know how to change cams, not which cam , why and what I'll get out of it. I read the XD cam has reliabibly issues, what about the 1.8 cam?
i think u started typing ur post while i was posting. but one reason this i would go for this cam swap over after market is because it only cost about 50 bucks off the internet where aftermarket cams will cost you an arm and leg. It can come out of any 1.8l beta engine. you can find them on ebay or in the section for selling stuff on this site or a junk yard.
Oh and im going to quote lilo_shark on these directions for doing the swap, they are what i followed
1.8L Intake Cam Install
This install is only for BETA 1 engines. The installation of a 1.8L Intake Cam in a 2.0L engine is the advance of the intake timing by about 6 degrees. The 2.0L Exhaust Cam is identical to the one found on the 1.8L so there is no reason for the swap. The newer GT Intake Cam has been found to work on Beta 1 engines but most people believe it will cause faster engine internal wear.
This is a fairly simple swap. So here's the info:
- Metric Socket Set
- Torque Wrench (5-15lb/ft is all that is needed)
- (11) New Cam-Journal Bolts (Only needed if you feel you will break yours)
- (1) quart of oil (same flavor as whatever you have currently in the car)
- A clean and dust free place to work (Preferably not out doors)
- Grease rags
- 1.8L Intake Cam (KSpec.com)
- (1) New Valve Cover Gasket (Current gasket could be reused but replacement is preferred)
Step 1: Valve Cover Removal
- Remove the spark plug cover
- Remove plug wires
- Remove the two bolts from the top part of the timing belt cover (The two that are screwed sideways into the valve cover)
- Remove the valve cover (If you plan on reusing the valve gasket remove the cover very carefully)
Step 2: Intake Cam Removal
- There is an index mark on the exhaust and intake cam (A painted or raised dot). If the dots are not facing straight up you need to either hand crank the engine or blip the starter extremely fast until it does.
- Removal all journal bolts on the intake side
- Remove the #5 lower journal bolt on the exhaust side (Connected to the chain guide)
- Lift the Cam out gently and “un-twist‿ it off of the chain
Step 3: Intake Cam Installation
- Use the quart of oil and lather the new intake cam
- The index make on the intake cam needs to be five full links from the exhaust cam index mark (Pictured below)
- Once index marks are lined up lay the cam in the motor
- The cam will not sit flat for now. That is fine
- Install all intake journals as depicted below (10 lb/ft torque)
- Install the chain guide and the remaining exhaust journal bolt (10 lb/ft torque)
Step 4: Finalizing Project
- Either hand crank or blip the starter to make the cam spin. If installed correctly everything should spin freely without hitting anything else
- Install Valve Gasket / Cover (15 lb/ft torque)
- Install plug wires
- Install spark plug cover
- Reset the ECU by removing the negative battery terminal for 10-15 minutes
- Leave car run approx. 15 minutes to allow oil to circulate through head
- Drive gently for the next 200-300 miles to allow ECU to correctly realign itself
-------------->just to be sure of it make sure you mark the chain where the dot of the cam is. easier for aligning or 5 chain links apart.
longer duration means more air at any rpm. this translates to power across the band, however not balanced. i felt a little increase in power and tourque in lower rpms, but yes, this mod shines in the upper part of the band. your surely not going to lose power anywhere though. good luck with it, i enjoy it.
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