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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey I just bought an 02 Accent GSI that I plan on Autocross racing in local events.

What I need to know is where can I find the proper parts I need?

Front and Rear Strut bars
Anti Sway Bars
Short Shifter
I've easily got a line of KYB's and Springs but who make a good adjustable coil over conversion?
Do they make a Header for the 1.6L?

Thanks any knowledge is appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No, seriously, any help you can give...hahaa

thanks that was quite an extensive list and now I know where to shop for my goodies

should make that sticky...
 

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I was thinking "who needs a sticky of those websites ?" but so many newbies ask about places to buy stuff. We should actually make a sticky with just a list of vendors that sell hyundai parts and things people are always asking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
exactly I came from driving an ef Honda to the accent and even with my best efforts I couldn't come across the right websites to give me what I needed. Even reading a few threads didn't give up much information
 

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No problem. I wanted to write more, but as it turned out I ran out of time just as I finished looking up the parts.

I've been autocrossing my Accent a bit, and there are some people who have autocrossed their Accents here quite a bit with pretty good success.

If you need anything else just ask. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm sure I'll be asking tons of questions in the future

Thanks again
 

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No need for strut bar or short shifter IMO. If you want coilovers I say go with Ksport or you can get koni shocks with regular lowering springs and then work your way up to eibach racing springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Basicly I'm setting up my Accent much like I had my civic (go with what you know) I just like the feel of the short throw when changing gears
 

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If the events are SCCA, be sure to check the rules so you don't accidentally install a part that bumps you into a class you can't be competitive in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't run any SCCA events, I'm up in Ontario Canada EH!

My local club is CASC-OR Sanctioned and I have a very thick rule book I was running FSP (street prepared) with my Civic and was competitive. We may have 1 or 2 event's coming up if we can secure a parking lot. I will be running H stock for now and we'll see how I do.
 

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well i've been autocrossing my accents for 2 years now with some pretty good success. I have a pretty extensive write up of my season this year autoxing my 99 x3. In some other posts I posted my setup i've been using this season. here is a link to my ongoing post of this season http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/fastest-car-world/81242-i-win-first-event-accent-cup.html

If your used to an ef civic your going to be dissapointed with the accent. The struts of the accent won't ever compare to the double wishbone on the civic. Same things work on both cars though. A bigger rear sway bar will really help the rear rotate, and if your going to be autoxing a good bit you should definately look into some much stiffer springs and koni inserts. I'm running the ksports with 7kg springs f/r and i'm not happy with them. I'm going to try to get some konis and ground control sleeves this off season. by far the best thing is going with a bigger wheel and tire package. For power adders a good cheap intake and exhaust will give you a few hp and better throttle response, anything more is going to cost you significantly more and won't give you much more power. A good mod that won't add any performance to the car but will make you faster is a good harness. The stock seats suck and a harness will hold you in even without side support.

If you do run some scca ruled events this will make you eligible for sts or fsp. Adding a header will give you some more power but will allow you only to run in fsp or street mod because you have to relocate the converter.

If you don't ever run in scca ruled events then you won't have to worry about nitpicking.

if i had to start building the car all over again this would be my plan of attack:

1)Wheels and tires and a good alignment
2)koni inserts and ground control sleeves
3)adjustable rear sway bar
4)intake/exhaust mods

strut braces aren't all that necessary, it might be something to consider down the road, a short shift kit will help since hyundai makes pretty crappy shifters.

good luck
if you need anymore advice don't hesitate to ask
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did have a really good run with the EF but I was getting tired of fixing it. I have a list a mile look with all the repairs that I did compounded by the fact that it was rusting out.

I'm hoping a good set up will put me somewhere close to the civic as I was quite competitive with that car.

when you talk about Intake are you saying a "cold air" or an actual intake manifold.

do you have pics of your setup right now?
 

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There's a very good chance your club is using the SCCA rulebook as its basis, especially given that you've been running in FSP up there. So, here's the solo rulebook.
http://scca.com/documents/Solo Rules/2008_Solo_Rules_2.pdf

Another parts source out of Australia that I didn't see listed is RPW.
Racing Performance Works
Mostly mitsubishi stuff, but they used to have some Hyundai parts.

FSP is where I ran my old Accent (a 98) and might be co-driving one again next year (see you sunday Andy). The good news is the car isn't underpowered. The bad news is the LC is overweight with struts (though struts certainly haven't hurt the VW crowd). You will not be competitive with this car in STS if there is an 89-91 civic si in your region with a decent driver. You might be competitive in FSP if you can find a way to get the LC's weight down from its ~2450# factory curb weight to something around 2000#'s or less. But I'm also speaking from a very competitive region and from my brief experience at national events, so your region will likely vary.

My advice to you is to not do anything to the car yet. Just go drive it (in H Stock) and get used to it and figure out what the glaring deficiencies are before you move back to STS or FSP.

If you must mod, I do mostly agree with Andy's starting point with the car: wheels+tires and Struts. LC's have the same 4x100 bolt pattern as the civic, so get a set of 13xwide wheels (I personally lean towards the 13x7.5 Lenso VPD or 13x8 Rota RB's for cost purposes) and either the Kuhmo V710 in 215/50/13 (its slower, narrower, and heavier than the Hoosier A6, but cheaper, longer lasting, and more friendly to camber deficient alignments). Then get Koni inserts for the stock struts, and go drive the car. Maybe put an exhaust on it for noise purposes. Drive it for a few events that way and start formulating a plan of attack that way.
 

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Speaking of setups, here's my old car


at the 05 Solo nationals in Topeka.



It was a 1998 Accent L with no p/s and a/c. Setup was:
Eibach lowering springs on blown OE struts
13x7 Rota's with 225/50/13 Hoosier R3S04's (free takeoffs)
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
2" catback w/ a cherry bomb muffler under the shifter (it was light and cheap)
Front and rear strut bars, HVE I think?
stainless braided brake lines
Scrothe Rally4 harness

Thats all. I was actually mid-pack in the rain on my first two runs at Nats, but then it dried out and I got smoked. :( It was a great local car though, tons of fun to drive! Its the only car I really regret selling, I think I had maybe $2000 into it including the purchase price of $600 and $300 for new brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
you can't tell me that 7" rims stuck out that far from the wheel well? did you have wheel spaces or was the back spacing really small?
 

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They were +4 offset wheels. There was no way to get the 225's under the fenders without rubbing on the strut, so I bought wheels that would give me (barely) enough clearance inboard. Outboard clearance was taken care of by the tires being much shorter than stock.

Wait till you see the big hoosiers I'm trying to convince Andy to run next year... :D
 
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