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Discussion Starter #1
My friend and I plan to buy a hyundai fairly cheap (decent condition 01-03ish) and build it up gradually as we improve. (common: Wheels/Tires, Suspension, N/A Bolt Ons)

Ruling out a tiburon due to insurance (we are in our early 20s and this is an extra car) and we want to do the majority of the work ourselves in my garage. (I have some experience with suspension work) At this point in time an engine swap is ruled out as well as forced induction. (Basic mechanical skills betweens us, just maintenance knowledge) and are hoping to use this as a learning experiance. Handling a slower car well, before jumping into a super quick car or something heavily modded.


We like the size, weight, and nimbleness of an Accent 1.6l 5spd, however we enjoy the power and results seen in the Beta engines especially modified. Being that we have ruled out putting a Beta engine in an Accent at this time we need advice on which platform to run with. We are aware that driving skills weigh more heavily here than the difference between the cars, however we'd like some outside opinions.

Can we make the bigger, bulkier Elantra handle as good as we can the Accent? I know we cant put down similiar numbers going N/A Alpha build up route. Which would you lean towards and what makes you pick one over the other?

Thank you in advance for any insight.
 

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That's an interesting question. I was recently looking into AutoX classes and engine swaps put you into the modified category which i'm thinking would have much more experienced drivers.

I would lean towards the Elantra only because there is a lot more aftermarket support for the XD and you'd be able to keep it competitive without as much custom work as the accent would require. that's my opinion and mine only.
 

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I would pick an Accent over an Elantra. While the Elantra isn't a bad car, it's not ever going to be as light as an Accent will be. The power isn't as much of an issue as it seems like on most autox courses. Always pick the car that will handle the course the best, worry about the power later.

That and read through the SCCA SOLO rulebook and plan your mods accordingly. I find myself in FSP due to some mods which don't really help me with racing much if at all. I would suggest changing to Koni Yellow inserts and running as H-stock until you feel you're ready to go all in for one of the non-stock categories. You'll find what you desperately want to upgrade soon enough.
 

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Depends on the class.

Stock? The 2003+ Tiburon. Specifically a GT V6 5spd (better autocross gearing), no sunroof or any other options. Add Hoosiers on stock sized and offset lightweight racing wheels (Kosei K1-TS for inexpensive, custom for anything lighter) and a single exit catback to lose some weight off the car and go drive. Maybe add custom valved Koni inserts later on, but the car is pretty well damped from the factory amazingly. This car has great potential now that its classed in HStock. If the insurance is to high, carry minimum coverage. These are starting to get cheap finally, especially base models, get one!

Another stock class option would be a new accent SE without the moonroof as spec wise its basically a Korean copy of the Mini Cooper that has dominated HStock for years.

ST? Nothing Hyundai (or anyone else) makes can compete with the 89-91 Civic Si so long as there is a maximum tire width of 225mm. An LC accent (1.6L 5spd cars specifically) might do ok, but its weight and strut suspension will hurt it. Tiburon might do ok but with the same limitations. Both would be a knife in a gun fight.

Street Prepared? A 98-99 Accent L hatchback in FSP is the best choice. There's a long list of stuff that would need to be done, totaling in the neighborhood of $15,000 in parts and pieces, but you'd likely have a national championship capable autocross car if you can drive it well enough.

Street mod and above, don't bother with a Hyundai unless you've got tons of cash to throw away.

The elantra, while a nice cheap street car, does not make a good autocross car. Too underpowered, heavy, and long to be better than the 03+ Tiburon or 98-99 Accent. Same goes for the early tiburons and LC accents.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you guys for your insight.

If I were to go with a Tiburon, RD 00-01 would probably be the newest within our price range. Wouldnt it be lighter and less nose heavy than a 03+? I would think a beta engine Tib would be cheaper on insurance as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I see your point about the gearing and power that can be found with a 03+ GT over the beta, but I think the best options we have at our price range of about 4k~ is a 01 Accent GS or any RD1/RD2 Tibby. 5 spd, power nothing, good conidtion, low mileage for the year.
 

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For autocross, a gutted '93-'95 Elantra 2.0L. Later down the road, you can drop in a DSM motor for 200+ whp with basic bolt-ons.
 

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ASSuming your local club follows SCCA rules, what class are you thinking about running? How serious do you want to be with it?

The RD is lighter (by about 400 pounds), but it is also down about 40hp and tq (stock for stock, make it 50+hp and torque a good exhaust on both), and has a crappier factory suspension. If you're getting the earlier tib, get the newest RD2 you can afford and make DAMN sure it does not have captive rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Id like to run stock class for a long time and use this as a learning experience that may lead up to other forms of organized racing.

Thanks for the tip on the captive rotors. Are they on all RD1s and some RD2s?
 

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They're only on some '97's.
 

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I have a 1998 Hyundai Elantra 1.8L that I want to the rallycross track (next year). Reading this thread, I am less sure that I want to pursue this project... the car has those damn captive rotors, can these thing be replaced with devent one?

thanks
 

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from what i have seen so far a sentra ser 97 and older isn't such a bad idea since they have about 140hp on the crank and is very light.

other than that i would rather use my 86 corolla sr5 anyday. compared to the test between my sohc LC accent and the corolla. the corolla handles way better and feels alot lighter. my old x3 accent handles better than my LC. whoever owned my lc before me riced it up good. if it was stock suspension i would of improved it better since they past owner slam the car. killing it's suspension at the same time. he riced up this car to the point where this car can barely turn on 30-35mph on a 90 degree intersection corners compared to my old x3 and my sr5 corolla. what's cool is that my corolla can turn at a high speed without doing crazy things.

you can also buy a aw11 mr2. the old aw11 are lighter compared to the last aw11 or any other mr2. cheapest and handles good. you can even swap a 20v 4ag in there with a little work.

my suggestions for a cheap good handling car would be:

- S13 240sx 89-94
- AW11 MR2 86-??
- NA Miata 89-97 (miata fans suggest turboes or anything non jackson racing for FI)
- B13 Sentra SER pre 97 (because they have factory LSD and weighs less than 2500lbs.)
- Honda Civics (Haven't heard much but with the right stuff these handles well on budget and does good as much as i've heard. spoon ecu was used on one of my buddies at an autox and he did pretty well on his jdm motor D16 CRX. he told me spoon ecu will help spread your horsepower to even it out on all RPM bands. giving you balanced power.)
 

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Generally I would pick the lighter one.weight is the main thing in "x" system as a reason for not autocrossing it. (around 200lbs)

Pick a class first... They both fit in D stock and STX. The 330 is in DSP. It looks like the 325 falls under the NOC in DSP since it is not listed in ASP with the e9x 328 and 335. (Hm, but by that token, so is a e9x 330... Anyone game for a DSP 330 build?)

Regarding the engines, while the peak torque of the 325 might be lower than the M54 in the 330, don't overlook the MASSIVE torque band of the N52 in the 325. To quote an s2000 driver riding along for a 15mph turnaround in 2nd gear in our z4: "Holy CRAP you have a lot of torque!" Again, the weight is a factor here (power to weight ratio).
Tuning Chip
 
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