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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I start auto-x soon and am looking into getting some r-compounds eventually. What is the widest tire I can run, regardless of wheel without rubbing? I have a LC2 that's lowered 1.5" I have 195/50-15s on there now. Could I run 205? Or even higher? I know that's kind of a pain in the ass question... :eek: I want to get the widest contact patch I can. And how cool are these... SSR Type C Anthracite Painted
 

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Lowered 1.5" I think the widest tire you can fit in your rear wheel well without trimming or rubbing would be a 205. You may even need to trim a bit to get that to work. That'll depend a lot on what size and offset wheel you're running. You want that offset to barely let the inside of your tire miss the strut. With 215's on a (18") 7.5" wide wheel there was effectively no clearance between the tire and the strut and I had to grind my fender lip down to about .25" along the top and completely away on the plastic bumper portion. The increased diameter of the 215/35/18 probably made clearance about the same as running a 215 width tire of stock diameter with your lowering. With the 215/35/18 I never did fully eliminate all rubbing but I got it down to a reasonable level. I couldn't have autocrossed on that setup though unless I installed taller bump stops or stiffer springs.
 

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Hey guys I start auto-x soon and am looking into getting some r-compounds eventually. What is the widest tire I can run, regardless of wheel without rubbing? I have a LC2 that's lowered 1.5" I have 195/50-15s on there now. Could I run 205? Or even higher? I know that's kind of a pain in the ass question... :eek: I want to get the widest contact patch I can. And how cool are these... SSR Type C Anthracite Painted
Which club are you going to be running with? What class do you want to run in? I ran with the DC SCCA region for the last few years in FSP and STS, if you make it into one of their events I'd be happy to co-drive and give you some pointers. AIM at skierd007, email at skierd007 at hotmail dot com.

Is your car still at the specs on the cardomain page? So a cone filter, strut bar, lowering springs, non-adjustable rear sway bar (should have gotten the whiteline 3-way adj bar), short shifter, and 15x6.5 wheels with ES100's. Right now your mods put the car in STS.

First off, leave the tires alone for the time being, you're not going to be competitive or much fun without new struts. Koni makes inserts that fit the car, however the rears are not externally adjustable unless you get them rebuilt. I *think* the 00-4 tiburon inserts, which are stiffer and externally adjustable all around, will fit in the accent. To make sure, measure the diameter and height of the strut housing and call Koni to match those specs up. I'm 99% sure the strut diameter is the same, and if the height is close it'll probably work, as them for their opinion. If the Tiburon units fit, they're about $600-700. If you have to use the accent units, its again about $600-700 for the set plus $300 to rebuild the rears and convert them to externally adjustable (last time I checked, call them to make sure).
http://www.koni-na.com/

If you want to get a dedicated set of autocross wheels and stay in STS, go with any 15x7 wheel with a +40 offset thats around 12 pounds or less. Rota Slipstreams, Enkei RPF1, SSR's or Volk TE-37 or CE-28's if you've got the coin to burn, Kosei K1-TS, etc. Mount a set of 195-50-15 Bridgestone RE-01R's, and if you buy the combo from Tire Rack have them shave the tires to 4/32nds. There are other two tires that matter in STS. The Falken Azenis RT-615 is almost as fast but less consistent than the 'stones. The Toyo R1R are soon to be available in 225/45/15 and are aparently faster than the rest of the tire crop based on the first national tour results this year (Dixie Tour), but treadwear is laughable: 55-60 runs and they're done when shaved to 3/32nds. And they're not cheap.

If you are stuck on going with R comps, I don't blame you! :) Your mods put you into FStreet Prepared. The cheap+durable+fast choice there is simple: 13x7.5 Lenso VPD's (buy them here for $295/pair HondaMarketPlace.com: Wheels, Tires, and Suspension: VPD and XPD-R Skinnies: Exospeed Racing Wheels/Lenso, M&H *THE ORIGINATOR of SLICK AND WHEEL PACKAGE ) with 215/50/13 Kuhmo V710's. If you want to go with big purple instead, the Hoosier A6 is available in two sizes that work well, 225/50/13 and the shorter 225/45/13. They'll all stick out of the fenders, but you'll bottom the suspension out before you rub.
A third option, if you're really feeling crazy, came out last year. Hoosier now makes the A6 in 275/35/15, which are nearly as tall as stock and therefore will fit height-wise in the wheel wells. Call Kodiak or Keizer or someone similar and have a set of 15x10 or 15x11 wheels made with no more than 4.5" of backspacing to mount them on. It'll be about $3000 for those ($500+/wheel and $260/tire) but you'll probably never run out of grip and it gives you an excuse to sawzall the fenders!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Holy crap skierd thanks for all the info. haha. Right now I'm gonna run the events that the Capital Driving Club (Capital Driving Club) puts on. They don't have any classes, everyone just runs so I don't have to worry about a class. I think my mods have put me into classes where I don't know if I'll be competitive in the SCCA events you're talking about but I'm not ruling those out, I'm just trying out the Capital events b/c I live in the area and just getting started. I'm going to run the wheels and tires I have now into the ground and then look into something else, just started looking early.

I thought I remembered seeing that Koni made shocks for the car and there was a link to it through the PSC website, a company that I believe has gone under or is hardly active, but I can't find that anymore. As far as the Tiburon vs. Accent struts go, is having them adjustable a must?

The car is my daily driver so I don't want to do anything crazy i.e. sawzall the fenders haha. I liked those SSRs in the link of my original post b/c they basically weigh nothing, I dunno how many tire options I'd have though. If i could fit some 205's in there without seriously grinding anything down that would be ideal, even with a bit of rubbing. Like I said thanks again man, let me know what you think.
 

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You really have 4 tire options in two groups: R comps (Kuhmo V710 vs Hoosier A6) and Street Tires (Bridgstone RE-01R - current best overall, Falken Azenis RT-615 - as fast as the stones, cheaper, but harder to drive, and the Toyo Proxes R1R - newest of the bunch, no hard data yet, but did well at the first national Solo event a week ago). If you decide to run R-comps, run a 13x7.5 or 13x8 wheel and the get one of the sizes recommended above.

Honestly with as new as I think you are to the sport, I can't fully recommend R-comps just yet. Once you hit the r-comp pipe, its hard to go back and its real easy to use the grip to cover up driving mistakes, they wear out quick and are expensive to replace. The quickest way to better times would be replacing your ES100's with Bridgestone RE-01R's in 195/50/15 at full tread. You'll get decent street life out of them, great wet traction, and they still stick like glue. And they're only the same size on paper, they were wider and shorter than my 225/45/15 Hankook Z212's were.:eek: Its a very forgiving tire to drive on as well, reminds me a lot of the old Kuhmo Victoracer (thats a good thing).

If you must have a second dedicated set of wheels, call the Tire Rack. Order whatever 15x7 wheels you really like (the SSR's are pimpy for sure, but the Enkei RPF1's are nearly as light and cheaper, same with the kosei K1-TS) and get the same Bridgestone tires, but have them shaved to 4/32nds ($15/tire, not an option on the website hence having to call them).

You WILL need to roll the lip on the rear wheel well flat. I used a PVC pipe to do mine, just have some touchup paint ready in case the paint cracks. The tire will still rub on the part where the rear bumper screws into the fender, but it won't be enough to damage either the tire or the fender/bumper in my opinion. Honestly, I'm not sure if it will even rub there since the 'stones will be as short as stock (205/50/15's are a half inch taller).

Any Koni dealer, including the Tire Rack, can get you the inserts you need. You can also order them directly from Koni on their website. Having them adjustable is really nice, but not 100% necessary for where you are now (learning).

I'm familiar with CDC, haven't run an event with them yet.

There are a few other groups close to you:

Washington DC SCCA - runs at FedEx Field in Landover (redskins stadium), have to pre-register to get into event (no on-site registration due to 250+ drivers per event). 4 runs on the massive lots at FedEx, usually 1 minute plus, against top caliber drivers.
WDCR Home

Autocrossers Inc. - older club, co-op with the DC region. Also runs at FedEx (I think)
Autocrossers Incorporated

National Road Rally (Cumberland, MD) - run at the Cumberland Airport, FAST courses, lots of Cobra's and vintage iron shows up. 2 day events (though you can register for just one day), all around fun time.
National Road Rally 2007

NASA Mid Atlantic - Runs in VA, not sure where, never ran with them
Welcome to NASA Mid Atlantic

Porsche Club of America (PCA) Zone 2 (mid atlantic) - Open to other makes, get to go out and embarass P-car owners!
Zone 2 Porsche Club of America

BMW Car Club of America (BMWCCA) - National Capital chapter - also open to other makes, never autocrossed with them but heard good things, participate (when I can) in their winter karting league at Allsports GP in Dulles.
National Capital Chapter, BMW CCA



BTW, my offer to co-drive is always there if you want it, just give me a heads up in time to get registered for the event.
 
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