A few weeks ago i was doing a burnout in the accent and was getting pissed at the wheelhop, and I was wndering if anyone has tried filling their tranny/motor mounts with window weld to make them more solid? I know the guys on dsmtalk.com do that alot with their GST's. Just a thought
window weld (DIY solid engine mount hack)
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Look here. I know a couple of people have done it and saw some imporvement, but I believe when you do it you feel it more in the steering wheel also.
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=30281
http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=30281
I dont really notice any additional vibration in the steering wheel. I only did the rear mount, but what a difference it makes!
Tools:
14mm socket & wrench
17mm socket & wrench
caulk gun
tube of 3m Window weld
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As always, use jack stands to support the car.
1.) raise the car onto jackstands, and make sure its secure (ebrake on w/ wheel chocks, etc)
2) get under the car and fine the rear roll stopper (ie motor mount).
3)undo the three bolts connecting the mount to the subframe
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4)undo the central bolt that goes through the mount, and take the mount out of the car.
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5) Take a look at the mount, guess where the windo weld goes...
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6) fill the mount in layers, letting each one dry completely before adding the next. It should only take a few hours. When you're done, it should look like this:
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7)After making completely sure its all the way dry and cured, reinstall the mount and go for a drive, enjoying the newfound lack of engine movement.
Enjoy!
[Edited by skierd on Aug 26, 2003 2:48 PM]
Tools:
14mm socket & wrench
17mm socket & wrench
caulk gun
tube of 3m Window weld
As always, use jack stands to support the car.
1.) raise the car onto jackstands, and make sure its secure (ebrake on w/ wheel chocks, etc)
2) get under the car and fine the rear roll stopper (ie motor mount).
3)undo the three bolts connecting the mount to the subframe
4)undo the central bolt that goes through the mount, and take the mount out of the car.
5) Take a look at the mount, guess where the windo weld goes...
6) fill the mount in layers, letting each one dry completely before adding the next. It should only take a few hours. When you're done, it should look like this:
7)After making completely sure its all the way dry and cured, reinstall the mount and go for a drive, enjoying the newfound lack of engine movement.
Enjoy!
[Edited by skierd on Aug 26, 2003 2:48 PM]
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i did it to the 3 transmission moounts and do feel a slight increase in vibration, but noone else does, its really almost nothing. and no more wheel hop and no rubber banded launches, but be careful letting off the gas over 3000rpm cos the nose dives quickly with no flex or time for error. its a feeling i really like, seems like theres much more control over the throttle loads overall.
also windo-weld is a BIATCH to get off your hands, takes a day or 2 to wear off. just overfill the mount a little and wrap some saran wrap over the goo smoothly and it will look very smooth and shiny and not have the ripples and bumps on it. just let it cure for a day then take the wrap off and it will dry completely in another day. i dunno about timeframes i just did it one day while my mounts were laying around not on my car as usual.
edit
oh yeah and windo-weld is FREAKING THICK viscosity. my hands hurt after filling all 3 mounts, it takes a lot and comes out soooooo ssslllooowwwwwwwwwww :ermm:
[Edited by beppomarx on Aug 26, 2003 3:36 PM]
also windo-weld is a BIATCH to get off your hands, takes a day or 2 to wear off. just overfill the mount a little and wrap some saran wrap over the goo smoothly and it will look very smooth and shiny and not have the ripples and bumps on it. just let it cure for a day then take the wrap off and it will dry completely in another day. i dunno about timeframes i just did it one day while my mounts were laying around not on my car as usual.
edit
oh yeah and windo-weld is FREAKING THICK viscosity. my hands hurt after filling all 3 mounts, it takes a lot and comes out soooooo ssslllooowwwwwwwwwww :ermm:
[Edited by beppomarx on Aug 26, 2003 3:36 PM]
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on that note..
#1. you dont need to remove the engine to replace the clutch.
#2 no it isnt hard. just remove the radiator, clutch line, water distribution block, shifter linkages, starter, tranny mounts, and the tranny bolts themselves (theres 5 on yours i believe) after jacking up on the oil pan (use 2x4's dont jack metal on metal), and youre set. gotta pull it out from the top and removing the radiator is only the hoses and 2 bolts and gives you a lot more room.
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hmm sounds cool.. Love learning new things.. So what exacly are the benefits? I understand that it helps on wheel hop but exacly how? just not allowing for your engine to move.. Isnt it supposed to move for reasons.. ???
It moves for NVH ( thats noise, vibration,a nd harshness) reasons. Solid mounts would shake the car with the engines oscillations. Super soft mounts would make the engine feel like its not there, but hte mounts would quickly be destroyed becuas they are durable enough.
Basically, filling hte mounts makes the engine not move around while you're trying to get busy accelerating, brakeing, and turning. This allows for more precise throttle control, baking, and smoother operation under hard driving.
Basically, filling hte mounts makes the engine not move around while you're trying to get busy accelerating, brakeing, and turning. This allows for more precise throttle control, baking, and smoother operation under hard driving.
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Ahhh.. Sweet.. Thanks alot skeird.. Very informative guy.
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This would be good with a 5 speed manual transmission (window welding the mounts). However, on the automatic transmission equipped cars, the pulse generator is very sensitive to any kind of vibration.
On the earlier model Accents, up to early 2001, Hyundai used the Mitsubishi pulse generators, which often failed as a result of vibration. When Hyundai changed from Mitsubishi to their own part, they thought they solved the problem, by redesigning the part and relocating the mounting point, from the drivers side mount to a location on the body of the car. Even though the redesign reduced the failure rate, they still fail at a rate higher than dealers think they should (which 0 is the goal). The Accent motor does vibrate somewhat (more so than some engines), and the vibration with factory mounts is still high enough for the sensor to fail.
On the earlier model Accents, up to early 2001, Hyundai used the Mitsubishi pulse generators, which often failed as a result of vibration. When Hyundai changed from Mitsubishi to their own part, they thought they solved the problem, by redesigning the part and relocating the mounting point, from the drivers side mount to a location on the body of the car. Even though the redesign reduced the failure rate, they still fail at a rate higher than dealers think they should (which 0 is the goal). The Accent motor does vibrate somewhat (more so than some engines), and the vibration with factory mounts is still high enough for the sensor to fail.
I'm assuming this would work just the same for a 5-speed Excel...
what is the difference between using the window caulking and using the actual urathane?
other than price... and the urathane taking a lot longer to cure...
I'm thinking of doing this now... maybe next week when I have time... or in the harsh winter months. I'll put the car up for a couple days and do the mounts inside my warm house
either way, I'm printing everything off right now
my wheel hop is very very bad... and noticeableuzzled:
[Edited by jerkitt on Sep 16, 2003 10:54 PM]
what is the difference between using the window caulking and using the actual urathane?
other than price... and the urathane taking a lot longer to cure...
I'm thinking of doing this now... maybe next week when I have time... or in the harsh winter months. I'll put the car up for a couple days and do the mounts inside my warm house
either way, I'm printing everything off right now
my wheel hop is very very bad... and noticeable
uzzled:[Edited by jerkitt on Sep 16, 2003 10:54 PM]
whats the shore A rating of window weld?
i did this using something similar to window weld but it is way to soft and got rid of only a tiny bit of wheel hop (did front and rear mounts) so im diging the stuff out and gonna get some flexane made by devcon which seems pretty hard with a shore A 94 hopeing it will make a difference!
i did this using something similar to window weld but it is way to soft and got rid of only a tiny bit of wheel hop (did front and rear mounts) so im diging the stuff out and gonna get some flexane made by devcon which seems pretty hard with a shore A 94 hopeing it will make a difference!
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[/quote]
on that note..
#1. you dont need to remove the engine to replace the clutch.
#2 no it isnt hard. just remove the radiator, clutch line, water distribution block, shifter linkages, starter, tranny mounts, and the tranny bolts themselves (theres 5 on yours i believe) after jacking up on the oil pan (use 2x4's dont jack metal on metal), and youre set. gotta pull it out from the top and removing the radiator is only the hoses and 2 bolts and gives you a lot more room.
[/body]
[/quote]
i dont think taking out the radiator gives you any more room for removing the tranny. ive replaced tons of clutches on tiburons and accents and ive never removed that
on that note..
#1. you dont need to remove the engine to replace the clutch.
#2 no it isnt hard. just remove the radiator, clutch line, water distribution block, shifter linkages, starter, tranny mounts, and the tranny bolts themselves (theres 5 on yours i believe) after jacking up on the oil pan (use 2x4's dont jack metal on metal), and youre set. gotta pull it out from the top and removing the radiator is only the hoses and 2 bolts and gives you a lot more room.
[/body]
[/quote]
i dont think taking out the radiator gives you any more room for removing the tranny. ive replaced tons of clutches on tiburons and accents and ive never removed that
hay guys, I decided to fill in both front and rear engine mounts the other day with flexane 94 liquid! now even though this stuff is like $50 AUS it could easily do all 4 mounts and is absolutely awesome! the front mount is an absolute shocker! if you pull it out (mine was cracked anyways) there is a ruber spacer bit that just sits in there and does **** all! i completely removed this and filled it up with flexane! there is a little more vibration in the car but wheel up is anonymous and gear changes seem to happen alot smoother! i would recommend this mod to anyone as both front and rear mounts are cheesy!!
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