[skierd]

Sweet, I've been waiting for someone to do the front mount. How did you get it out to change it? It looks like I'd have to pull the radiator, if not out at least out of the way, and thats not something i'm really up for.

 

[beppomarx]

a few things:

i already posted that i did the 3 mounts, front rear and drivers side tranny mount.

you do not need to pull the radiator to get at it. using a 3/8 socket and long extention with 14mm small socket (deep socket will not work) you can get between the unibody welds and the front crossmmber, that small gap is there to allow access to the upper frame bolt to the mount. the bottom one you can get at easily. on the transmission side you get the 2 17mm ones off easily, and the top one bust be removed 1/6th of a turn at a time (pain in the @§§) but on all the 17's you need an open ended wrench becasue a socet plus ratchet wont get at it.

also taking out the radiator is not hard at all, it involves draining it, unclamping the intake and exit hoses, overflow hose, unplugging both fans and the 2 12mm bolts on teh top holding the mounts on. the bottom mounts are just little stud deals that sink down into a rubber grommet like the top and once the top ones are off it slides right out with fans attached. all u need is a 12mm socket and pliers to get the clamps off and it takes 5 min and a flush/fill of coolant.

 

[Scrud]

as beppomarx said you dont have to take the radiator out, there is a little gap for you to get in there with a 14mm socket with an extension piece of cake! remove the rubber insert and have a look at how [email protected] it is! but i can't see window weld being hard enough to make that much of a difference try using this flexane 94 stuff... its heaps better even though it might cost a little bit more!!!

 

[monkiehead]

i did my front motor mount and it killed 95% of my wheel hop on launch. I used chemrex pro 2000. i can feel the vibration creeping @ 6200. drivablity is still very smooth. im sure it would kill it completely if i did the rear mount. 8D

 

[Shadohh]

Originally posted by Pussykatt
[body]
A few weeks ago i was doing a burnout in the accent and was getting pissed at the wheelhop, and I was wndering if anyone has tried filling their tranny/motor mounts with window weld to make them more solid? I know the guys on dsmtalk.com do that alot with their GST's. Just a thought
[/body]

Wow, this is old info.
heh

 

[nfx]

Haha... an easier way to fix this would to just let some air out of your front tires. I got a lot of wheelhop in my stock Elantra around turns in 1st and 2nd gear so I decided to try it and it works well. I'm supposed to run 29 PSI but I run 25-24 PSI now in both front tires and if I gun it around a turn in 1st all I get is a squeal; 2nd is practically perfect now.

Just a quick hint.. if there's something wrong w/ me doing this, let me know so I don't **** something up.

 

[audio1der]

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm
Do it; it's a great, easy, cheap mod.

 

[rbuecker]

oh sweet, i misunderstood. i though we had to do all of the mounts, but i have no idea how i'd do the front mount on my accent, and it's all filled in [not true, I just couldnt see anything from where I was looking]. looking back i see that it's only the rear mount, which i've already had to remove to install the sway bar. sweet i'll be doing the window welding this weekend, hopefully it'll keep the engine from rocking back into the front strut bar (thanks for your r&d SR!)

Edit: Okay I've done the front and rear mounts and I am very pleased with the results. I decided not to touch the side mounts because I don't know when I can just let my car sit for a day again. Doing the front mount was easy, had to remove the plastic shield and it was easy-access after that. I did decide to support the engine/tranny with a jack and a block of wood because with the two mounts removed, I could rock it very easily with just the push of a finger and I didn't feel comfortable leaving it unsupported. Coulda been fine I suppose, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[Edited by rbuecker on Jun 18, 2004 8:30 AM]

 

[elantrax]

anyone know how to remove the front roller on a 2000 elantra.

 

[skierd]

Originally posted by elantrax
[body]
anyone know how to remove the front roller on a 2000 elantra.
[/body]

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say hand tools + patience.:hmmm:


but seriously, the front rollstop is a pita to get to as the radiator tends to be in the way. I just left mine alone.

 

[99mini]

a few years ago, i read a post somewhere that suggested using a hockey puck as a engine mount, and i thought he was kidding.

i just got some work done on my car, and the shop used two hockey pucks for the front and rear mounts. it's a perfect press fit (at least for the tiburon mounts). they put some glue on the edge of the puck when they pressed it in, and then sealed the joints with glue. i just drove 8 hours in the car and it was fine.

 

[forcedfx]

Originally posted by elantrax
[body]
anyone know how to remove the front roller on a 2000 elantra.
[/body]

Support the transmission and unbolt the whole lower support. You just remove the front through bolt and rear through bolt then the four bolts holding it up. The whole assy will drop down and you can unbolt them from it.

 

[tdonnell]

I was just wondering if the window weld ever works its way out of the mounts over time? Does it ever crack up or fall apart? Also, what about the idle vibrations that are commonly found in our cars, does this mod make them better, or worse? Thanks for any help.

 

[skierd]

It wouldnt make the idle vibration worse, but you will notice it more with the mount solid. It never worked its way out of my mounts, over a period of 30000 miles or so, so I'd imagine it would stay in place.

 

[tdonnell]

Cool!

I think I am going to perform these mods in the near future. What are the best mounts to do it to again? Just the front and rear engine mounts? I want to stiffen it up, but I don't want it solid if you know what I mean. Thanks for any help.

 

[TAK82]

will silicone sealant like Sikaflex work? My friend who works at a Royal auto glass use's that stuff,

from lookin at the engine from below, I think the front mount seem's to be a solid filled engine mount, the rear one is the hollow one, so im guessing that window welding only the rear mount will fix the wheel hop,

since everytime the engine is revved, the engine swing's backwards towards the firewall, hence the soft rear mount



[Edited by TAK82 on Aug 28, 2005 7:04 PM]

 

[Komptek]

Hmm here a crazy though. how about replacing the rubber mounts with solid mounts, yah teh fibration woudl be crazy but who cares when you will get a solid engine and tranny. Let teh suspension do it's work and enjoy. This would be more for the extreme tuners then regular drivers of course, but an ideal. The hockey pucks woudl be pretty damn close to solid I would think, if you us the NHL type not the kiddy pucks.

 

[indefactorX]

What brand of window weld do i need to look for, i want to do this this weekend

what brand, what type, what do i need to look for etc
and where can i get it?

 

[Coal_forge]

AP Parts Home - Solid/Stiffened Engine Mounts
auto zone
&
lmost any place that sell car parts, tool, and consumables.

 

[Erikgsi]

ive never seen window weld in an autozone.